How do you remove the #2Morse Taper Shank From A Jacobs Drill Chuck ?

**RoyG** · 6th April 2016, 12:58 PM

Greetings,

I picked up a box of assorted woodturning tools at a recent garage sale - a bunch of Tool Rests with 1 inch shanks that will fit my lathe, a bunch of 2MT dead centres, live centres, and a hollow live centre, a bag of assorted Carbide tool tips, plus a drill chuck with a 2MT shank - all for $10.00 - bit of a bargain.

Anyway - the drill chuck has a problem. The chuck has the Jacobs brand name marked on it, so it may be a genuine Jacob's chuck, but it could still be a made in China version, if that makes any difference.

Unfortunately, when I popped the chuck into the tail stock my lathe, I found that the tip of a drill installed in the chuck failed to align with a dead centre mounted in the headstock, with the misalignment being about 2mm. I quickly installed a known good live centre into the tail stock just to confirm that my tailstock is still aligned correctly, and the tail stock alignment is spot on.

Close examination of the Jacob's chuck and it's 2MT shank shows that the shank appears to not be seated squately in the Jacobs Taper in the back of the drill chuck. I figure that if I can remove the shank from the chuck, I can probably clean up the Jacob's Taper so that it will seat correctly.

I found one suggestion on the Internet which involved gripping the chuck in soft jaws in the vice, and giving the shank a sideways wack with a soft faced hammer to break the grip on the Jacobs Taper, but that didn't work. I've had a look down the guts of the chuck to see whether there is a screw in there that locks the shank to the chuck, and I'm pretty sure that there isn't one.

Any suggestions regarding how I should go about removing the shank from the chuck ?????

Regards,

RoyG

**Lyle** · 6th April 2016, 01:25 PM

So you have a jacobs chuck/drill chuck (three jaw), with a No2 morse taper shank. Is it really the taper or the chuck.
Without a drill bit close up the jaw and see if that aligns to the end/head stock.
If not, then some chucks are a screw on fit, others are another taper.
Sometimes it is not easy to see which it is.
I'd try liberal heat with hot air gun and penetrating fluid, allow to seep in.
Then try the soft jaws in a vice to hold the front of the chuck and gently twist the morse taper end (they usually have a flat bit on the end), twist like a normal nut bolt (counterclockwise to undo).
Gently. then repeat.
Hopefully that'll help.

**Grahame Collins** · 6th April 2016, 01:38 PM

I have just been down this road and forgotten that drill chucks not only have Jacobs taper mounts but also can be threaded.

It may be wise to check this first.

Here are some images that may help you

JT wedges.jpg

tapered-shank-chuck-removal.png

tapered-spindle-chuck-removal1.png

threaded-spindle-chuck-removal.png

and a U tube that might help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rcr0_JDJI0M

Cheers
Grahame

**QC Inspector** · 6th April 2016, 04:27 PM

If all else fails cut the taper off the chuck where the taper is soft at the end of the chuck. Drill a tap drill sized, say for an 8mm thread, hole through the centre of the remaining shank. It should break through before hitting the inside of the chuck. Thread the hole you made with a plug tap followed by a bottom tap if there is not enough room between the end of the shank and chuck for the plug tap to cut the thread through. Now you can put a bolt in and turn it in until it bottoms out. The shank will pop right out, ready for a new one.

Pete

**Uncle Al** · 6th April 2016, 08:36 PM

You really got a bargain for that lot. Three very interesting and useful replies, all of which seem worth a try.
Is there any other numbers (model numbers) on the chuck which may give you a clue as to the type of mount, taper or screwed?

It might be worthwhile sticking the whole chuck in the freezer overnight before heating the chuck body with a heat gun to give a bit more temperature differential.

Hope you get a good result.

Alan...

**RoyG** · 6th April 2016, 09:45 PM

I also posted this same question over on the Metalwork Forums and got more different answers over there. I'm sure I'll be able to sort the problem out with all the information that people have provided.

Many thanks,

RoyG

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