Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 44
-
28th May 2011, 06:22 PM #16
A little more progress
I managed to get the tenons cut on the short short stubs this afternoon.
Cutting each long shoulder and chiseling back
Attachment 171291 Attachment 171292
Cutting from corner to corner because of the 'dovetail' front (to make it match the post it is attached to)
Attachment 171293 Attachment 171294
I made two rough chips, then started paring down the face to leave the other two shoulders.
Attachment 171295 Attachment 171296
The finished tenon. You can see the chip out in what was pared as opposed to what has been cut. I guess this would be less pronounced in reall wood, hopefully with a nice clean line where the two faces meet. All good practice though.
It is 20mm long, 50mm wide and 15mm thick and could have been longer but I didn't want to remove too much material in the mortise and weaken the rail right near the halving joint.
Attachment 171297 Attachment 171298
Any comments or suggestions are more than welcome about the dimentions. As you can tell from the multiple markings I was going by what looked about right...Last edited by Robomanic; 28th May 2011 at 06:24 PM. Reason: rewording around pics 1 & 2
Cheers,
Shannon.
-
28th May 2011 06:22 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
28th May 2011, 10:31 PM #17
Watching with interest.
-
29th May 2011, 11:03 AM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- Location
- Broken Hill
- Posts
- 308
Looking good! - how about this for a tool holder?
Three wise middle aged monkeys - "see no pot-belly, feel no bald spot, buy no sports car"
-
29th May 2011, 07:52 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- brisbane
- Age
- 52
- Posts
- 579
If that doesn't help Robo, it will me Bellyup. I've been using my routertable top. Consider that idea pinched..
And Robo, looking great so far, your a gamer man than i am, your getting pretty accurate with those dovetails and tenons with framing pine, lookin really good mate.
Neal.
-
29th May 2011, 08:59 PM #20
That bracket does look pretty handy. Beauty in simplicity there
The 240mm z saw I picked up at the show is just a joy to use. A scrap of wood just has to look at me funny and suddenly there are two Gives me the kick to want to cut joints.
Progress wise I got one end glued in today. Still need to cut the mortices for the other end but I'm glad I didn't rush it. There are a few things I wish I had done differently but we'll get to them...
Thanks guys.Cheers,
Shannon.
-
30th May 2011, 07:09 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- brisbane
- Age
- 52
- Posts
- 579
Sorry Shan, dont wanna hijack your thread, will say tho for a temp measure 5 mins, an offcut decking board and a part of the old lathe, this tip was gold for me. Idea pinched, parts sourced, manufacture excecuted, in use. Thanks Bellyup just what i was after.
Got any more details on that Z saw mate, it looks good.
Neal.
-
30th May 2011, 10:53 PM #22
Z saw comments
No problem at all mate. Trying to discuss rose pruning or table cloth ironing would be a hijack
The Z saw is this one from Carba-tec. (240mm fine tooth joinery saw)
Fine Tooth Joinery Saw : CARBA-TEC
I have the had this one for about 10 years (150mm general purpose saw)
General Purpose Saw : CARBA-TEC
The blades actually make pretty good flexible scrapers too which is an added bonus when they go too dull.
I've bought 3 blades for the 150mm saw in that time so I guess 2-3 years each. It has been my fault every time for cutting something I shouldn't or getting carried away (cutting somethig I shouldnt) and bending the tip, Usually while rushing a job. They do pick up rust so keep them off the bench in draw when not in use and in the cover they come in if possible. Most frustrating thing is rusting one side (side facing up when left on bench) and it kills the teeth on that side plus extra drag, so it will always pull to the sharper side from that day on.
Cannot comment between brands of these saws, but I always felt more comfotable with these vs a tenon or dovetail saws becasue of the different handle orientaiton.
Hope this helps (and that's how you hijack a thread!).Cheers,
Shannon.
-
4th June 2011, 11:30 PM #23
All glued up
Quick update on today's efforts.
Two remaining mortices to be chopped. All marked out, First cuts then first pass all round.
Attachment 172160 Attachment 172165 Attachment 172161
Test fit before the mortice gets too deep.
Attachment 172162
I glued the top rail into the end pices then inserted the assembly into the two sockets with glue on the faces between them as well.
Attachment 172163
Not 100% acurate or furniture grade but worth the excercise in finding what is worth putting time into, and what is overkill. I am confident that these mounts for the bed will never shake apart.
Attachment 172164
Next is to resurect the plane and smooth off the top to make each mount flat and true before bolting down the bed.
Getting closeCheers,
Shannon.
-
5th June 2011, 09:21 AM #24Skwair2rownd
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Dundowran Beach
- Age
- 76
- Posts
- 19,922
Well on the way there Shannon!
-
5th June 2011, 11:09 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
- Posts
- 2,327
Very nice!
You may want to put the back on sooner than later to keep from racking the frame side to side and loosening your glue joints.
This would most likely only happen if you put a big out of balance bowl blank on the lathe with the spindle facing the side.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
-
7th June 2011, 09:52 AM #26Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Central Mangrove
- Posts
- 85
holders
Hi may look a bit rough, but works well for me.
-
7th June 2011, 10:47 AM #27
I see a problem with your bench
shavings are going to be a pain in the rear to clear from that shelf. You might want to consider a piece of, say, masonite sloping from the front, just under the lathe to the back so shavings slide onto the floor at the rear
[hope that makes sense]regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
-
7th June 2011, 12:26 PM #28Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Central Mangrove
- Posts
- 85
I assume you mean me (clarky), Thanks, good idea. I have a big dust remover, which is not visible, behind the lathe and going under the bench, not perfect but works well.
-
7th June 2011, 05:39 PM #29
Could also be mine... Might have to help us here SM
Clarky, PVC looks good. I may well resort to something just like that if this does not work out as intended.
Shavings will collect and I actually dont mind too much. 80% of spindle shavings end up in the catcher attached to my toolrest, and bowl shavings spay all over the place anyway. I was kind of hoping that what did build up on the shelf would give me something to jam the chisels into between changes. The is good clearance in and around to swing the 4" DE hose to clean it out when needed.
Should get a chance to try it out this weekend so Ill let you know.Cheers,
Shannon.
-
12th June 2011, 07:00 PM #30
With thompy's help I got the headstock back on and transplant basically complete today
Thanks for your help again mate, it was nice to catch up with you again and meet your lovely wife.
Front to back it is rock solid thanks to the ply, but end to end I can get a fundamental going so as mentioned earlier, the back ply will need to go on soon to take the flex out of the frame. 100 times better than it was though and definitely stiff enough to use as is.Cheers,
Shannon.
Similar Threads
-
MC1100 lathe motor problems
By GC in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 7th December 2006, 04:55 PM