Thread: Maximum thickness

I don't know why I'm participating in this debate,

I haven't even got a board like that.

Cheers

Tim

My theoretical answer to the theoretical question is 11mm.

I'm more of a pictures kind of guy so here's my proof, in sketchup.

Original 12mm bowed board in the back, 11m planed straight board in the front, with the top and bottom 1mm thick waste sections in grey.

12mm Bowed Board.JPG

(I drew it 100mm long instead 1000mmm for better clarity of the bowing)

Hey Jim!

You should grab them 2 offcuts from Ubute's great drawing and glue them together.

You would then have a 1mm thick piece that you could cut up and use in your laminations.

Please post a theoretical picture of your finished piece.

Cheers

Tim

Like quite a few others, I mis-read the original post. I thought we in fact had a board that needed fixing. It seems not. So....

If you wasted your time and built a decent sled for your drum sander, you could sand the hump out then reverse the board over and then take the high corners out. If you were very careful. And I think that would give you an 11mm board. Why anyone would do so is beyond me. All for the sake of 1mm. I could also get the same result on my woodwizz. I'd have to pack under the cup in both cases.

How to do it using your jointer-thicknesser is not something I would even try to do. Clearly, the board has moved and I would simply start again from scratch. It happens. You could try to joint the board but the pressure you exert on the jointer table would most likely flatten the thin board and make the entire process quite difficult. Assuming you started with the board cup up as you would normally do. Cup down? I am yet to meet a tradie that good.

Hand plane? Possible but who owns a jointing plane anymore? Who has a length of plate glass long enough to get the sole flat in the first place?

So in theory, 11mm is possible using the methods noted above. I think.

But in practice, 12mm is what 99% of woodworkers would achieve in less than 5 minutes with no stuffing around. Assuming you correctly started with one straight edge of a seasoned board at the break-down stage and went straight to the thicknesser from your bandsaw. Speculating, the original board would probably be meant for boxes, so a 1mm variation over a metre would pull out straight anyway.

I hope that answers the question in a roundabout way.

I agree the correct answer is 11mm, but it was fun.. The correct term for a board with a hollow surface is 'cup', different from bowed or twisted. The drawings suggest, technically, the board in question was cupped.

Jim

Anyway the answer is 11mm is the final thickness.