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21st January 2014, 12:04 PM #16Retired
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21st January 2014 12:04 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st January 2014, 01:22 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Good one - Thanks
Thanks ,
Thats a handy tip about coming in below centre with the hacksaw blade tool.
Was trying a few things this morning and making a right mess.
Will have another crack this evening.
Bill
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21st January 2014, 09:28 PM #18
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21st January 2014, 09:52 PM #19Retired
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I saw both A and C in YouTube videos. Do you think I can find them now!
With A, they had form cutters almost exactly the same as used on a spindle moulder. An arm held a block of wood, spun it up and in went another arm with the rotating moulder. Both seed to be oposing spinning at 20k rpm so the forces must have been amazing. Anyway, a millionth of a second and it was spat out and another one on.
Some dude just bands awed off the ends and used a belt like sander to tidy it up. Toss it into a box. They didn't show this dudes face though....it probably looked miserable.
With B, they had a pantoarm(?) that read off a blank with a bit on the end. Did 99% and a guy touched it up with sandpaper and sprayed it while on the lathe. Must have been NC, for about 3 seconds later he pulled it off and put it on a pile
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21st January 2014, 10:58 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jul 2001
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- South Australia
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- 650
I have a number of these tools from 3mm to 10mm.
I found a 8mm P&N spindle gouge, ground like Jim described, is ideal for scraping a ring foot on a bowl or platter.
My method to do this is gentle pressure while raising and lowering the handle,
This is done a number of times, right on the centre line of the diameter.
This gentle action is sort of like going over centre and back again.
Doing it this way seems to put less pressure on the wood, resulting in less tear out.
There is very little pressure on the tool, in fact none of my bead cutters has a handle on them.
If you are going to try this the tool rest should be as close as possible to the work.
Keep in mind that this is being used on bottom of the foot, which is usually side grain.
I usually turn a number beads on the base, and with a parting tool, recess any areas between the beads.
The outside or largest bead should be proud of the rest of the foot so that the piece sits on this bead to prevent rocking.
Of course as Jim said they also work well on between centre work. better in harder wood of course.
With my typing speed it would have been quicker to go and take some photos.
If I catch up with Brendan maybe he could video the process?
Cheers
TimSome days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.
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21st January 2014, 11:30 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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- Nov 2010
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- Gippsland Victoria
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- 706
Knight
Started considering the knights today
found this thread - good idea make some sort of mushroom and cut away most of the cap.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/tur...t-rough-25927/
and this page
http://www.chessspy.com/articles/Lat...%20Knights.pdf - bottom of 2nd page
and have seen some great photos of carved knights but cannot find the best one again, have trawled through my history, no luck.
Bill
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22nd January 2014, 04:10 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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- Mt Waverley Vic 3149
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22nd January 2014, 04:33 PM #23Hewer of wood
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- Jan 2002
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- Melbourne, Aus.
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Good vid .
FWIW with a formed beading tool in scraping presentation I've found that where possible a little side to side swing on the end of the handle as you go in leaves a cleaner finish. Will leave it up to the theorists to explain why that might be.Cheers, Ern
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22nd January 2014, 10:30 PM #24Hewer of wood
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Just out of interest I got out the Sorby fluted parting tool in the kit.
IMO there's not enough curve in the 'flute' to make a decent bead. Such flute as there is, is not centred. That means there's a shoulder on one side. That could be dealt with by lapping; in fact the milling marks on both sides are gross and need work in order to cut cleanly as is claimed for this design in parting mode.
Mostly I've found Sorbys to be well finished.Cheers, Ern
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22nd January 2014, 10:54 PM #25Retired
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- May 1999
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I was being tactful about the Sorby.
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27th January 2014, 06:44 AM #26
I made my own 3mm fluted parting tool with a bit of 3mm HSS and a diamond needle file. I've never tried it on very large turnings, but for small things like lace bobbing it works very well.
Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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