Thread: El Cheapo Lathe - Refurbishment

One more disaster I forgot to mention, the tool rest had frozen. In trying to free it I broke both sides off the rest and had to use a large hydraulic press to push the post out of its housing.

I welded up the rest but plan to replace it in the future.

The live centre also had died, but although I was planning on buying a replacement, I twigged that I had a live centre from another lathe. The only problem was it had a parallel shaft not a MT2.

So I stuck it in the drill chuck I had previously purchased. Problem solved, although I will get a dedicated MT2 live centre next time I feel flushed with money .

This pic shows the welded (rather poorly) tool rest and the live centre held in the Jacobs chuck:

Lathe rebuild 006.jpg

Regards
Paul

Love the stand Paul. I noticed that in the other thread yesterday.

Congratulation Paul, Nice restoration, no way it's going to move with those legs.
Now we'll wait to see some Masterpieces come out of it,

Cheers Tony.

Thank you for your comments both Tonys

The irony of my lathe work is that I'm a charlatan in that the only work I ever do is make handles, mostly for turning tools , frequently for chisel handles and occasionally for screwdrivers.

I don't think I've ever turned a bowl .

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

The lathe work now begun and there were several problems there. The first I knew about. The chuck had seized solid. It took three days of spraying with penetrating fluid and another three of soaking in penetrating fluid to free it up. Then it was dismantled,cleaned and put back together.


Regards
Paul

What fluid did you use? Im trying to free up one now, and I have soaked it in diesel for a week, and used inox liberally and have been working at it on and off for another week or so, but there has been bugger all improvement. I got an elcheapo heat gun that I was going to try next, but soaking it in something appeals to my lazy side.

Originally Posted by DonIncognito

What fluid did you use? Im trying to free up one now, and I have soaked it in diesel for a week, and used inox liberally and have been working at it on and off for another week or so, but there has been bugger all improvement. I got an elcheapo heat gun that I was going to try next, but soaking it in something appeals to my lazy side.

Don

I had an old container of Inox that had lost it's pump. I tipped it into a tin that was only just a larger diametre than the chuck and completely submerged the part. I came back in three days.

I drained it, subjected it to moderate heat a couple of times and gradually was able to remove all of the jaws. Then I put the levers in the chuck that you would normally open and close it with. I think a small amount of "tapping" with a hammer occurred also, but go carefully. Once you get the smallest amount of movement "you're in" and you just have to keep working away at it. The whole chuck will eventually have to be disassembled. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean up the grooves in the chuck.

I was surprised, but very pleasantly pleased, at how well it came up and it operates quite smoothly. I had to make new levers as I had lost the originals. I'll take some pix tomorrow as the new levers are far more robust than the originals.

Regards
Paul

Bushmiller,

If the motor runs well started by pulling on the V-belt, a new capacitor might solve the problem. Take the old one with you to a motor repair shop. Usually under $10. Take a photo or make notes about where it is connected.

Stick the business end of your live center into a can with kerosine or diesel to cover the business end, and let it soak for a week or two. Then beat the daylights out of it with a stick about the diameter of a broom handle. If that makes it move at all, soak and beat it some more. They are usually made with bearings packed with grease, so it may be rusted only around the tight parts.

Very nice stand. I'm sure the lathe just sits there and hums. For those who will be doing big out of balance bowl blanks, an X brace under the bed to keep it stiff side to side would be nice.

My approach to stuck rusted things is soak overnight or longer in white vinegar, tap, tap, tap, with a stick of hard wood or a brass hammer - you want many small shocks to vibrate things loose, then a rinse in very hot water, dry and oil up with light oil and work all moving parts through their full range. Keep adding oil and working until oil running out is reasonable clear and it works freely.

Things too small to fit in vinegar, apply light oil, penetrating oil, kerosine, WD40, automatic transmission fluid, etc., tap, tap, tap, heat with a heat gun or carefully with a propane torch, more oil, more tapping.

As mentioned above, once it moves the slightest bit it will come free. Then keep moving it and adding oil until it is free and oil is reasonably clean.

I REALLY like the stand!

Well done. Now that the bug has returned - next step - a first bowl, eh. Say from mango. Drillit.

Originally Posted by Paul39

Bushmiller,

If the motor runs well started by pulling on the V-belt, a new capacitor might solve the problem. Take the old one with you to a motor repair shop. Usually under $10. Take a photo or make notes about where it is connected.

Stick the business end of your live center into a can with kerosine or diesel to cover the business end, and let it soak for a week or two. Then beat the daylights out of it with a stick about the diameter of a broom handle. If that makes it move at all, soak and beat it some more. They are usually made with bearings packed with grease, so it may be rusted only around the tight parts.


I REALLY like the stand!

Paul

I will have a look at the capacitor as although swapping motors has some appeal (twice the grunt) the logistics of the conversion is a little daunting as the motor spindle sizes are different but not by much. It cuts down on the options.

The live centre is not so much dead as terminally ill in that the centre turns but the bearings are shot. I had initially thought I would be able to replace them, but a knowledgeable colleague at work and I failed miserably to get it apart and damaged the cone in the process.

So I am resigned to go with what I have for the moment and replace it when I get the urge.

The stand I must have made with a slightly lean mix of concrete as it had weathered a little and some of the edges were a little crumbly. They didn't like being manhandled onto a trailer for transportation. There is one good face on each leg and ironically they face either into a wall or a door that is habitually left open . However, they still have the required mass even if they do look a bit weathered.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Drillit

Well done. Now that the bug has returned - next step - a first bowl, eh. Say from mango. Drillit.

