Thread: DIY Skewchigouge grind?

I have contemplated making one of these. Essentially the Sorby spindle master etc are variants of this tool, just out of thinner stock & not round bar. My thoughts were to grind the top "cove" with a cheap 4" grinding wheel and the bevel shape with the Heligrind fingernail jig for spindle gouges.

Geez Mt, you've got a Heligrind! That makes you and that I know of. A jig of historical significance.

Agree about the top face cove but not sure why the bevel needs anything more than a platform. Enlighten me.

The availability of cheap HSS blanks make it easy to try them out.

Originally Posted by rsser

Geez Mt, you've got a Heligrind! That makes you and that I know of. A jig of historical significance.
Agree about the top face cove but not sure why the bevel needs anything more than a platform. Enlighten me.

I still like the Heligrind shape for spindle & detail gouges over other jigs including the Tormek's jigs. Its a shame they aren't still available? Or are they? The Heligrind jig works on the Tormek to btw.

No problems with a platform just depends how good one is at freehand sharpening & the repeatability of the shape you want. I don't think the long section profile of the top face matters all that much as long as it is flat & well ground. From my experience with the Sorby spindle masters and the beautiful finish they create, I would be putting a lot of effort into a good shape and finish on the bevel / fingernail profile & honing the flat as well.

Just preferences I guess as I like the Heligrind bevel & fingernail shape and can see some benefits of that shape as a polished fluteless spindle gouge. The Sorby spindle masters don’t handle Aussie hardwoods very well so a polished fluteless spindle gouge seems to be a reasonable compromise offering the best of both.

I remember the Heligrind claims; got one from a forum member, tried it and passed it on to another a while ago.

...

With a rod freehanding the bevel is no drama.

Doing the top, still open to suggestions/corrections.

Hi All,
I have used one of these for a few years now, & they will cut like a demon.
I made my own from a piece of HSS of JMcJing Steel
10 x 10mm. Although I have a few others as well. One is 80mm. long, & 3 x 3mm. Very useful at times.
I mainly Sharpen on the Flat, but of course the Fingernail Shape has to be redone now & again.
I'm not sure if it was John or Bob Chapman who showed us the Tool in the English Mag. " Woodturning ".
Can't fault the Chinese Steel.
That's my 2sense worth.

Originally Posted by rsser

Geez Mt, you've got a Heligrind! That makes you and that I know of. A jig of historical significance.

Agree about the top face cove but not sure why the bevel needs anything more than a platform. Enlighten me.

Now you know three!!

Unfortunately I don't have the Heligrind. Have the Unijig.

I would like a heligrind though so if any one has one for sale let me know.

Ern, to shape your skewji gouge I would put a flat on it and fit it into your gouge holding jig with a longer extension than usual and lift it straight into the wheel. Grind until you nearly meet the halfway point, then just move it back in the jig a bit and do the same until you are near the tip.

This will leave a series of "coves" that can be ground flat.

Another method would be to hold it in vise and using an angle grinder with a narrow cut off wheel slice the bar in half lengthwise and then shape on the grinder.

Thanks for the advice . Can see either approach working and they're within my capabilities.

When I was younger and stupider I made Oland-type tools by putting a metal grind wheel on the circular saw under a Triton bench to get a flat. Despite PPE it's too risky; you're right in the line of fire.

Jon Siegel has kindly replied to an email request about how he does his:

I grind somewhat less than half way through. I don't have any fancy set-up for doing this, other than a VERY coarse grinding wheel. I use a pocket jig initially to get started, then free-hand I extent the length of the flat out to the tip. Finally I hand hone the top flat, and buff before doing the final grind to the bevel. I do take some off in the final grinding of the bevel, and this removes the inevitable irregularities that occur at the tip.

So that's similar to your approach A.

I guess with the Sorby Pro-Edge and a coarse belt there's the option for approach C (akin to the Triton bodge). Still getting my head around the possibilities of that machine.

]Geez Mt, you've got a Heligrind! That makes you and that I know of. A jig of [historical significance.

I contemplated making one at some time in the past. But for those may consider it worth a go here's the manual

Originally Posted by

Unfortunately I don't have the Heligrind. Have the Unijig.

I would like a heligrind though so if any one has one for sale let me know.

.........................

Now he tells me Donated the one I inherited from the old man to our local club - not that they have used it yet

Bugger.

Originally Posted by

Unfortunately I don't have the Heligrind. Have the Unijig.

I would like a heligrind though so if any one has one for sale let me know.

I may have one sitting unused in a drawer in the workshop. Will have a ferret tonight and let you know.

cheers
WH

Originally Posted by

Unfortunately I don't have the Heligrind. Have the Unijig.

I would like a heligrind though so if any one has one for sale let me know. ....

You dont have one - really! They're just the bee knees for my sharpenng of detail gouges. I guess thats what I have learned to use & they work very well.