Thread: Helmet Safety and Crepe Cleaning Block

Originally Posted by WaggaSteve

1 Wear you masks- had a piece of wood let go at fairly high speed on Saturday, bounce off my light and clip me on the arm on the way past. Did not break the bone but it was a near thing and doctor is impressed at how quickly the large wound is healing. I am still not sure if it bounced off my mask which I had put on only a few moments before!!! Which begs the question: appreciate advice on advantages vs disadvantages on plastic vs metal mesh shields.
2: Anyone know a source of crepe cleaning block or equivalent to prolong my sand papers/belts

Steve

Wow..... lucky you had your face mask on!
The cleaning block i have is like a dense foam block
It the sort that comes as packaging In cartons of various
Items,,, not sure If you can buy them or not?

Originally Posted by WaggaSteve

1 Wear your masks- had a piece of wood let go at fairly high speed on Saturday, bounce off my light and clip me on the arm on the way past. Did not break the bone but it was a near thing and doctor is impressed at how quickly the large wound is healing. I am still not sure if it bounced off my mask which I had put on only a few moments before!!! Which begs the question: appreciate advice on advantages vs disadvantages on plastic vs metal mesh shields.

Metal mesh is darker than plastic.
Plastic shields are available in 3D which is stronger than 2D and this also means they wrap around under the chin - most metal mesh is only 2D.
Your shield should not be plastic it should be polycarbonate - same as on MC helmets.
Plastic can fog - I usually have no problem with mine
Plastic can scratch - replace the shield.

2: Anyone know a source of crepe cleaning block or equivalent to prolong my sand papers/belts

PVC pipe does a fair job of cleaning belts - I use grey sparkies pipe and it seems to work OK.

Steve, I use the Honeywell Bionic, full face shield. Price about $45

Another good option is the Armadillo https://www.protectoralsafe.com.au/s...illo/307119711 . "Certified to AS/NZS 1337.1:2010 – High impact protection," it offers pretty good brow protection as well.

Hope you heal fast & thank you for sharing your experience.

anywhere that sells abrasives should have cleaning blocks

I use the foam sole from worn out walking shoes for cleaning sandpaper. I think the crepe blocks sold as cleaners are the same as the soles on Clark's desert boots.

I carefully inspect any blank I put on the lathe and if it looks the least bit iffy I put a few wraps of tape around at one or more places.

Roughing at a lower speed may expose cracks or looseness that you might not see in a hacked out blank with out as much risk of a chunk being thrown out. Most of my blanks are roughed out with a chain saw and ax.

After mounting a blank and turning the lathe by hand a few turns, I stand at the head stock and run the lathe 15 - 30 seconds to see how much vibration ensues and will the blank come out of the lathe.

I then snug up the tail center and / or the chuck and rough out the blank. When the out of balance is cut off I check for flaws, again snug up tail center and / or chuck, go up one step in speed and do the final rough cut or finish.

I developed the above after getting whacked once, and another time a piece came out, broke two florescent tubes, showering me with glass and came down driving glass into my arm.

Not as bad as yours, but it got my attention.

I have a Jet 16/32 drum sander and use the sanding stick that came with it to clean the sanding wrap. I just had a look at the stick but there is not a description on it that describes what it is made up from. The 'Carbatec' site shows 'belt/disc cleaner sticks and I notice the medium stick is only $9.00, so very affordable.

I purchased a sandpaper cleaner from the Sandpaper man, when I was buying a few things. Norton Brand I think, works a charm.

PQ

Steve
Glad you survived without too much damage.
I use a lump of silicone from a cartridge of Silastic that had gone off for cleaning sandpaper.
Ted

Originally Posted by Paul39

I use the foam sole from worn out walking shoes for cleaning sandpaper. I think the crepe blocks sold as cleaners are the same as the soles on Clark's desert boots.

I carefully inspect any blank I put on the lathe and if it looks the least bit iffy I put a few wraps of tape around at one or more places.

Roughing at a lower speed may expose cracks or looseness that you might not see in a hacked out blank with out as much risk of a chunk being thrown out. Most of my blanks are roughed out with a chain saw and ax.

After mounting a blank and turning the lathe by hand a few turns, I stand at the head stock and run the lathe 15 - 30 seconds to see how much vibration ensues and will the blank come out of the lathe.

I then snug up the tail center and / or the chuck and rough out the blank. When the out of balance is cut off I check for flaws, again snug up tail center and / or chuck, go up one step in speed and do the final rough cut or finish.

I developed the above after getting whacked once, and another time a piece came out, broke two florescent tubes, showering me with glass and came down driving glass into my arm.

Not as bad as yours, but it got my attention.

Pretty well do the same as an automatic procedure on a great % of blanks and usually rough at a low speed initially

I use old rubber or plastic thongs to clean the paper on the drum and belt sander, plentiful and really cheap.

Jim