Thread: fence post_bottle shape

I would put a longer neck on it with a smaller base. Maybe thinner neck with more curve into the square. I drill a hole in the top for dried flowers or weeds. We call them "weed pots" here.

Keep picking up ratty looking timber and play with the shapes. I think they are fun to make, and they do sell. Some shapes below:

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...k1.zteooL-bIss

https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/wire...s-34319563.jpg

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&....0.g2ULdyu_wv8

Thanks Paul, lots of interesting stuff on that first link. Phil

Paul,

Thanks for the comments

hole not drilled yet, I'll do it before I have another play
I'm thinking to reduce the base by about a 3rd and slim the neck down a bit

on another question do people generally use a finish on the weathered bottom or leave it natural?
I'm thinking of using either wop or danish oil or aussie oil on the piece generally

reduce the base and continue the curve all the way to the bottom, leaving the rustic section as a panel on all 4 sides.
I like weed pots. Add a finish. Fence posts have nice timber. The weathered section shouldn't change colour too much.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Paul,

on another question do people generally use a finish on the weathered bottom or leave it natural?
I'm thinking of using either wop or danish oil or aussie oil on the piece generally

I brush the crud out of the fissures of the rough part with a paint brush and then work in Tung Oil, Danish Oil, or Polyurethane Varnish with a paint brush on the rough part. I let it sit for 5 - 10 minutes then wrap and tape newspaper or a rag around it and run the lathe for a minute to sling out all the excess.

I then apply any of the above finishes to the smooth part with a rag while the lathe is running, let it spin a minute or two, apply more with a barely moist rag, let dry overnight. Next day run lathe and polish with an old athletic sock. If the finish suits, stop there. If not, more of the above.

After the outside is done I pour some of the finish into the hole, put my finger over the opening and invert and shake for a minute, then pour out the excess and carefully wipe the lip and down inside a bit. Let dry standing up.

I usually start my weed pots between centers and do all or almost all of the outside, then turn a spigot on the bottom and grab with a chuck. I do the final turning, drill the hole with a drill chuck in the tailstock, do final turning and sanding on the hole, and outside finishing.

I then run a cone tailstock center gently into the hole and cut the piece nearly off the spigot with a parting tool leaving about 13mm. I then loosen the tail center just a couple mm and cut through the last 13mm with a coping saw or hack saw, taking a couple strokes, rotate, a couple strokes, etc.

To finish the bottom, I have disks that are held in the lathe chuck with sandpaper mounted with double sided carpet tape. The disk is about 6mm smaller than the round sandpaper, I run the bottom of the weed pot across the edge of the sanding disk, turn the pot and repeat until the bottom is concave and smooth. I then rub the bottom on a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface until there is a little ring around the bottom for a stable surface.

I then hand rub finish on the bottom when I do the inside and top. I lay the pot on its side to dry on a folded up towel. When dry I sign and number the bottom in the concave area, let dry and then wipe on a bit of finish to protect .

thanks Paul

pretty much how I was going to do it - I like the newspaper idea and will be adopting it I think.

I'll get back to it when I get over this blasted flu