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  1. #1
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    Default Jarrah Burl Platter with embonising and an embellished rim

    Good Afternoon Ladies and Gentlemen

    I have recently finished this Jarrah Burl Platter with embonising and an embellished rim. It is approx 300mm across and finished with 10 coats of Danish Oil
    Cheers
    Willy

    Jarrahland
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  3. #2
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    How'd ya blacken the rim?
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  4. #3
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    Looks great there Willy . Looking at that big crack/fault (on top diagonal in 2nd photo), that passes all the way through, you are lucky it held on. Did the chunk that was missing fall off or was it always that way?

    Given the cracking/voids and associated danger they posed, I probably would have filled them with something, but that's just me
    Neil
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  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    Looks great there Willy . Looking at that big crack/fault (on top diagonal in 2nd photo), that passes all the way through, you are lucky it held on. Did the chunk that was missing fall off or was it always that way?

    Given the cracking/voids and associated danger they posed, I probably would have filled them with something, but that's just me
    Neil
    I don't mean to be blase or arrogant, but after turning many hundreds of Burls, I reckon I am pretty comfortable with the risk management of cracks etc. Touch wood of course (Ha Ha double entendre (spelling) there). That chunk was already removed prior to turning, so had to be careful at the sanding stage.
    I often use CA for smaller cracks, but the Plastibond for the bigger ones, but often don't treat them at all.

    Did a competition piece a while ago, and a professional turner said 'Oh, what a shame, you didn't fill the voids'. I swear a month later, another professional turner was the opposite 'Oh, what a shame, you ruined the piece by filling the voids, should have left them natural'.

    Now, I only fill them if they need filling to stabilise

    Cheers
    WIlly

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    How'd ya blacken the rim?
    Cliff, I put a wire wheel in the drill, and with the lathe on, I wire brush the rim at 90 deg to the rim. Then I sand the inside and seal with Sanding sealer without getting any on the rim. The blackening is Ebonising, a solution of vinegar and steel wheel, left for a day. I then dab it onto the timber and the tannins within the timber reacts with solution, and it turns black instantly
    Willy

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willy Nelson View Post
    Neil
    I don't mean to be blase or arrogant, but after turning many hundreds of Burls, I reckon I am pretty comfortable with the risk management of cracks etc. Touch wood of course (Ha Ha double entendre (spelling) there). That chunk was already removed prior to turning, so had to be careful at the sanding stage.
    I often use CA for smaller cracks, but the Plastibond for the bigger ones, but often don't treat them at all.

    Did a competition piece a while ago, and a professional turner said 'Oh, what a shame, you didn't fill the voids'. I swear a month later, another professional turner was the opposite 'Oh, what a shame, you ruined the piece by filling the voids, should have left them natural'.

    Now, I only fill them if they need filling to stabilise

    Cheers
    WIlly
    Know what you mean about judges varying opinions regarding resin filling . For stuff like that I actually prefer non-filled, and realise you have turned heaps of these, just the crack shown below really worried me. Just goes to show how strong Jarrah is and how little is required to hold it together.
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    Neil
    ____________________________________________
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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willy Nelson View Post
    ... The blackening is Ebonising, a solution of vinegar and steel wheel, left for a day. I then dab it onto the timber and the tannins within the timber reacts with solution, and it turns black instantly
    Willy
    Liquid nightmare.

    Works great on timber with tannin in it.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    Liquid nightmare.

    Works great on timber with tannin in it.
    Or just add a tea bag to the mix for timber low in Tannins.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
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  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    Know what you mean about judges varying opinions regarding resin filling . For stuff like that I actually prefer non-filled, and realise you have turned heaps of these, just the crack shown below really worried me. Just goes to show how strong Jarrah is and how little is required to hold it together.
    O h Yeah, I see it now, Nah, that's not a crack.

    Seriously, that is absolutely no concern to me, Jarrah is quite strong and that flaw would present no problems at all
    Sincerely
    Willy

  11. #10
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    Default The finish

    Hey willy
    The finish looks great. How long do you leave between coats? Is each coat well dry and set?



    Quote Originally Posted by Willy Nelson View Post
    Good Afternoon Ladies and Gentlemen

    I have recently finished this Jarrah Burl Platter with embonising and an embellished rim. It is approx 300mm across and finished with 10 coats of Danish Oil
    Cheers
    Willy

    Jarrahland

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faulko View Post
    Hey willy
    The finish looks great. How long do you leave between coats? Is each coat well dry and set?
    Hello Mate
    I wait 24 hours between each coat generally, unless we have some hot weather and I am in a hurry to get a piece finished. In this case, I may give it a coat in the morning then the evening
    Cheers
    Willy

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