Thread: repair options?

Is the inside finished ?

Cut a recess to the outside of your jaws, maybe 4-5mm deep.

And keep your eye out for 100mm dovetail jaws.

[QUOTE=Kuffy;2002683]. I reckon I can just mount the bowl in my cole jaws, flatten the bottom and then glue on a sacrificial block and turn another spigot onto that block and try again. but that seems like too much work so....QUOTE]

That would be the way that I'd do it, try using hot melt glue on the sacrificial block, when you've finished put it in the microwave or use a heat gun to warm it and the block should practically fall off. Have used this several times for the same reason. The excess glue can be scraped off with a chisel.
Kryn

The inside isn't finished. If it was I would just level the base with a handplane and call it a day. It looks like a dogs breakfast inside, hasn't even had any work done by the 60grit gouge yet.

I thought about a shallow recess, but I am hesitant to put the bottom of the inside of the bowl so close to the recess. I tend to end up with lamp shades when I do this.

I might give hot glue a go, saves waiting for a bajillion hours for pva to satifactorily cure.

Another option would be to permanently glue on a block - grain aligned with what's already there for future stability - and once the inside is cleaned up turn away the bulk of the block to leave a ring which can then be carved into feet?

After spending hours on a bowl, why would glueing another spigot on be so much tedium?

It seems to me that it will be quick thing to do, especially if you have cole jaws.

Show us how you go, I'm forever exploding bowls and snapping attachment points.

It's tedious because because I have already spent hours messing about square dressing 10" shorts and weird sticks to glue up the silly thing! and now I have to spend even more time "because my tools or machinery did the wrong thing...again!". I often wonder how much time I would save if I used somebody else tools which don't do the wrong thing

Originally Posted by Kuffy

It's tedious because because I have already spent hours messing about square dressing 10" shorts and weird sticks to glue up the silly thing! and now I have to spend even more time "because my tools or machinery did the wrong thing...again!". I often wonder how much time I would save if I used somebody else tools which don't do the wrong thing

That's priceless, Kuffy. Blame the tools. mmm, mmm, mmm....... When I got my first chuck, a Nova G3, I used a tenon that was about 1 13/16 because everything I read stated that the best tenon to use should be one that closes down to the roundest point on the jaws. I see you are doing about the same thing.

After losing about 4-5 pieces that snapped at the tenon, I went with a tenon sized up to 2 1/4". Now, it's about 500 pieces later and haven't lost any at the tenon except a couple burls. Just glued them back on and finished the pieces.

Another thing that will cause separation like that is straight grain. Your bowl look like they use straight across the entire bottom. If you can realign it, put the tenon back on. The glue joint should be stronger than the wood at that point. Glue and joint pressure should be achieved by stacking some heavy items on the bowl after gluing and letting it set for the recommended cure time.

That's going to be a nice looking bowl when done. Don't give up on it........... Jerry (in Tucson)

Yes, I am using a tenon to match my chuck jaws. I was planning on using a bigger tenon when I eventually turn a new one on this piece. The chuck jaws will bruise the hell out of a bigger tenon, but it matters not, because I will remove it for the finished bowl.

Hi kuffy , I had a similar problem awhile back , and the concensus
was my tenon was too small , maybe get some bigger jaws for your
chuck , you know you want to buy more tools anyway...........

Originally Posted by smiife

Hi kuffy , I had a similar problem awhile back , and the concensus
was my tenon was too small , maybe get some bigger jaws for your
chuck , you know you want to buy more tools anyway...........

Larger diameter jaws would definitely help solve the issue. Looks like the woods that make up the tenon are straight grained and easily sheared, not interlocking grain. The shear strength of woods is an important consideration in determining the tenon size.

You could get away with a 50mm tenon on a large bowl with interlocking grain but not with straight grained timber. So good shingle making timbers are not suited to small tenons.

Originally Posted by Kuffy

.....I reckon I can just mount the bowl in my cole jaws, flatten the bottom and then glue on a sacrificial block and turn another spigot onto that block and try again. but that seems like too much work.......

I can relate that this might seem to be a lot of work and depending on what you have already done with the preparation it might well be a lot of work. As to what you have already said in the steps in repairing this bowl, is exactly what I would do. I would also state that I would use regular glue and wait overnight before looking at this again. Other then waiting for the glue to dry/set I prefer to come at it with a fresh perspective. The fact that it failed is discouraging and when that happens it may lead to other issues, so taking a break(pun) between breaks is not a bad thing.

If there's enough thickness left in the walls you could always reglue the tenon, or a larger on, back on. It won't be dead centre, but you will finish up with a rather quirky off centre bit of turning?

Make a spigot that fits the chuck but with a larger base to glue on the bowl base. I would follow what others have said and use hot glue, but leave it for an hour before attacking it again.

Try someone elses tools, tey may be sharper than yours?

John, I thought of sticking a new spigot on "roughly center" because the wall thickness is still enough to allow for slight discrepancies. But I actually put some effort into making sure the bowl will have symmetry side to side.

I can almost guarantee that other peoples turning tools are sharper than mine. If the machine is doing all of the hard work, why should I bother to keep tools sharp. By the time I am willing to shut the lathe down to sharpen the tool, I can clearly see a facet where the edge is supposed to be, and it is an easily measurable facet!!! However, the scraper which knocked the bowl off the lathe was brand new super duper kinda sharp off an 80g AlOx wheel. My bench chisels and plane irons are super duper sharp when I am using them, but I am the poor donkey that needs to supply the power for em to work, so it's actually a laziness thing as to why I keep bench tools super sharp. Lazy FTW!