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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    24

    Post Deep boring with a forstner bit

    I need some help with deep boring. I wanted to do some long thin vases so I bought an extension piece for a drill chuck and started to practice. I have so far only used a forstner bit on it but I seem to be having trouble with overheating. As I bore, the bit produces shavings similar to that produced by a pencil sharpener, except these are smouldering and accompanied by billows of smoke.

    To date I have only tried boring into end grain. I have tried different speeds with the same effect.

    Any suggestions?

    Regards

    Jacko

    [This message has been edited by MJ (edited 26 February 2001).]

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 1999
    Location
    Bredbo, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    86

    Lightbulb

    G'day jacko
    You would be better off with a saw tooth bit for deeper holes. You still get a nice clean hole but the saw teeth clear the waste quicker and keep the bit cooler. They can still over heat on deep holes so you have to take it steady. Don't go too deep before clearing the rubbish out and make sure the bit is sharp. The saw tooth bits look just like a forstner but with teeth instead of a full ring around the outer edge. Hope this helps. You could also try a spde bit they aren't as clean or as accurate. Also, don't spin too fast.
    happy drilling
    Shaun

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,550

    Post

    When I use Forstner bits for normal drilling, as soon as they warm up, wipe some candle wax on the outside of the bit. This cuts down on friction and stops the wood and bit getting too hot. For what you're doing, you'll probably have to do it several times for each hole.

    cheers,
    Alex
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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    shepherdsville,ky. usa
    Posts
    15

    Talking

    try an auger wood bit it will be clean and will remove waste a lot faster these bits work best at low low speeds years ago thats all carpenters had to bore holes with
    good luck

    kenny
    kenny

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Post

    Gooday.

    Have to agree with Kenny on this one.

    Make sure that the auger you use is suitable for power drilling. If it has the screw thread end, grind it to a point.

    It also helps if you can do it on a drill press, but there aren't many around that can drill more than 75 mm deep.



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    Ian () Robertson
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  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    74
    Posts
    12,208

    Talking

    Might find the best and most acurate of all is a shell auger. However it might not be the easiest to find. They look a bit like a woodturning gouge and cut quickly, cleanly and acurately through end grain.

    Unfortunately I have no idea where you might be able to get one.

    With both the forstner and sawtooth bits it is imperative that they are really sharp. You will probably find that the cheaper ones you buy in a set from Carba Tec and others will not stand up to too much deep end grain boring. However the Stubi and other top shelf ones will probably make reasonably short work of the job.

    Just my 2 bobs worth.

    Cheers - Neil
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  8. #7

    Cool

    As Neil says the shell auger is the way to go, but another way is to start the hole with the size forstner you need , to a depth of about 10mm. Then with the largest twist drill you have , drill almost to the depth you need. Then bore with forstner bit . Also if you have compressed air in your shop , use this while cutting , to remove waste and cool the cutter. Forstner bits are great for cutting across the grain but into end grain , they are not too efficient.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Cookeville, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    14

    Post

    Jacko
    I've made a few vases about 8 to 10 inches deep and 3" at the top. I drill to the bottom with a 3/8 inch bit and then hollow the vase with a ring tool attached to the end of a 1/2 inch bar. I believe I could go deeper if I put it on a 3/4 inch bar or made the opening bigger so I could get the tool rest partially inside. John L

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    24

    Post

    Thanks folks, I appreciate the input.

    Jacko

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