Thread: Pepper mill - mill drill

I have a Wood-cut mill drill but don't use it as my centre hole is only 22mm for the shape I have developed. A guy at out club is developing a similar tool but with TCT cutters, plus with an air connection that blows out all the chips, so I am waiting for that one to be released.

I have used all sorts of timbers including camphor but I seal the inside with hard shellac

Originally Posted by dai sensei

I have a Wood-cut mill drill but don't use it as my centre hole is only 22mm for the shape I have developed. A guy at out club is developing a similar tool but with TCT cutters, plus with an air connection that blows out all the chips, so I am waiting for that one to be released.

I have used all sorts of timbers including camphor but I seal the inside with hard shellac

The new one sounds good. I reckon even the wood cut one is a great idea but I have just got mine and the morse taper slips in the tailstock. Have you heard of anyone with similar problem? I will be asking for a replacement for mine as I reckon at the price they should at least be able to get the taper right.

Originally Posted by newqlder

..I reckon even the wood cut one is a great idea but I have just got mine and the morse taper slips in the tailstock. Have you heard of anyone with similar problem? I will be asking for a replacement for mine as I reckon at the price they should at least be able to get the taper right.

Check your tailstock MT is clean. I use one of these regularly to ensure they keep clean http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/category/-tapermate

Also for a cheap morse taper cleaner I use a shot gun pull through . The copper brush type. It worked well!
I still drill all my holes individually starting with the biggest one required and move down in size.

As Neil indicated if the taper is not clean it will not hold properly as these are a friction fit.

Even if the taper is a smidgen out there will be enough drive to keep in place.

It is also worth holding the cutter head like you would do with a drill chuck to keep it from pulling out which is more probable to what is happening to you.

If you find that the taper has a glazed look about it from spinning in the taper rub chalk on the tapers as this increases the grip.

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

As Neil indicated if the taper is not clean it will not hold properly as these are a friction fit.

Even if the taper is a smidgen out there will be enough drive to keep in place.

It is also worth holding the cutter head like you would do with a drill chuck to keep it from pulling out which is more probable to what is happening to you.

If you find that the taper has a glazed look about it from spinning in the taper rub chalk on the tapers as this increases the grip.

If your tail stock design permits - use a drawbar - a threaded rod designed to thread into the tang end of a MT and to have a nut & washer on the outboard side to securely hold the chuck. Google "MT2 drawbar." Far safer drilling using a drawbar.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

I have a Wood-cut mill drill but don't use it as my centre hole is only 22mm for the shape I have developed. A guy at out club is developing a similar tool but with TCT cutters, plus with an air connection that blows out all the chips, so I am waiting for that one to be released.

I have used all sorts of timbers including camphor but I seal the inside with hard shellac

Get one of this will take out unevenness in the tail stock


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1Set-MT2-...item4612d5108e