Thread: please advise re lathe setup

Originally Posted by jow104

Yes that looks good and sturdy, however I am not a mdf user perhaps 3/4" ply would be more for me.

Perhaps Ray would comment if he looks in.

A bench stand made of MDF will be the sturdier of the two .
It is more solid , heavier and nowhere near as flexible as plywood. All the qualities that you need in a lathe stand .

I built mine of MDF , with a timber top ( Doug Fir) .

Not the best photo , but you get the idea

Forget the extra Ballast for the lathe, any lathe set up properly will be stable if the legs are wider than the lathe, the problem comes in when folks set up the legs directly under the lathe. The larger the footprint the more stable (not extra weight)

Originally Posted by Hickory

Forget the extra Ballast for the lathe, any lathe set up properly will be stable if the legs are wider than the lathe, the problem comes in when folks set up the legs directly under the lathe. The larger the footprint the more stable (not extra weight)

This true to a point. If lathes have cast iron stands then you have weight PLUS the vibration absorbing capacity of the cast iron.

Extra weight should ideally be in the form of ballast that will absorb vibrations. Bags of fine gravel or sand are pretty well ideal.

Yes that looks good and sturdy, however I am not a mdf user perhaps 3/4" ply would be more for me.

If your using ply or MDF consider building your stand with hollow legs. This will allow you to add ballast to your legs with compromising any drawers or shelving you might be contemplating.
The stand in the pics is a bit spartan but you get the idea, pour your sand/gravel etc in the top. Just make sure its in its final spot otherwise it becomes a bit of a contract to move it around.

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

A bench stand made of MDF will be the sturdier of the two .
It is more solid , heavier and nowhere near as flexible as plywood. All the qualities that you need in a lathe stand .

I built mine of MDF , with a timber top ( Doug Fir) .

Not the best photo , but you get the idea

MJ...seein' that pig sticker you have chucked up you must be taking distance learning lessons from ...when are you graduating to porch posts?

Originally Posted by Ed Reiss

MJ...seein' that pig sticker you have chucked up you must be taking distance learning lessons from ...when are you graduating to porch posts?

Yep , got an order of telegraph poles coming in ...

I was turning a floor lamp stand . the person never came back

It is made of kauri , or will be when it is finished

my problem with mdf is that my workshop is very damp in winter, and I am certain mdf would have some movement caused over this.

However things have come to a standstill here in Devon, temps down to 2C and I've got backache. So most probably I will go into hibernation for a couple of months if you know our situation.

Seal every piece of the MDF , on all faces and sides ,with an enamel paint , before you assemble the stand .

MDF is used for laundry , bathroom ,and kitchen joinery , so it can withstand a bit of a damp environment , If sealed properly .

Forget the MDF sealed or not it will rot in your climate out there as you know.
Get a decent plank seal it I'd also put something between the wall and the lathe to stop the damp from the wall if you can. That would help insulate you also.

Thanks guys, thinking of you all down there with that lovely weather.

Even mdf offcuts I have been given have cupped including the 3/4" stuff. I shudder to think what some kitchens are like after the floods we have been getting the past few years in the UK.

jow looks very similar to my mc1100 yes i put a shelf under mine but i didn't slope it instead I put it about 5 inches 125 mm for the metrics under the bed . Then put a 4in hole for the dust extractor under the usual (the head sildes on mine people ) chuck position . even if the dusty is not on i can sweep the shavings into the hole .PS put another shelf on the bottom to so you can put wood under there it will also help with the viberation .

Thanks, yes the headstock swivels 180 degrees, your suggestion also makes sense, a neighbour came in this morning and had a look at the setup and suggested I also run a back board up high enough and allows any back dust to fall down to a lower tray.

Must admit I am anti dust in my nice new workshop layout.

I have an old real estate sign behind on the wall saves the wall as its plaster from some damage in your case would insulate. Its the plastic sheet type.