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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    Dunno!

    Q. how would wood turners know the answer to this?

    Only a few strange ones own devices called thicknessers.
    That makes me strange but they do come in handy it you want to prepare wood for segmented work

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  3. #17
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    If you want only 1 side flat, then 11mm (either at the ends or the middle, depending which side you straighten - concave or convex).
    If you want two flat parallel sides, then 10mm.

  4. #18
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    10mm definitely.
    Dragonfly
    No-one suspects the dragonfly!

  5. #19
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    Consider this.

    If you put the 12mm board on a flat surface with the cup side up, and measured the highest point it would be 13mm above the flat surface.

    Remove 1 mm off the concave side to make it flat and measure again, the highest point is 12mm above the surface.

    Turning the board over remove 1mm off the convex side to make this flat and you are left with 11mm.

    By making both sides flat you remove the equivalent of 1mm x the surface area of the board.

    So the answer is 11mm.

    Of course this answer is theoretical and could be different in practice, depending on the skill of the operator.

    Cheers

    Tim
    Some days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.

  6. #20
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    This has been a good little exercise in clear thinking.
    We should have one each week.

    (And I'm sticking with 11mm.)

    Edit: If it didn't have to be planed, it might be possible to steam-bend it and keep the original 12mm thickness.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  7. #21
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    Well, first you run it through the thickness planer to remove the hump on one side. Then one very light pass to make sure it is all gone. Then you turn it over and remove the dip from the other side. Again, one very light pass to make sure it is all gone. Then you let it sit over night to 'adjust'. Next, run it through the drum sander to remove all planer marks. Again. let is sit over night to 'adjust'. By now you will have removed about 4 mm. Hopefully the weather will have been constant, and the board will not have adjusted to humidity changes and warped again.......

    robo hippy

  8. #22
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    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dalboy View Post
    That makes me strange but they do come in handy it you want to prepare wood for segmented work
    Where is PowderPost when you need him? He would know the answer. I'm also becoming stranger by the day. Up until recently I have hand planed everything that came of the table saw.

    My answer theoretically 11mm btw. RoboHippy has the practical answer - what it ends up as! or more like 10mm in practice.

    Given the few segmenters I thought this was a left field trap question to catch out woodturners masterminded by a dastardly flat worker masquerading in wood turners clothing.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by robo hippy View Post
    Well, first you run it through the thickness planer to remove the hump on one side. Then one very light pass to make sure it is all gone. Then you turn it over and remove the dip from the other side. Again, one very light pass to make sure it is all gone. Then you let it sit over night to 'adjust'. Next, run it through the drum sander to remove all planer marks. Again. let is sit over night to 'adjust'. By now you will have removed about 4 mm. Hopefully the weather will have been constant, and the board will not have adjusted to humidity changes and warped again.......

    robo hippy
    Robo, a thicknesser would only duplicate the bow. A pass across a jointer would flatten one side, then thickness.

    A segmenter would not worry about the bow as small pieces would not be affected. If the board were being glued to another board, different story.

  10. #24
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    The answer is 11mm..i did ask for theoretical answer..but i did think it would get answers of 10 or 11mm.
    Sinjin

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by sinjin View Post
    The answer is 11mm..i did ask for theoretical answer..but i did think it would get answers of 10 or 11mm.
    Sinjin
    Have you proof?
    I expected that having posted the question, you would show definitive proof rather than just ask us to take your word for it.

    Edit: I agree though, the answer is 11mm.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dalboy View Post
    That makes me strange but they do come in handy it you want to prepare wood for segmented work
    Makes me even more strange as I have, in addition to the thicknesser, a jointer and drum sander as well.

    Peter.

  13. #27
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    The correct answer is not 11mm.

    I would suggest that the thread be posted on the general woodworking section. You will hopefully get some correct answers there.

    Depending on your planing skills - and the depth of the crook - the best you can hope for is around 10mm. You take 1mm off the bottom with planing, another 1mm when thicknessing. If a board is 1mm out on the top, typically it will be 1mm out on the other side. If you are skilled, you can reduce the waste somewhat, but you still need to face both sides of the board.

    This is not a wood turner's question. It should be placed elsewhere. Only segmenting turners will an idea. Perhaps.

    I have plenty of boards that are twisted. Prepared to send them if needed. 11mm advocates can pay the postage when wrong.

    Again, this is not a wood turners question. I would doubt that most wood turners have a planer and thicknesser.

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
    The correct answer is not 11mm.

    I would suggest that the thread be posted on the general woodworking section. You will hopefully get some correct answers there.

    Depending on your planing skills - and the depth of the crook - the best you can hope for is around 10mm. You take 1mm off the bottom with planing, another 1mm when thicknessing. If a board is 1mm out on the top, typically it will be 1mm out on the other side. If you are skilled, you can reduce the waste somewhat, but you still need to face both sides of the board.

    This is not a wood turner's question. It should be placed elsewhere. Only segmenting turners will an idea. Perhaps.

    I have plenty of boards that are twisted. Prepared to send them if needed. 11mm advocates can pay the postage when wrong.

    Again, this is not a wood turners question. I would doubt that most wood turners have a planer and thicknesser.
    This was double-posted in the General Woodwork section at the same time it was posted here, with similar conflicting answers.

    This is my thinking. (I'm on the 11mm horse.):

    Maximum thickness.JPG


    Edit: If it can't be done with a power planer or thicknesser, it can be done with a hand plane.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by sinjin View Post
    Simple but tricky question. If i had a plank of timber 12mm thick and just by chance it had a 1mm bow right in the center.
    Board lenght doesn't matter...say 1000mm for arguement sake.
    I need to plane the board dead flat and also dead parallel what would be the maximum thinkness i could get the plank
    when it is finished. This is a theoretical answer not from a practical point of view. Would the board end up being
    11mm thick or 10mm thick.
    Sinjin
    Theoretically, one would run the board over a surfacer with the cup side down to remove the 1mm cupping. Then one wold run the surfaced board through a panel planer to make the second side parallel to the surfaced side. The board would end up 10mm thick, theoretically, that is. The correct answer, theoretically, would be 10mm..

    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  16. #30
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    Steve, get some crooked boards out and tell me you come up with 11mm. My best advice is to avoid boards with crooks. Typically, quarter sawn boards won't twist the same as rift sawn boards.

    And if a board is 1mm out on one side, it must be 1mm out on the other. Low or high on one side, same on the other.

    Again, do you want me to send some boards? At your cost if you are wrong.

    What sort of machines are you running? I assume both a buzzer and thicknesser. Which makes we wonder why you are saying 11mm. From my experience - and it follows industry standards - a rough sawn 25mm board comes down to 19mm when dressed.

    That's not a deviation of 1mm.

    Perhaps you can educate us all.

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