Thread: Help needed

Whew - Todd your going to get a good work-out trying to hollow end-grain Ironbark !!!
With out a dedicated hollowing tool/system you'll be lucky to get more that 100-150mm inside, leverage will be your enemy.As for the chuck - I reckon you'll give up before your chuck does
If you want to give it a go then my advice would be: make sure you have a good solid spiggot that will fit into the jaws of your chuck, make the spiggot only slightly larger in diameter than the size of the chuck jaws when closed - this will give you the best grip.
Use the largest wood bit or forstener bit you have and drill in as far as you can at the slowest speed on the lathe - this will save a lot of hollowing with your gouge!
Make sure your tools are as sharp as they can be.
Make sure the kids are out of earshot so you can swear as often as needed.
Good luck and let's know how you go!
Bruce.

all of the above,If all you have are basic tools then you will have to get some beefier tools to handle hollowing this piece, I would look at the ROBERT SORBY hollowing tool with the interchangeable cutters.

This will assist you no end, .

Jeff

vk4

I would suggest that you get some shark jaws for your chuck, Vicmarc makes them which will give a much better hold than the standard jaws that come with the chuck, make a steady rest for it and some oland type deep hollowing tools.

Peter.

All of the above plus a set of rosaries particularly Sturdees suggestion of the steady.

The cracks are the biggest worry in my opinion.

A steady hand and oodles of patience will be needed as well.

Ok - I have been advised to have a steady - what is a steady and can I buy one? I think the iron bark is heavy and long - I really don't want to have a iron bark adornment - if you know what I mean.

Todd

Hi Todd,
Go on Carrolls Woodcraft Supplies website (usually has a link on this page - just click) than have a look a tools - deep hollowing - and you should see a couple of examples Robert Sorby and Woodcut have one.
If you have second thoughts, that Ironbark could make an ok mallet or tool handle.
Bruce.

Originally Posted by toddbron

Ok - I have been advised to have a steady - what is a steady and can I buy one?..........

If you do a search of the forum for 'steady rest' you should come up with heaps of threads as there has been quite a few members show off their home made rigs over the years. Can be made from steel, ply, MDF or anything else you have on hand with a few roller-skate/blade wheels. Heres one to get you started

Hi Toddbron,

re: the steady ... see the link below;
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/red...ummmmm-124666/

I rescued a peice of redgum from a mates fireplace, only to find out that it was tougher than nails.
Imade myself an oland tool and a steady (aka steady rest); both of these made the job a darn side easier ... although I still had to sharpen the bit regularly.



... ... ...

Hi
Since this is 350mm long ,I would cut it in half and make two smaller vases . Trying to hollow ironbark this deep would be a major undertaking . Better to have two smaller reasonable jobs than one big botch up.
See my Cedar Vase posting today . This is only 2/3 the depth you are aiming for and cedar is much softer than ironbark. My boring bar is 1300mm long and weighs about 2.5kg and I think this depth was about as far as I could go.
Ted

As Turnerted said I would do the same otherwise you will end up all over the shop and pretty worn out lol. Turnerted I seen your vase fantastic love it can I have it? joke!

Todd,

As many of the others have warned, this is not a beginners project. Certainly not one without the right tools for deep hollowing.

My suggestion is to put that piece aside for another day. When you are ready - and that may be two or three years away - re-mount and true the piece and take your turn at deep hollowing. It aint a lot of fun.

Hi Todd,

I'm guessing this is your first hollow form??

If so do yourself a favour and don't attempt this project.

Endgrain hollowing into dry Ironbark is not for the faint hearted.

The piece you have there is full of cracks, when hollowing this piece and the centre is removed, it can disintegrate and you may end up with lots of sharp bits flying around. A good wrapping of duct tape can remove some of this danger.

The end result, if you are successful, will be a vase full of cracks, and seriously, it will look like a vase full of cracks.

There is much too much work involved in this project to start with a crappy piece of wood.

Do your self a favour and for your early attempts with hollow forms, get some sound timber preferably something softer and green. You can always remount it when dry and finish it.

For what it's worth that's my opinion.

Good luck with your turning

Cheers

Tim

Hi Todd,
Tim is pretty well on the mark - don't want to dent your enthusiasm but you want a better lump of wood. Try on the wood market in this forum and see if you can do a swap of some of the beaut inland timbers you would have access to (always,always HARD) for some of the softer costal timbers. If I had anything softer, I would send it up. Like you, all my timber is Acacia or something even harder!. I turned my first piece of Camphor Laurel the other week and I liked it!!! Maybe something like C.L., Cedar/s any of the Grevillias ie Silky Oak, N.G. Rosewood. Give it a try - it will only cost you $12 for 3gk postage Aust wide and you might get a lot of fun. Don't forget River Redgum - you'll have plenty in the dry creek beds
There might be someone here that might like to help or donate, these boys and girls are pretty good that way. Ask and you may recieve!!
Bruce.

Todd I read this thread and then had dinner and a think. My advice, put it on a shelf in front of the lathe and contemplate it for a while. In the meantime get some experience end grain turning on smaller and easier projects and get/make the tools you need. I have a few projects staring at me and the time spent in contemplation is not wasted, believe me.