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Thread: Improving a lathe
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9th May 2014, 12:50 PM #1Skwair2rownd
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Improving a lathe
I have Teknatool TL1200 lathe. The head stock is very good and so is the tailstock. The toolrest is satisfactory.
The bed is a different matter. It is two parallel pipes and while OK, has its limitations.
There are several features I want to improve:
*The locking mechanisms on the tailstock and headstock ar both via a on nut on which one hangs a spanner.
Works OK but is neither quick nor convenient. In fact a right PITA.
Any suggestions on how to do a cam lock set up would be appreciated!!!
* The bed is too light and is inclined to flex a little. I am wondering if it would be possible
to make a better bed out of thick walled square material.
This would mean grinding some locating lugs off the head stock, and the tailstock
OR
Perhaps mounting any square section at 45* so as to make use of the locating lugs.
Again - any suggestions are welcome, (short of using it for a boat anchor! )
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9th May 2014 12:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th May 2014, 01:28 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Hi artme Re the bed of lathe we used to drive Timber wedges under the bar as a quick fix but can be annoying when it's time to move tailstock past the wedges. I have an idea for the camlock but it's not a camlock, like on the old teknatool lathes will post a photo shortly!
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9th May 2014, 01:40 PM #3
Hmm pipes for a bed, not good. The short answer is throw them away and use some heavy angle ie 100x150x10 etc
Heres one I have made follow all the replies as I go through it with some detail
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...200#post722200Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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9th May 2014, 04:55 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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What about heavier pipe, or even solid bar the same size ? It would not flex ! and little modification. Phil
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9th May 2014, 05:06 PM #5.
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9th May 2014, 05:41 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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9th May 2014, 06:43 PM #7Hi Hughie, I read the thread with great interest, only to be disappointed, with no final result as to how it finished up????
KrynInspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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9th May 2014, 06:51 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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This is a photo of the old locking mechanism, not sure if you can buy them still or it might be a trip to engineering shop!
If you get some they could be retro fitted to what you have.
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9th May 2014, 07:27 PM #9
I used to have a pipe lathe, I filled them with cement grout, which helped but I eventually got rid of it when I bent the 25mm drive shaft
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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9th May 2014, 08:59 PM #10Skwair2rownd
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Thought of doing something like that Neil and while it will add mass I don't see it adding stiffness.
The walls of the pipe are only about 1/8" so they are a bit flimsy in my opinion.
The pipe is black steel and it seems to have been painted as it is slightly pitted and sliding the tailstock
for an operation such as drilling is a PITA.
I have thought of somehow extending the footprint of the tailstock base to help with sliding as it is quite short.
Might have to sus out some local talent here to get some ideas on costs and feasibility.
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9th May 2014, 09:10 PM #11Skwair2rownd
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I remember your build Hughie but for me that is a bit over the top!!! Mind you I would love to own
your beast, if only for skite value..
I had another look at the headstock and it has 4 lugs ( two pairs ) to fit snugly over each side of each pipe.
They come off with an inside angle of what looks like 135* on their inside surface and have about 1"plus gap
between each pair.
Now not sure if the angle or square section idea is so good.
Perhaps pommyphil's idea is the best option. I would need,however, to make absolutely certain the
new pipes or bars were dead parallel.
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9th May 2014, 11:06 PM #12New Member
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Might be easier and possibly cheaper to sell it and get yourself a TL3000 with the cast bed, had one for years and it worked well.
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10th May 2014, 07:04 AM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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Yes, a nice VL175 on eBay for $2800, on it's second listing
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10th May 2014, 11:57 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Artme,
I have a Hegner 175 with 2 inch square tubes for a bed. It has the same problem as yours, when I start with an out of balance bowl blank. The headstock, tool rest, and tail stock are all moving in different directions. When the out of balance is cut off, things settle down.
One of the fixes I thought of was to get some machine setting grout and put 3/4 inch rebar down the center and fill with grout.
If machine setting grout is hard to find, mortar mix will work. The grout does not shrink when it sets.
Another thought was to make a block to fit snugly between the bed and the bench below and then make a bridge over the top of the bed with a long bolt through it down through the top of the bench. I would use this when doing bowls, keeping the tool rest and tail stock to the left of the block.
I have since found two pieces of 4 foot 2 1/2 X 7 X 5/16 inch C channel for a bed that was being cut out of a metal building for a total of $6.00. Not yet installed.
I made a 3 inch oak knob with a glued in coupling nut for my tool rest banjo. I got a carriage bolt that the square fit in the banjo slot and extended through the clamping piece under the bed. There is just enough room under the bed for me to get my hand to tighten. You may have to put some blocks under yours to get enough space.
If you need more explanation, ask. I can make sketches and photos.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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10th May 2014, 01:02 PM #15Skwair2rownd
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Excellent Paul, thank you for your time and suggestions!!
I like your bolt and block idea and perhaps your idea of Re bar and grout may work.
Chuck1 tells me that these lathes have a problem with the bars spreading under certain conditions
so I'm thinking of combining your block and bolt idea with something to tie the bars in place.
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