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Thread: Maximum thickness
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1st February 2014, 08:47 AM #16
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1st February 2014 08:47 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st February 2014, 10:13 AM #17Senior Member
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If you want only 1 side flat, then 11mm (either at the ends or the middle, depending which side you straighten - concave or convex).
If you want two flat parallel sides, then 10mm.
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2nd February 2014, 07:10 AM #18
10mm definitely.
Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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2nd February 2014, 11:23 AM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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Consider this.
If you put the 12mm board on a flat surface with the cup side up, and measured the highest point it would be 13mm above the flat surface.
Remove 1 mm off the concave side to make it flat and measure again, the highest point is 12mm above the surface.
Turning the board over remove 1mm off the convex side to make this flat and you are left with 11mm.
By making both sides flat you remove the equivalent of 1mm x the surface area of the board.
So the answer is 11mm.
Of course this answer is theoretical and could be different in practice, depending on the skill of the operator.
Cheers
TimSome days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.
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2nd February 2014, 11:40 AM #20
This has been a good little exercise in clear thinking.
We should have one each week.
(And I'm sticking with 11mm.)
Edit: If it didn't have to be planed, it might be possible to steam-bend it and keep the original 12mm thickness.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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3rd February 2014, 04:41 AM #21Senior Member
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Well, first you run it through the thickness planer to remove the hump on one side. Then one very light pass to make sure it is all gone. Then you turn it over and remove the dip from the other side. Again, one very light pass to make sure it is all gone. Then you let it sit over night to 'adjust'. Next, run it through the drum sander to remove all planer marks. Again. let is sit over night to 'adjust'. By now you will have removed about 4 mm. Hopefully the weather will have been constant, and the board will not have adjusted to humidity changes and warped again.......
robo hippy
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3rd February 2014, 06:44 AM #22
Where is PowderPost when you need him? He would know the answer. I'm also becoming stranger by the day. Up until recently I have hand planed everything that came of the table saw.
My answer theoretically 11mm btw. RoboHippy has the practical answer - what it ends up as! or more like 10mm in practice.
Given the few segmenters I thought this was a left field trap question to catch out woodturners masterminded by a dastardly flat worker masquerading in wood turners clothing.
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3rd February 2014, 07:48 AM #23Retired
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3rd February 2014, 07:29 PM #24Senior Member
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The answer is 11mm..i did ask for theoretical answer..but i did think it would get answers of 10 or 11mm.
Sinjin
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3rd February 2014, 07:50 PM #25
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3rd February 2014, 07:56 PM #26Deceased
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3rd February 2014, 08:02 PM #27Retired
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The correct answer is not 11mm.
I would suggest that the thread be posted on the general woodworking section. You will hopefully get some correct answers there.
Depending on your planing skills - and the depth of the crook - the best you can hope for is around 10mm. You take 1mm off the bottom with planing, another 1mm when thicknessing. If a board is 1mm out on the top, typically it will be 1mm out on the other side. If you are skilled, you can reduce the waste somewhat, but you still need to face both sides of the board.
This is not a wood turner's question. It should be placed elsewhere. Only segmenting turners will an idea. Perhaps.
I have plenty of boards that are twisted. Prepared to send them if needed. 11mm advocates can pay the postage when wrong.
Again, this is not a wood turners question. I would doubt that most wood turners have a planer and thicknesser.
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3rd February 2014, 08:21 PM #28
This was double-posted in the General Woodwork section at the same time it was posted here, with similar conflicting answers.
This is my thinking. (I'm on the 11mm horse.):
Maximum thickness.JPG
Edit: If it can't be done with a power planer or thicknesser, it can be done with a hand plane.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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3rd February 2014, 08:35 PM #29
Theoretically, one would run the board over a surfacer with the cup side down to remove the 1mm cupping. Then one wold run the surfaced board through a panel planer to make the second side parallel to the surfaced side. The board would end up 10mm thick, theoretically, that is. The correct answer, theoretically, would be 10mm..
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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3rd February 2014, 08:37 PM #30Retired
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Steve, get some crooked boards out and tell me you come up with 11mm. My best advice is to avoid boards with crooks. Typically, quarter sawn boards won't twist the same as rift sawn boards.
And if a board is 1mm out on one side, it must be 1mm out on the other. Low or high on one side, same on the other.
Again, do you want me to send some boards? At your cost if you are wrong.
What sort of machines are you running? I assume both a buzzer and thicknesser. Which makes we wonder why you are saying 11mm. From my experience - and it follows industry standards - a rough sawn 25mm board comes down to 19mm when dressed.
That's not a deviation of 1mm.
Perhaps you can educate us all.
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