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4th December 2008, 08:21 AM #31
Chrisp, I think you have the idea, put your controls in an adaptable box with a strong magnetic on the back. If you ever do hollow forms etc then you can place it at the tailstock end of the lathe ( or even on the back of the lathe) assuming you will leave the lathe out from the wall. As that is where you might be standing.
When you think about it even a start button near the headstock is 'silly' as you need to reach past the 'line of fire'. Better to start the machine with your hands and body out of the way of the chuck etc.
A good foot switch is not cheap and 'questionable' compared to other ideas. I think if you added the moveable control box and if possible a long knee stop you would be cover all bases and have a very nice working step up.
At the expense of getting DVR users upset. 'WHAT WERE THEY THINKING?' The Nova's are a good lathe and then they go and add that %&^$ control panel. Clearly not the best idea.
I know long time Nova owners who won't upgrade to the DVR because of it. Not due to lack of money.
Good luck, you seem to be on top of it well and truly, great to see.
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4th December 2008, 09:27 AM #32
Great thread. Careful where you put the magnet mount on the head stock. I have a memory of Skew saying something about a mysterious problem caused by a magnetic thing put near the pulley or something.
anne-maria.
Tea Lady
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4th December 2008, 09:33 AM #33Banned
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The idea is to put the remote controls away from the headstock , out of the danger zone
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4th December 2008, 09:37 AM #34
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4th December 2008, 09:38 AM #35
Ah, sounds like induction heating. I wonder how close Skew's magnet was to the pulley?
I do very much appreciate all the comments and suggestions. Typical of me, things tend to happen in bursts with quite long lulls in between the bursts.
I think I will go with the remote control panel idea (and I must get my order in - 2 weeks delivery time) and I have a think about how I might set up the extra switches around the lathe, and what type of switches to use. I don't expect I'll get much more done on the lathe this side of Christmas.
Chris
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4th December 2008, 09:44 AM #36anne-maria.
Tea Lady
(White with none)
Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.
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27th May 2009, 06:22 PM #37
It has been awhile...
Continuing the story, when I last left it, it was essentially a wiring mock up to check that the motor and variable speed drive would work together. Now that I'm happy it is all going to work, it is time to start the real wiring. I've cut all the mock up wiring from the controller, rather than unscrewing it, as the stubs of cable will help to confirm the correct locations for each wire.
The original switch gear is shown in the next two photos
Attachment 106302Attachment 106303
The lathe with the original switch gear removed and the panel removed to show the proposed location for the VSD.
Attachment 106304Attachment 106305
Electronic devices don't like having metal shaving in them, so rather than using the VSD as a template, the mounting hole locations were measured and marked on to masking tape.
Attachment 106306
Screws for mounting the VSD were captivated to the back panel with shake proof washers and nuts. This was done to make it easier to installed and removed the VSD it will be be done many times during the wiring. The VSD will be secured to this screws with another set of nuts later.
Attachment 106307
Check that the mounting screws are in the correct place.
Attachment 106308
The VSD was removed and another hole drilled through the back panel. This hole will become the main earth point.
Attachment 106309
It is very important to remove all the paint around this hole to provide a good earth contact on to the body of the lathe. I used a Dremel type tool with a grinding stone.
Attachment 106310
The earth screw is, in this case, a 4mm screw with a star washer and nut.
Attachment 106311
This are installed to the earth point - with the star washer to the bare metal. These are then tightened up.
Attachment 106312Attachment 106313
All the earth connections of the various parts will brought back to this point. I've shown a few crimp lugs on this terminal so you can start to get an idea of the earthing arrangement.
Attachment 106314Attachment 106315
Looking ahead a bit, some of you maybe wondering how I'd be able to adjust the speed when the VSD is installed. The VSD is capable of being controlled by an external control panel shown here.
Attachment 106316
Back to the earthing. It is very important to be convinced that the earth connection is good. Using a multimeter, I check the resistance between the earth screw and the tail stock. I choose the tail stock as it was about the furthest bit of metal on the lathe. This will be about the worst resistance measurement I should get.
Attachment 106317
The earth resistance reads o.3 ohm (acceptable), but I know the multimeter leads contribute a fair bit of this. Shorting the multimeter leads together gives me a measurement of the lead resistance. In this case it also reads about 0.3 ohm.
