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  1. #1
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    Default Huon pine bowl using friction chuck.

    Bought a couple of nice huon pine logs sometime ago to make some sculptures from. (see "From benchseat to boner" 31st Jan 2013 in the woodcarving section of this forum if you feel like it) Anyway there was a fair bit of timber left over which was cut into bowl blanks and today seemed as good as any to make a start on them.
    As I am going to be using a friction chuck I have started with the smallest blank so that I can re-use the chuck to make the larger ones progressively.
    First step is to plane the face as flat as you can, an electric hand plane worked one way and then at right angles seems to do the trick pretty well.DSCF3565.jpg
    Once that is done then the most optimistic diameter is marked on the blank and then cut out roughly round with a chainsaw ( you could of course use a bandsaw ).DSCF3566.jpgThe blank is then mounted on the lathe and the outside of bowl is turned. It is important to make the foot of the bowl as square as you can get it from the bottom flat.This foot is approx 8mm long.DSCF3569.jpg There are a couple of bark inclusions on the outside face that I'm hoping wont go all the way through.DSCF3572.jpg Now its time to make the friction chuck, this one was made from 2 bits of scrap 19mm plywood. Once you have measured the diameter of your foot you mark that exact diameter onto the cleaned up face of the chuck. A sharp set of dividers works well set to the radius/ half dia. and then marked from dead centre.Experience has shown that its best to turn the hole into which the foot goes just a whisker shy of what you think it should be then test to see if its a fit. It must be a pretty tight fit. As with the foot of the bowl the hole must be square as well. You can get an idea as to whether or not its going to go in by trial and error.If it doesnt want to go in then skim a bit more out of the hole. Ideally you want to be able to hammer the blank into the hole with a few good blows of the hammer until the bowl goes all the way in. Here it is ready to go...DSCF3573.jpg If you find that you have turned the hole slightly oversize you can usually save the day by sandwiching a sheet of paper or strips of fine sandpaper between the bowl and chuck. The inside of the bowl is now ready to turn...DSCF3574.jpg Here is the finished unit with a coat of oil. it measures 325mm x 100mm deep. Its got a bit of birdseye in it. You can see that one of the bark inclusions made it through to the inside but as its really a fruit bowl I cant imagine any fruit falling through, maybe a really small elderberry! but who keeps them in a fruit bowl.
    Next job will be use the next biggest blank to make the next bowl. By making the foot of that one slightly bigger than the foot of this one the friction chuck should be able to do the rest of this lot which will have its largest bowl at about 450mmdia.DSCF3576.jpg I know it seems unlikely that such a basic looking chuck could actually work but they really do work well. The main thing is the snugness of the fit.
    Anyway that's my two bobs worth for the day.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Good to see old work methods geting a go. I have used friction chucks but only on smaller stuff. Sort of got spoiled after getting that nova.
    Those large huon blanks look tastey.
    Regards
    John

  4. #3
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    Default Thanks bodger

    Thanks Bodger,

    Havent got a chuck, and always happy to read posts regarding how to do things without one.

    Bill

  5. #4
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    Thumbs up

    Good WIP bodger and a beautiful bowl.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by orraloon View Post
    Good to see old work methods geting a go. I have used friction chucks but only on smaller stuff. Sort of got spoiled after getting that nova.
    Those large huon blanks look tastey.
    Regards
    John
    Yeah the good old friction chuck works well on the smaller stuff as well. This shot shows a batch I did years ago from off cuts from larger bowls, the biggest one is probably only about 7 inches diameter. Turned all the outsides first then worked my way up the different foot sizes.stacks of bowls.jpg Timbers are myrtle burl, blackheart sassafrass and Huon pine.
    Have not really ever been seriously tempted to buy a Nova, vickmark 3 in 1.etc But reckon they must have their upsides.

  7. #6
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    nice to see! I think people underestimate the holding power of the friction chuck! the best friction chucking I did a while ago the platter was 420 mm diameter, it's all about accurate turning and confidence!

  8. #7
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    Beautiful work AB

    Quote Originally Posted by chuck1 View Post
    ...it's all about accurate turning and confidence!
    Not to mention the tool work when actually doing the turning to minimise risks of popping. I wish I had more of these abilities
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  9. #8
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    Default bowls and more bowls.

    AB,
    Tip top, but I will stick with the Vicmarc and Nova me thinks.
    But having used a friction chuck only a few times, yes, it works and works well. Drillit.

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    Hi bodger,
    Very nice bowl, and a good wip too,
    Well done
    Cheers smiife

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    Beautiful work AB



    Not to mention the tool work when actually doing the turning to minimise risks of popping. I wish I had more of these abilities
    using meranti for backing plate remember to turn the joining parts flat and square, if it's loose pop some water on it but remember water evaporates so turning time is limited!

  12. #11
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    AB, very nice work & good sound turning techniques to make the friction jamb chuck work efficiently.

    The old ways almost force a turner to work safely. Speeds have to be kept in check. Tool skills need to be high and turners must prepare blanks well, plan the order of bowls to turn, work holding, and the method and sequence of cutting each bowl to prevent loosing a bowl.

