Thread: DIY Skewchigouge grind?

Originally Posted by wood hacker

I may have one sitting unused in a drawer in the workshop. Will have a ferret tonight and let you know.

cheers
WH

Thank you.

Thanks for your considered replies guys.

Let me say that when problem-solving it helps me to talk things through.

The job's done.

I used the Sorby Pro-Edge. Freehanded the flat with #60 and #120 belts. Possible because the platform ends extend past the belt/platen. Took a while to get the hang of it. About 20 mins all up with fairly worn belts. Then I refined the flat on benchstones to #1000. Another 10 mins worth.

Couldn't get a satisfactory bevel/cutting edge freehand so I used the Sorby gouge jig. That needed a flat on the rod top that mentioned and getting that was the trickiest part of the exercise. Can see why the Yanks go for 'pocket' jigs. Unlike Jon Siegel who looks to have about a 45 degree bevel angle on his I went for about 35. That's what I use to roll a bead with a detail gouge.

Now the thing just needs to go into a handle so a play with it can be had.

Originally Posted by rsser

Geez Mt, you've got a Heligrind! That makes you and that I know of.

Make that 3, not that I use it very often nowadays.

Why is that Neil?

I recall the claims made for it, that it could do a shape that no other jig could do.

...

Well I crammed the Skewchigouge into a modular handle and had a play last night. Just as 'proof of concept'.

First impressions and note I'm not much of a spindle turner ...

1. It's easier to do a nicely shaped and esp. deep cove cp. a 3/8" (UK measurement) spindle gouge (and this is the same diam. rod). I rolled the tool as you would a spindle gouge. But the finish wasn't good so the bevel got a hone with a fine then extra-fine diamond paddle. Then I did a cove as I gather you would use a Sorby Spindlemaster (ie. face up all the way) and the shape and finish were good.

2. Beads: not so hot but that applies to my use of a skew as well. I do better as noted with a detail gouge, or a B&P tool. Yeah, this is just a matter of practice.

3. V cuts and facing-off end grain to square: I'd take a skew to these tasks anytime.

Upshot: this kind of tool may have a place in your kit. Jon Siegel was right.

I may increase the bevel angle on this to around 45º and see how it performs.

Originally Posted by rsser

Why is that Neil?

I recall the claims made for it, that it could do a shape that no other jig could do.

The Heli-Grind was the only jig (that I knew about) that provided anything other than a straight across gouge grind back when I bought it. It also came with an adjustable platform and skew jig. It was designed particularly for the P&Ns tools which I mostly had at the time, and worked OK with their U flute gouges.

Since moving mostly to V flutes and swept back wings I have been using the 'pivoting' style of jig (as Mike Darlow calls them).

I still use the Heli-Grind platform for scraper tips and spindle roughing gouges, the skew jig for the odd occasion when I use a skew, and it does a nice job on the one gouge that I use with a straight across grind.

So, not my main jig any more, but still too useful to give away to , sorry mate!

Originally Posted by NeilS

So, not my main jig any more, but still too useful to give away to , sorry mate!

This thread has given me an idea as to what to do with a piece of HSS rod I have. I think that I will soon have a small skrewedup gouge, or what ever the hell you call it!!

I have already made a round skew and a diamond point tool, so a skrewchi thingy will make a nice trio to try me-thinks? Even if I don't like the thing the rod was only a couple of U.K. beer tokens..

I have a bunch of rods salvaged from Xerox machines and printers that I grind and play with when I see some great and wondrous new tool advertised.

These are high carbon steel, but for testing and shaving off the last bit before sanding they work fine.