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5th March 2013, 10:26 AM #1Senior Member
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homemade large scraper for hollowing
well im starting to do some deep hollowing and need something thats not going to cost an arm or a leg. been looking on youtube and seen that some people have made some homemade ones. Was thinking of buying some steal about 400mm long about 10mm thick and putthing a nice edge on it, but have no idea what kinda steal to buy or if there is anything special i have to do to the end. was thinking or a round nose scraper, so any suggestions would be nice
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5th March 2013, 11:07 AM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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you could shape an old file, they good scrapers and can be found cheap at a market.
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5th March 2013, 12:01 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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A high speed steel planer blade would be perfect. A set that has been resharpened to the limit would be cheap. Check around at a lumber yard that does milling.
I bought a set of 4 high speed steel, 3/8 X 1 1/2 X 12 inches at auction for $15.00 US.
Files do work but can snap off and the bits go sailing around. You also need to grind off the serrations as they mark the tool rest.
An engineers supply might order a piece of high speed steel the size you want.
Water or oil hardening carbon steel works, but comes unhardened and you would have to do that yourself or have it one.
A leaf car spring will work. Carbon steel & will need frequent sharpening.
An ugly one and prone to vibration is a rotary lawn mower blade. It will need frequent resharpening. Dull the sides on the grinder and wrap some tape around the end you hold on to.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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5th March 2013, 12:46 PM #4
Mat
Good advice from Paul39
Your cheapest option of all is an old leaf spring off a vehicle, but you have to anneal the steel first (heat in a fire and allow to cool in the fire slowly as it dies down). A vehicle wreckers would be a good source and trucks have thicker leaf springs.
Annealing enables you to flatten the leaf by hitting with a hammer and then grinding your required shape.
Next step is heat treating by bringing to cherry red in a forge or with an oxy set (probably a heating head is best for a larger object, although for smaller items a #15 cutting tip will suffice). It is quenched in oil or water.
Object is then polished up (so you can see what you are doing) and tempered by reheating to a light straw colour and again quenched in oil or water.
The annealing process can be eliminated by purchasing new steel from a spring manufacturer.
This process is not the best available but suffices if you have limited facilities. It also relies on visual assessment of temperatures rather than precise measument that would occur with an oven. There is quite a bit of information available on the net.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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5th March 2013, 12:46 PM #5Retro Phrenologist
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Gary Pye sells HSS blanks
GPW HSS Blanks____________________________________________________________
there are only 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand binary arithmetic and those that don't.
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5th March 2013, 05:28 PM #6Skwair2rownd
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5th March 2013, 05:44 PM #7
Arthur
That's quite right. The cutting surface has to be completely removed first to eliminate stress fracture and once that is done the material is relatively thin. Too thin for a heavy duty scraper. On top of that you have to go through the whole process I outlined for a leaf spring.
HSS blanks would also be a good way to go but I am not familiar with the process of heat treating there and it may need more careful attention to temperature control. I think BobL has some information on that if he sees this thread.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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5th March 2013, 07:13 PM #8
I came by an old Sorby Scraper tool, it had the handle & blade but no scrapers or screws. £1 down the hardware suppliers (min spend) bought me 5 screws and another copule of pounds a 1" x 3/8" x 12" piece of Ground Flat Stock (High Carbon). After that it was just a matter of making a few scraper tips to suit my immediate need and doing exactly as Bushmiller said to harden & Temper the steel. With plenty of left over bar for making more and different tips as needed.
Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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5th March 2013, 07:23 PM #9Senior Member
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- New Zealand
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These are some scrapers I made from some old carbon steel tools.
The tips are bits of high speed steel planer blade silver soldered onto the carbon steel.
Michael
SAM_3883.jpgSAM_3881.jpg
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5th March 2013, 07:42 PM #10
Oland tools anyone?
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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5th March 2013, 08:20 PM #11
Yup, hughie makes some good ones.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/ola...pinions-48021/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/mak...nd-tool-79308/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/ola...-grind-102415/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/sho...d-tool-122767/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f171/oland-tools-93724/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/oland-type-tool-80837/Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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5th March 2013, 09:05 PM #12
I have made quite a few scraping tools by acquiring, , mild steel and silver soldering pieces of machine hacksaw blade on to the end of the steel bar. The steel I have is 35 x 10mm down to 12 x 12mm sections. This way you can match the size of the tool to the job. Some of them even have handles. I found the hack saw blade superior to planer blades and old hacksaw blades are usually thrown out, therefore very cheap.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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6th March 2013, 05:46 AM #13
so I can follow
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6th March 2013, 06:12 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
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High speed steel blanks come prehardened and ready to work. They are shaped by grinding.
Below are a couple of junk tools I made. Smaller is 1/2 X 1/2 inch, made of mystery metal that was used as a stake for concrete forms. Larger is 5/8 X 5/8 and was a wood chisel made by a blacksmith from a file. I did nothing to either other than put on handles and sharpen.
I use them for hollowing and gouging off bark and dirt before using a bowl gouge on the outside. They both work well and are easy to sharpen.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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6th March 2013, 07:34 AM #15Senior Member
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- Feb 2010
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- Eugene, OR USA
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Well, one note of caution, if you are reaching out a ways off the tool rest, you don't want a big cutter, 1/4 inch wide at most. The bigger the cutting tip, the more leverage is required. 1 inch wide scraper, I won't hang out more than 3 inches, no matter how big and heavy the cutter is. Hardened drill rod could work nice for cutting tips as well.
robo hippy
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