    Your post highlights for me the modern reliance upon technology to solve everything. Most want the quick fix these days, the perfect tool or chuck that will solve all their problems, when the "secret" to success is really in the experience & technique. Time at the lathe with a good experienced mentor. I use several chucks, including collet chucks, but I also use the old ways as quite often they are the most expedient and efficient method.

    I believe that the modern high speed and quite powerfull lathes plus superior chucking methods actually enable aggressive and dangerous turning behaviours in a range of turners. They certainly enable higher speeds than are necessary. Those turners would never get away with such techniques and behaviours using old methods.

    Four jaw scroll chucks have their place as they have certainly revolutionised turning since they were introduced to wood turners in the early 1980's. Chucks have opened up many possibilities never available using old ways - allowing turners like Richard Raffan to hold bowls on impossibly small detail on a bowl. Again good technique and tool skill is required though.

  13. #12
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    Thanks everyone for all the positive feedback.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    Four jaw scroll chucks have their place as they have certainly revolutionised turning since they were introduced to wood turners in the early 1980's. Chucks have opened up many possibilities never available using old ways - allowing turners like Richard Raffan to hold bowls on impossibly small detail on a bowl. Again good technique and tool skill is required though.
    Yes Mobyturns I reckon you are right. I have been considering lashing out and getting one myself. Been considering the Vicmark VM 150 as I usually prefer to turn bowls on the larger size. Just been looking at their website and was surprised to see that I can get an adapter so that I can use it on my woodfast that has a 1 inch 10 TPI thread and also get an adapter that will enable me to use it on my bigger lathe that has a 1 1/2 inch 6TPI thread.
    What concerns me is that since the chuck is approx 6" in diameter, I wonder what is the largest diameter foot it can hang onto?. For instance if your turning a bowl of say 600-700mm diameter you might want to have a foot on the bowl that's bigger than 150mm.
    At least with the friction type chuck you can make it whatever size you want.

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    Vicmarc have a range of dovetail jaws from 105 vto 225mm dia. Vicmarc - Woodturning Lathes, Chucks, Jaws and Accessories - Jaw range

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    Vicmarc have a range of dovetail jaws from 105 vto 225mm dia. Vicmarc - Woodturning Lathes, Chucks, Jaws and Accessories - Jaw range
    I've turned 1200mm shallow and 950mm x 200mm deep on a Vicmarc 120 chuck with the large duo jaws.

    I wouldn't do it without using the clamp which locks the chuck onto the spindle of my VL300.

    I wouldn't suggest you try these sizes (and weights) unless you have had a few years of experience.

    An EVS lathe also helps with the safe working of large sizes like these.

    Also I wouldn't try these sizes and weights on a jam chuck.

    Not safe in my opinion.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers

    Tim
    Some days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.

  16. #15
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    Hope I am not banging on too much with this post and starting to bore everyone to snorts! but got around to doing the second bowl today out of the next biggest lump of Huon. Made the foot of this one a couple of mm larger than the last one and then skimmed the same amount from the plywood chuck. This one (pictured next to the previous one) measures 350mm x 105mm, it should ideally have been closer to 400mm dia if it was not for a crack that went further in than anticipated.DSCF3596.jpg Here's a shot of the profile...DSCF3597.jpg I quite like this shape, it gives a nice crisp transition from the outside of the bowl to the inside.
    Bowl design in my opinion is pretty important, you should be able to make an attractive bowl out of the blandest of timbers if you get the design right. On the other side of the coin, it can be disappointing to see to see a marvelous chunk of wood turned into a badly designed bowl.
    Now!, not finished yet... quoting
    Tim the Timber Turner
    Originally Posted by Mobyturns
    Vicmarc have a range of dovetail jaws from 105 vto 225mm dia. Vicmarc - Woodturning Lathes, Chucks, Jaws and Accessories - Jaw range



    I've turned 1200mm shallow and 950mm x 200mm deep on a Vicmarc 120 chuck with the large duo jaws.

    I wouldn't do it without using the clamp which locks the chuck onto the spindle of my VL300.

    I wouldn't suggest you try these sizes (and weights) unless you have had a few years of experience.

    An EVS lathe also helps with the safe working of large sizes like these.

    Also I wouldn't try these sizes and weights on a jam chuck.

    Not safe in my opinion.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers

    Tim

    Sounds like these Vicmarcs are up for the job then (225mm is a fairly decent foot size).
    Tim, what is an EVS lathe?.
    Also Tim, (not picking on you here) but it is surprising what the jam/friction chucks will hold onto. I once bought a Myrtle burl square block. It weighed 90 kilos. I particularly remember because the guys I bought it from were selling their turning blocks by the kilo. (it was green). By the time it was chainsawed into a rough round it might have weighed maybe 65-70 kilos. I still have the bowl, it measures 540mm x240mm. Turned it green cause a burl that size in Myrtle is bound to crack to the blazers if you try to dry it. This one developed a crack after turning which required a few different approaches to finally repair,....Epoxy glue with colour,at least 3 times, huon pine dovetails and finally shop made 3mm dia stainless steel staples. Here it is sitting on a milk crate. DSCF3602.jpg

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