Drillit

You never know, but I have to say that bowl turning is a long way down the list of projects. However I admire the beautiful bowls that others turn.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Paul

I will have a look at the capacitor as although swapping motors has some appeal (twice the grunt) the logistics of the conversion is a little daunting as the motor spindle sizes are different but not by much. It cuts down on the options.

The live centre is not so much dead as terminally ill in that the centre turns but the bearings are shot. I had initially thought I would be able to replace them, but a knowledgeable colleague at work and I failed miserably to get it apart and damaged the cone in the process.

So I am resigned to go with what I have for the moment and replace it when I get the urge.

The stand I must have made with a slightly lean mix of concrete as it had weathered a little and some of the edges were a little crumbly. They didn't like being manhandled onto a trailer for transportation. There is one good face on each leg and ironically they face either into a wall or a door that is habitually left open . However, they still have the required mass even if they do look a bit weathered.

Regards
Paul

If your bigger motor has a larger shaft than the motor pulley, you could take the new motor and the existing motor pulley to an engineer and have it bored out to fit.

If the bigger motor shaft is smaller than the hole in the motor pulley, it could be shimmed with beer can stock, which cuts nicely with ordinary household scissors. Not your significant other's sewing scissors.

If the Morse taper on your dead live center fits your headstock spindle, you could tidy up the cone with a file and sandpaper and make a dead center, or grind some notches in it and have another drive center.

As to rough parts on your lathe stand, I would not even have bothered to paint it. I doubt anyone who sees it would comment, and if they do, you could tell them you would accept a gift of a Vicmarc or Stubby.

If the roughness keeps you awake at night, using a mixture of 1/2 Portland cement, and 1/2 sand, and a broken piece of concrete block as a tool, put some of the mixture on the tool and rub on the rough places and on the corners to round them a bit. It will make a nice sand finish texture. After it sets and before it drys, wrap with old rags, newspapers, or cardboard and keep wet for a week for maximum strength and bonding. A couple days would really do.

There might be a pail of concrete patch sold for patching shallow holes that would do the same as the Portland cement and sand.

This works best on bare concrete, but you would probably wear off enough paint to get a good bond.

Originally Posted by Paul39

Bushmiller,

Stick the business end of your live center into a can with kerosine or diesel to cover the business end, and let it soak for a week or two. Then beat the daylights out of it with a stick about the diameter of a broom handle. If that makes it move at all, soak and beat it some more. They are usually made with bearings packed with grease, so it may be rusted only around the tight parts.

What a brutal suggestion!!! However, as long as it works.......

Great WIP Paul!! Wonderfully instructive post all round!!

Originally Posted by Paul39

If your bigger motor has a larger shaft than the motor pulley, you could take the new motor and the existing motor pulley to an engineer and have it bored out to fit.

If the bigger motor shaft is smaller than the hole in the motor pulley, it could be shimmed with beer can stock, which cuts nicely with ordinary household scissors. Not your significant other's sewing scissors.

If the Morse taper on your dead live center fits your headstock spindle, you could tidy up the cone with a file and sandpaper and make a dead center, or grind some notches in it and have another drive center.

As to rough parts on your lathe stand, I would not even have bothered to paint it. I doubt anyone who sees it would comment, and if they do, you could tell them you would accept a gift of a Vicmarc or Stubby.

If the roughness keeps you awake at night, using a mixture of 1/2 Portland cement, and 1/2 sand, and a broken piece of concrete block as a tool, put some of the mixture on the tool and rub on the rough places and on the corners to round them a bit. It will make a nice sand finish texture. After it sets and before it drys, wrap with old rags, newspapers, or cardboard and keep wet for a week for maximum strength and bonding. A couple days would really do.

There might be a pail of concrete patch sold for patching shallow holes that would do the same as the Portland cement and sand.

This works best on bare concrete, but you would probably wear off enough paint to get a good bond.

Paul

You've set me thinking. Thanks a lot! As if I don't have enough to do .

The live centre is history, but the motor.. I just had a look and the motor shaft sizes are similar to the point that I might be able to take the difference down with some emery cloth while the motor spins.

Alternatively I could ream the pulley. One issue is that the motor will spin the wrong way, but examination of a sticker on the side of the motors states that rotation can be reversed by swapping two wires around, but this is internal and not on the power supply. Another issue is the motor is four pole so I will have to check the speed on the original.

I also have a three phase motor, which would be enough to place the machine and me into orbit, but I would have to purchase a VFD to do that. About $150, which is a pittance, but this is a budget job for a machine only occasionally used.

No, I am not too troubled by the rough concrete. I can live with it and not even dream excessively (about the concrete that is.)

Thanks for the suggestions.

Regards
Paul

The "new" levers to tighten up the chuck. One was made from a bit of bar I had knocking around and the one with the knurled handle was an old ratchet handle from a socket set. I throw little away!

I don't have a metal lathe so they were just ground roughly on my bench grinder. They only have to fit the holes with no rotation involved unless I forget to remove them before I switch on the lathe . They are quite a bit more robust than the originals and longer too so even I with my modest sized mitts I can get a significant amount of leverage onto the chuck.

lathe refurb 002.jpglathe refurb 001.jpg

This is the "dead" (terminally ill, if you prefer) "live" centre.

lathe refurb 003.jpg


Regards
Paul