Thread: Glues

Depends on how much time you have - I have used hot melt glue with great success and is quite quick, but if you have time I'd recommend tightbond (1,2 or 3) as the glue will be stronger than the timber.....if using tightbond make sure both surfaces marry up with each other nicely.

P.s. 'little thingy' is a tenon

(Others with much more experience will hopefully chime in with their ideas)
Cheers
Gab

WHS [emoji115]
But pay particular attention to the two surfaces being smooth and flat.

Cheers Matt


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Hot melt glue is good if you are in a hurry, otherwise I use aquadhere. Make sure the surfaces match well.

Jim

To help getting the tenon off, try a paper joint. Apply the glue to both surfaces and put a sheet of paper between the two surfaces. To get it apart, use a scraper or similar on the paper joint.
Kryn

If you are going down the paper joint route, use good quality copy paper, not flimsy newspaper . . .

I hotmelt a tennon on to almost every bowl I make .
Make the mating surface of the tennon ie the side the glue will go on , slightly concave .Turn your HM glue on about 5 minutes before you use it to ensure the glue is good and hot .Put the tennon in the microwave oven for 30 seconds , quickly put the glue on and align on to the bottom of your bowl using your live centre cone . when the oozed out glue has gone hard , about 5 minutes ,recut the angle on the tennon to ensure it is running true .
Ted

I would suggest the cheapest safe solution is to use something like Selleys Adquadhere Exterior.

If you follow the link, click on the information link, scroll down and read “How to use this product”, then scroll down further to read, “Handy Tips”.
Selleys Aquadhere Exterior - Water Based Construction Adhesive | Selleys Australia

This product is very good and if you purchase the 250ml size, quite affordable. Unless you are going to do squillions of turning where you will need to glue up, then this 250ml size will last you for at least a year, if not longer.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-...esive_p1710228

I would suggest you carefully read the Selleys information, especially about softwoods. In general, most instructions for wood adhesives (glue) suggest you apply their adhesive on one side only. With hardwoods, that is usually correct, however, with softwoods, most that I have seen, suggest (or recommend) you coat both surfaces with their adhesive.

Selleys, in this case, recommend you apply their Adquadhere Exterior to both sides, allow the adhesive to dry and be absorbed into the wood, then apply another coat to one side and make contact. My experience of doing just that, is that it really works well.

When woodturning there are some enormous forces at work, if you make a catch with a glue-up held piece, my personal experience is that things can start flying.

As you get further along the track with woodturning, you may wish to think about faceplate rings. These are speedy, safe and very easy to use. Depending upon the thickness and weight of the material you are wishing to turn, you can size the length of screws accordingly. Faceplate rings are available for most chucks, these are the Vicmarc faceplate rings for their chucks.
https://vicmarc.com/index.php?option...=17&Itemid=449

I mostly use softwood for these kinds of turning glue-ups, usually pine floorboards as I have a plentiful supply and it works a treat. In the picture under the drill, you can see the pine floorboard, which started out life about 15mm thick.

By the time I have used a hand plane to flatten the curve, attach a faceplate ring, then turn the other side flat on the lathe, it usually ends up somewhere around 11-12mm thick. The faceplate ring is what the drill press vice is holding the workpiece with, another advantage of these metal rings.

The finished product is a fishing reel, which I finished yesterday; a picture of it so you can see the work evolution.

As Matt (Simplicity) said, really make sure your surfaces are as flat as you can make them. I cannot stress this enough, flat surface to flat surface makes for a very strong bond; preparation is everything.

Mick.

Fishing_Reel_004_web.jpg Fishing_Reel_002_web.jpg Fishing_Reel_003_web.jpg

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

To help getting the tenon off, try a paper joint.

I would not recommend using a "paper" joint. I have in the past lost 3 weeks preparations, because a "paper" joint failed. I would use a four litre pot of external aquadhere in about six months on segmented projects. Exterior aquadhere is more than adequate for use as a "glue" chuck. Try this, fix a waste block 35mm thick, to a face plate, turn a recess in the waste block to accomodate the tenon and glue the two together in the lathe. If you are not using a tenon, turn a recess to leave a rim about 12mm wide to glue to the bottom of the project, but no paper. To separate, use a parting tool to make a recess at the joint but in the waste block. Finish the cut with a hand saw. I have been using this system for a long time to make my prize winning pieces, so my comments are based on a lot of practical hands on experience.

Jim

Mick.

Fishing_Reel_004_web.jpg Fishing_Reel_002_web.jpg Fishing_Reel_003_web.jpg[/QUOTE]

not hijacking the thread, but that a nice hand reel there Mick.

Benny, I would go with Titebond, ensure both surfaces are super smooth, unlike some glues where they tell you to 'scuff the surface for better adhesion', titebond needs the smoothest possible surface to work. and although it sets in 30min, i'd follow the instructions (longer is better) and leave clamped for atleast 24hrs.

I 1st learmt woodturning in homeschool. Like Kryn said, a paper joint with PVA was quite common for faceplate work.

Man havent done a paper joint in years

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Man havent done a paper joint in years

I completely misread that sentence

Thanks all for the help and info, very useful.