Thread: The New Look Steady

Well worth remembering.

Thanks Brendan.

Ross

Looks like a good solid job and would cost hardly anything to make. In fact I need one. I did notice it left burn marks but if you plan the job right then they get cut off later. I think that white plastic chopping board may go better than that black stuff he used as rubbing strips. Another one on the to do list.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by Ross

Well worth remembering.

Thanks Brendan.

Ross

Ross

When you make yours make one for me at the same time. I'll have the second one, you'll probably make a mistake or two on the first

Apparently he has plans for this steady. He mentions it in the conversation below the video.

One to keep in mind!!

Maybe it's just me but I don't see any significant avantages over the traditional style

Originally Posted by orraloon

Looks like a good solid job and would cost hardly anything to make. In fact I need one. I did notice it left burn marks but if you plan the job right then they get cut off later. I think that white plastic chopping board may go better than that black stuff he used as rubbing strips. Another one on the to do list.
Regards
John

He was using metal as the rub strip.
Plastic chopping board is usually high density polyethylene and it melts at ~110º so it wouldn't be much chop in that situation.

Originally Posted by China

Maybe it's just me but I don't see any significant avantages over the traditional style

I do. By replacing the wheels with a nice, easy to build frame, you get a good solid DIY jig out of it. I've downloaded the plans (such as they are) and find that I can build it right now from offcuts that I have in my scrap bin. I think I'll use UHMW instead of the steel rub plates, though. The wheeled versions are nice, but slightly more complex to build, and I don't usually have skate wheels to hand.

Originally Posted by Trent The Thief

I think I'll use UHMW instead of the steel rub plates, .

UHMW means Ultra High Molecular Weight, which means very little unless one adds something like PE (polyethylene) or PP (polypropylene) to the end of it.
UHMWPE and PP are not designed for high speed frictional uses such as this application since both have melting points in the low 100's ºC and will also well before then they will soften as they warm up. If there is one thing that is not wanted in that steady is for the contact material to get soft and deform as this could sent the item into a wobble and - anyone can work it out from

Given the wood is charing in contact with the metal on that stead that means the temperature is reaching at least 180º.

Something like PTFA teflon can cope with about 240ºC but it will start to soften at 200ºC and is not as hard as other plastics so will wear away more easily.

One thing that also needs to be recognised is that ALL plastics have low temperature conduction so using a plastic as a contact point with the wood will heat up faster and get to a higher temperature than using metal which can at least conduct the heat away from the contact point.

On big items I would be keeping a fire extinguisher handy

Apparently he has plans for this steady. He mentions it in the conversation below the video.]

Hmm curious way to go about it publish and sell later. If he hadn't publish first he might been able obtain a patent under the new innovation ruling from the Aust. patent office

Doubt could have got a patent - he says someone else's design

Originally Posted by BobL

UHMW means Ultra High Molecular Weight, which means very little unless one adds something like PE (polyethylene) or PP (polypropylene) to the end of it.
UHMWPE and PP are not designed for high speed frictional uses such as this application since both have melting points in the low 100's ºC and will also well before then they will soften as they warm up. If there is one thing that is not wanted in that steady is for the contact material to get soft and deform as this could sent the item into a wobble and - anyone can work it out from

Given the wood is charing in contact with the metal on that stead that means the temperature is reaching at least 180º.

Something like PTFA teflon can cope with about 240ºC but it will start to soften at 200ºC and is not as hard as other plastics so will wear away more easily.

One thing that also needs to be recognised is that ALL plastics have low temperature conduction so using a plastic as a contact point with the wood will heat up faster and get to a higher temperature than using metal which can at least conduct the heat away from the contact point.

On big items I would be keeping a fire extinguisher handy

Man. Thanks. That's one of the reasons I really like this forum. The answers have the details too, not simply a "you can't do that."

So the issue is friction and heat dissipation. I suppose it's probably best to go with the original design, then. Anything fancy to remove the heat would take this out of the easy to whip up out of nothing category.

Brendan interesting to see what is out there.

Are we going forwards or backwards with designs like these? May as well start using dead centers & tallow with it. I support simple designs that are well made & suitable for the task, however there are a few serious design flaws in this one. Firstly on softer timbers the stock will groove easily with the rather narrow contact surfaces leading to vibration then there is the very real risk of the unwanted high friction causing charing & even burning with the typically faster spindle speeds for this type of work. Another designg flaw I see is the reliance upon the metal glue timber joint. Will it fail relatively quickly due to the heat build up from friction?

How will it handle our harder Aussie timbers? or thinner / thicker stock? What hapens to the whole construction if there is a massive catch caused by the vibration due to the design flaw?

Maybe there will be more than the spindle stock flying about.

Some of the brumby looking but solid home made steel steady's with rollers or inline skate wheels are looking very well designed compared to this.But like all designs if you are aware of the design flaws and accomodate them it is useable - untill you forget or become complacement. I notice there is already two parallel rings from a steady move in one small hollowing job.

Originally Posted by Trent The Thief

Man. Thanks. That's one of the reasons I really like this forum. The answers have the details too, not simply a "you can't do that."

So the issue is friction and heat dissipation. I suppose it's probably best to go with the original design, then. Anything fancy to remove the heat would take this out of the easy to whip up out of nothing category.

No worries