Attachment 106318
Therefore, my real earth resistance is about 0 ohm (or about 0.1 ohm give or take). You should be able to achieve earth resistance of 0.5 ohm or lower. If the reading (corrected for the leads) is above 0.5 ohm, you should review the earthing arrangement.
The earth resistance needs to be low so that in the event of a fault, the fault current will be high and trip the circuit breakers, or blow the fuse, promptly.
I'm happy that I've got a good earth contact to the body of the lathe. I've placed a sticker near the earth screw to indicate that this will be the central earth point in this machine.
Attachment 106319
I rewire the motor side of the VSD. Note that the earth is taken to the earth screw.
Attachment 106320
The mains side of the VSD is slightly more complicated. The active and neutral go straight to the VSD. The earth from the cable to connected to a lug. A separate wire is used to connect the earth terminal on the VSD to another lug.
Attachment 106321
These two earths are taken back to the main earth (rather than daisy chained).
Attachment 106322Attachment 106323
It is important to constrain the wiring too. The wiring is constrained with cable ties to prevent the cable coming adrift if the wires break.
Attachment 106324Attachment 106325
So far, the wiring has the mains coming in and going directly to the VSD. We'll need a mains switch as well - and also an earth to the panel on which the switch is mounted. I've added another earth cable from the central earth for this purpose.
Attachment 106326
The loop of yellow cable will be cut and a switch installed. I'm using a industrial switch. As the mounting block doesn't have cable entries in the rear, I'll drill my own and install cable glands.
Attachment 106327Attachment 106328Attachment 106329
I've install the panel back on the lathe. [I'll deal with the extra holes later.]
Attachment 106330
The yellow cable has been cut and fed through the cable glands.
Attachment 106331
The mounting block has been attached to the plate.
Attachment 106332
The rear of the plate shows (a) how the glands come though one of the large holes; and (b) the earth connection to this plate. Again, the paint was removed and a star washer used.
EDIT: The front panel is earth using a separate, dedicated, screw rather than doubling up and using, for example, one of the screws holding the switch in place. This is done so that the earth isn't accidentally left unconnected when doing work on the machine, and also, screws though plastic (i.e. the mounting block) can't be relied on to maintain sufficient tension on the screw to maintain a good earth contact.
Attachment 106333
The active and neutral are wired through the switch. Note this is a 3-pole switch intended for 3-phase. I'm only using two poles. Tighten all the screws - including the unused terminals. Very important: DON'T ever switch the earth!
Attachment 106334
The earth connection is tightly twisted together. It is this twisting that makes the main contact between this wires.
Attachment 106335
This twisted joint was folded and a 2-screw BP connector installed. It is important to check that the screw actually presses on the wire. These aren't my preferred type of connector for this type of connection. Screw terminals that have the screw pressing directly on to flex or not the best. Normally I would use a crimp joiner.
Attachment 106336Attachment 106337
Tape up the earth connection and install the switch to the mounting block.
Attachment 106338Attachment 106339
Behind the panel, Tighten the cable glands - these form the cable restraint to prevent the connections from receiving mechanical forces that may be applied to the cable. Cable tie the cables together to keep everything neat and tidy and out of harms way.
Attachment 106340
With the panel installed, check that the cables are well out of harms way. These photos, looking up the past the motor, show the cable sitting well away from the moving parts, and no sign of cables or wiring near the belt.
Attachment 106341Attachment 106342
The bulk of the mains wiring is now done but there are a few things still to be done:
- Cover the holes
- Install the remote control panel
- Install some axillary / emergency stops
- safety test
More soon...Last edited by chrisp; 27th May 2009 at 11:05 PM. Reason: To add a little extra info.
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27th May 2009, 06:44 PM #38Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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27th May 2009, 07:12 PM #39
Excellent post. Probably something that only someone with electrical experience should/would attempt, but a very detailed and informative explanation of 415v > 240v conversion, as well as changing bearings etc. Many thanks!
I also have an old Woodfast 415 volt lathe which would benefit from this process, but I think I'll just sell it as it is and point prospective purchasers to this thread.
WayneDon't Just Do It.... Do It HardenFast!!
Regards - Wayne
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27th May 2009, 07:58 PM #40
An excellent lathe. I have one I bought in 1981. The bearings and belt are as good as the day I bought it, in spite of a hell of a lot of work. Changing the belt speed is a pita.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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