Thread: Crushgrind Insert Rebates

G'day Neil ,
I am also toying around with with the same idea but in resin. On Crushgrind's website under '' Assembly'' they advise to grind of the lugs on the top and bottom mechanism. Have a look here.
Cheers Bruce.

Wood N Workshop

I find it a lot easier to clean of the lugs and just glue the mechanism into place.

If you are slightly out with the position of the lug recess the mechanism will rattle in the mill. Or wont go in at all.

You had me all excited for a minute Neil, I thought Jim was offering cash rebates on crush grind systems .

Yeah, right.

Thanks for the ideas

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

I find it a lot easier to clean of the lugs and just glue the mechanism into place.

If you are slightly out with the position of the lug recess the mechanism will rattle in the mill. Or wont go in at all.

I do glue them in, but I have had customers push the base out when they put the lid back on, breaking the glue joint. Even epoxy has trouble bonding with the plastic surround, but I have only even used minimal amounts, perhaps I should be using more.

I'd be surprised if the rattle, they are usually pretty tight going in, I often have to sand the side lugs off to make them fit.

I just want to ensure they don't push out as I have had quite a few requests from coffee shops recently (I'm doing a separate post on them as they are unusual ).

Before you assemble them make sure the top goes on easy, if it is too firm a fit then you may push the base out if not glued in properly.

The little clip around the top can be a bit snug at time so pushing the top on and of a few times before assembly helps ease it in better, if not then a small file helps.

You want the top to be snug enough that it holds on but just loose enough that a firm push is all that is needed to push them together.

I make sure the glue gets a good coverage around the whole mill but not too much that you get glue in the mechanism.

Hi dai sensei,
The way I cut the rebate for the crush Grind is a Sorby RS 200KT multi-tip, I have a worn cutter that I turn around and use the square end that I sharpened like a scraper. The tool sits flat on the tool rest and with the cutter extended the correct depth it cuts level with end of tool. Just slide in with the cutter rubbing slightly along the side until it hits the bottom (or top) of the 38mm hole and slide to the left. I hope this makes sense. I have also seen an allen key glued into a handle and the short end ground down to the correct length, This is handy to do the rebate in the top.


Barry

G'day Neil, I use a modified skew chisel for my rebates. A bit of masking tape to indicate correct depth, works like a charm .

Attachment 144327

Grumpy John, I think the truth is now out.

This is what you do with skew chisels when they are misbehaving, isn't it???

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

Before you assemble them make sure the top goes on easy, if it is too firm a fit then you may push the base out if not glued in properly.

The little clip around the top can be a bit snug at time so pushing the top on and of a few times before assembly helps ease it in better, if not then a small file helps.

You want the top to be snug enough that it holds on but just loose enough that a firm push is all that is needed to push them together.

I make sure the glue gets a good coverage around the whole mill but not too much that you get glue in the mechanism.

Yeh, I've had to revert to a file or sandpaper the make the top guide slide easier. I will use more glue on the inserts, but as you say, too much can be a problem.

Originally Posted by Bazza

Hi dai sensei,
The way I cut the rebate for the crush Grind is a Sorby RS 200KT multi-tip......Barry

Thanks Barry. I have a similar tool from McJing that would work at the base with a smaller bit, but the toll is too big for the top one in the 22mm hole.

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

G'day Neil, I use a modified skew chisel for my rebates. A bit of masking tape to indicate correct depth, works like a charm .

Good idea John. I was hoping there was something made to suit I could buy, but butchering an old chisel may be the way to go. I'll keep my eye out at the garage sales for something suitable.

Gooday Neil. Why not get a concrete nail welded at right angles to a piece of bar?

Shape it any way you like.

Now that's simple and would work

I took 's idea a bit further. I started with a 8.8 1/2x5" bolt, a concrete nail and a grub screw, then went to see John (Gawdelpus) and his metal lathe . Not long after, he had turned the head down, stripped the thread to form a tennon (to go into a handle), and a tapped hole at the end for the grub screw - thanks mate.

I sharpened the nail to a negative raked scraper shape (ie simple wedge ) and cut it to 20mm long (to fit into the 22mm hole at the top of the pepper grinder). The grub screw holds the nail, so I can vary the cutting depth, and replace it when I need to. We gave it a quick trial without a handle, works a treat.

Now just have to finish the handle tomorrow.