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  1. #1
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    Default Repeat Sizing tool

    I'm interested to know any thoughts on what you think is the best way to repetitively size a turning end for a joint when its got to be dead on every time .

    Like when your doing post and rung style Chairs, Stools, or ladder .
    The end of your work has to fit a drill hole squeaky tight every time .

    Creeping up on the size with a chisel and measuring gauge is a bit slow and hit and miss when you have a lot to do.

    Ive got an old wood turning adjustable chisel and gauge sort of tool designed for this but its not so good.

    And Ive seen some ground or cut steel, with a range of sizes per tool, slip over the end of the work and run back and forth type tool . Looks a bit like a comb with the gaps that match drill sizes used in such woodwork construction. Have not tried one yet .



    Rob

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  3. #2
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    Default

    That is what I would do. A piece of 3mm flat steel (Mild steel will work) Drill into it the diameter you want then cut back to the edge giving you a slotted hole that is ready to slide onto the spindle in question. I wouldn't use more that one slot per piece of flat steel because you may use the wrong size unless you could "blank" the others not being used
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  4. #3
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    Default

    Those things used to be available, they were called a "pin gauge".

  5. #4
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    Hi auscab , how about using an open ended spanner of the correct size!
    Cheers smiife

  6. #5
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    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by chambezio View Post
    That is what I would do. A piece of 3mm flat steel (Mild steel will work) Drill into it the diameter you want then cut back to the edge giving you a slotted hole that is ready to slide onto the spindle in question. I wouldn't use more that one slot per piece of flat steel because you may use the wrong size unless you could "blank" the others not being used

    Thanks Rod . I may have to give that another try . I did it once but it was a bit rushed and didn't go so well .

    This is the similar thing that could be bought.

    https://www.turnersmate.com/

    I like the idea of cutting my own first before buying more stuff atm .

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by artful bodger View Post
    Those things used to be available, they were called a "pin gauge".


    Thanks for the lead on the name artful. Gives me something to search out .

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiife View Post
    Hi auscab , how about using an open ended spanner of the correct size!


    Could work with a bit of sharpening smiife

    The right adjustable wrench or shifter re ground may be a way ??

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by powderpost View Post
    Thanks Jim
    That's a bit like my my older one . It shows where my one is lacking I think
    IMG_1340.JPGIMG_1341.JPG

    The red arrow points to the bit that rubs . With my one its so thin it itself cuts into the wood with any pressure .That means it just doesn't work .

    Ill have to try and widen that section to match the cutter width Id say . More like the one in your link . Then give it another go .

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiife View Post
    Hi auscab , how about using an open ended spanner of the correct size!
    +1 for this, and just put an edge on one side, instant tenon cutter, obviously the better quality the spanner, the better the edge will keep (in theory)

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Could work with a bit of sharpening smiife

    The right adjustable wrench or shifter re ground may be a way ??
    I wouldn't use a shifter as it will do exactly that, shift. No more same size. Unless it's lockable.

  13. #12
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    Open ended spanner is the easiest. Go a mm over then test or use skew.
    Cheers mick

  14. #13
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    How about setting up your tool rest parrallell and centered to your tail stock and head stock centers. Center your blanks also. Add a stop collar onto your tool. Turn until you hit the collar. Adjust until you get the size needed. After you establish, then turn it until you reach the length of the end size you want. If your part is longer than your tool rest, turn the part around and do the other end. Set aside and turn all pieces until you have all ends done. Remove the collar and finish turn the spindles like you would normally do it. I suppose if you had extra money, you could get yourself a duplicater. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)USA

  15. #14
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    When I turn up tool handles I leave the brass ferrule over the dead(tailstock) Centre.
    Then you have a gauge sitting there as you turn down to size.
    Perhaps you could use a similar idea with a hole drilled in some scrap. Al would be ok.
    As the gauge is at the very end you creep down til it just goes and then it’s parallel turning.
    Another advantage of this captive gauge is you don’t have to search around in the chips and pick up another tool, it’s already in place.
    Re the spanner idea the lower (cutting) jaw would have to be ground back shorter than the top by a reasonable amount.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  16. #15
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    I had just about given up on this tool . Like I said above, the bit that rubs at the back was to thin and cut into the wood . Seeing Jim's link in his post above post made me give it some attention today .
    I heated and twisted the end around . Re hammered on the anvil and then re ground it .

    Another thing I saw the other day was a guy giving his scraping tool some negative rake . I did that to this blade as well . Gave it a test run , then adjusted twice. Its cutting very nicely now . Works perfectly . Ill either use it to get me dead on, or use it to get me to tight and maybe slightly taper the start of the tenon by hand .

    I'm making two skew chisels atm . The round bar type that Ive seen some instagram guys using . The brass ferrule is for one of these two chisels . I just set the sizing tool to the outside and finished the handles at that . They are spending the night on the heater and will be finish turned in the morning and have the rings fitted . So the sizer had its first real job . Its a time saver .

    Its may be interesting to see if the comb type is good too . I may try it and compare . It seems there is no other tool though ?

    IMG_1341.JPGIMG_1365.JPGIMG_1369.JPGIMG_1370.JPGIMG_1373.JPG

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