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Thread: DIY Skewchigouge grind?
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19th December 2012, 02:02 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Grinding Jig
My thoughts for a grinding jig.
Top sketch: Top view of jig, red is tool clamped between two short boards with V cuts, 2 nails or screws to keep front of tool from moving side to side, sitting on a base.
Middle sketch: Side view, showing relationship to grinding wheel.
Bottom sketch: Showing base with end of tool clamped between two short boards.
To operate, clamp tool in V blocks with a screw on each side and place on base per middle sketch, rig base so that end of tool is resting on top of wheel, slide tool back on base to clear grinder, start grinder and advance tool into wheel and pull back to let cool. Repeat, adjusting base to get desired grind.
Some high speed steels will get microcracks if shocked by dipping in water when hot.
Tool and V block can be removed for inspection and replaced holding the same rotative angle.
A cleat could be put on one or both sides of the base to keep the rear of the tool going straight.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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19th December 2012, 04:53 PM #17Retired
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20th December 2012, 04:40 PM #18Hewer of wood
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Thanks for your considered replies guys.
Let me say that when problem-solving it helps me to talk things through.
The job's done.
I used the Sorby Pro-Edge. Freehanded the flat with #60 and #120 belts. Possible because the platform ends extend past the belt/platen. Took a while to get the hang of it. About 20 mins all up with fairly worn belts. Then I refined the flat on benchstones to #1000. Another 10 mins worth.
Couldn't get a satisfactory bevel/cutting edge freehand so I used the Sorby gouge jig. That needed a flat on the rod top that mentioned and getting that was the trickiest part of the exercise. Can see why the Yanks go for 'pocket' jigs. Unlike Jon Siegel who looks to have about a 45 degree bevel angle on his I went for about 35. That's what I use to roll a bead with a detail gouge.
Now the thing just needs to go into a handle so a play with it can be had.Cheers, Ern
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20th December 2012, 09:25 PM #19
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21st December 2012, 01:52 PM #20Hewer of wood
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Why is that Neil?
I recall the claims made for it, that it could do a shape that no other jig could do.
...
Well I crammed the Skewchigouge into a modular handle and had a play last night. Just as 'proof of concept'.
First impressions and note I'm not much of a spindle turner ...
1. It's easier to do a nicely shaped and esp. deep cove cp. a 3/8" (UK measurement) spindle gouge (and this is the same diam. rod). I rolled the tool as you would a spindle gouge. But the finish wasn't good so the bevel got a hone with a fine then extra-fine diamond paddle. Then I did a cove as I gather you would use a Sorby Spindlemaster (ie. face up all the way) and the shape and finish were good.
2. Beads: not so hot but that applies to my use of a skew as well. I do better as noted with a detail gouge, or a B&P tool. Yeah, this is just a matter of practice.
3. V cuts and facing-off end grain to square: I'd take a skew to these tasks anytime.
Upshot: this kind of tool may have a place in your kit. Jon Siegel was right.
I may increase the bevel angle on this to around 45º and see how it performs.Cheers, Ern
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21st December 2012, 06:51 PM #21
The Heli-Grind was the only jig (that I knew about) that provided anything other than a straight across gouge grind back when I bought it. It also came with an adjustable platform and skew jig. It was designed particularly for the P&Ns tools which I mostly had at the time, and worked OK with their U flute gouges.
Since moving mostly to V flutes and swept back wings I have been using the 'pivoting' style of jig (as Mike Darlow calls them).
I still use the Heli-Grind platform for scraper tips and spindle roughing gouges, the skew jig for the odd occasion when I use a skew, and it does a nice job on the one gouge that I use with a straight across grind.
So, not my main jig any more, but still too useful to give away to , sorry mate!Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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21st December 2012, 07:00 PM #22Retired
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21st December 2012, 09:32 PM #23
This thread has given me an idea as to what to do with a piece of HSS rod I have. I think that I will soon have a small skrewedup gouge, or what ever the hell you call it!!
I have already made a round skew and a diamond point tool, so a skrewchi thingy will make a nice trio to try me-thinks? Even if I don't like the thing the rod was only a couple of U.K. beer tokens..My ambition is to grow old disgracefully. So far my ywife recons that I'm doing quite well! John.
http://johnamandiers.wixsite.com/johns-w-o-w-1
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22nd December 2012, 02:58 AM #24GOLD MEMBER
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I have a bunch of rods salvaged from Xerox machines and printers that I grind and play with when I see some great and wondrous new tool advertised.
These are high carbon steel, but for testing and shaving off the last bit before sanding they work fine.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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