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Thread: Resin bowl

  1. #16
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    So the unmasking went well, a bit of sanding and some prep for mounting. There was a small air leak which continued whilst the resin set (you can see the bubble trail) but as only my second one, it’s not bad and the mother in law might not even notice.

    i have however learnt what not to do now.

    so I glued a foot onto the base to mount in the lathe, which I will then glue to a face plate then begin the arduous journey of shaping.

    1A6B0F91-72EB-41FC-AAAB-CD9C704BD710.jpg 62D44F33-756C-4552-B424-AC819D8FB14D.jpg 608D581A-30C3-4947-82D8-4F3809A3B2DA.jpg 48E20794-0C0A-4C08-BA47-2FD8209A7853.jpg B1875CCB-E371-4057-B5A2-753C65A06492.jpg
    I will still wait for a few more days for let the resin cure some more.

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  3. #17
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    Looking good. Look forward to seeing how it turns out in a week or so.

  4. #18
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    morhers in law are always blowing bubbles. she will love it.

  5. #19
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    I started on Sunday and started to tough out/tidy up the mountainous sides, squared up the face/lip for the face plate board.

    6198ECA2-3334-4EBB-A7BD-298ACF1FE91D.jpg C95829C9-BC0C-407D-93E8-D6C13BA860FA.jpg 54F15FE4-678B-492E-949E-3515745988F5.jpg D7E1A6A9-3875-4343-AA11-11DC02D3B9C9.jpg

  6. #20
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    A little further along, found some voids which I will fill. i gave a quick wipe of metho to see how it looks. But a question to ask all.

    CF07D509-25DE-4C00-9421-1B67C671574D.jpg F4CE9A25-22DE-448B-AFBF-8107E0E41419.jpg AC0DAA86-9FA2-4CC2-88C7-595C92E1D259.jpg

    the question is, when I have smoothed and sanded it and go to turn it round, should I keep the foot I have epoxy’d on or should I cut a recess for the still chuck?

  7. #21
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    Definitely starting to show what it will look like now. As to your question, my normal procedure would be to completely finish the bottom of the bowl before turning. This would include forming whatever style of flat "base" you intend the bowl to stand on. As part of that process, I would probably cut a mortise in the bottom of the bowl for attachment to the chuck for inside turning and finishing.
    BUT ......... I have never turned a bowl this large, nor one with this much epoxy in its composition - so a mortise may not be the best way to go in this case. I'll also be interested to see what others have to say about this.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fumbler View Post
    A little further along, found some voids which I will fill. i gave a quick wipe of metho to see how it looks. But a question to ask all.

    CF07D509-25DE-4C00-9421-1B67C671574D.jpg F4CE9A25-22DE-448B-AFBF-8107E0E41419.jpg AC0DAA86-9FA2-4CC2-88C7-595C92E1D259.jpg

    the question is, when I have smoothed and sanded it and go to turn it round, should I keep the foot I have epoxy’d on or should I cut a recess for the still chuck?
    Fumbler, that's looking real good. You are doing a darn good job on that piece. One question I have is why did you use a piece of glued up wood for your Rim Plate/Rim Chuck? It seems it could warp and cause a not so centered piece when done. Is there a lip on it the hold the form centered on the Rim Plate?

    I would remove that piece you used for a tenon, but only after you turned the inside to finish. Then I would reverse the form and the tenon until it's about 1/2" OD, sand and polish the OD, and then remove it from the lathe and finish that 1/2" area. This can and should be between centers up until you are done and ready to remove the Nub. ........... Jerry (in Tucson)USA

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubsnstubs View Post
    Fumbler, that's looking real good. You are doing a darn good job on that piece. One question I have is why did you use a piece of glued up wood for your Rim Plate/Rim Chuck? It seems it could warp and cause a not so centered piece when done. Is there a lip on it the hold the form centered on the Rim Plate?

    I would remove that piece you used for a tenon, but only after you turned the inside to finish. Then I would reverse the form and the tenon until it's about 1/2" OD, sand and polish the OD, and then remove it from the lathe and finish that 1/2" area. This can and should be between centers up until you are done and ready to remove the Nub. ........... Jerry (in Tucson)USA
    Jerry, thanks, it was the only piece I had on hand that was big enough, it’s old laminated bench top and dead flat. Not it was epoxy’d on flat / flat. I am fearful however of the foot that I glued on, coming off or separating whilst turning. I’m thinking that a 6mm or 1/4” for you state-side folk recess might be safe enough to bury the chuck into. Remembering I will be in the open face of the bowl when trimming the inside, and not to the side whe it it could potentially hit me.

    i am close to the right shape but if you zoom in you‘ll see a few pot holes and air pockets which i will endeavour to fill and then finish both sanding to 1000 or higher before remounting.

    if you see in the earlier pics there is a block on the inside of the bowl for the tail stock to press against, this will be one of the last things I remove. And there’s still enough space for me to squeeze the round carbide in there to clean out the bowl face. It was over 20mm thick so there’s plenty of meat to hold in place.

  10. #24
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    Happy new year eager listeners, although I don’t come bearing gifts. I finally got the courage to step up, fill the voids, sand, remove the foot and cut the tenon.
    8E493516-6E68-418C-B421-1CE1BDD0CA02.jpg 21791813-6BD4-44A3-84E3-5C0F7F3AB15E.jpg 8623BBFA-D1C5-4DFC-89B8-4FCD26F79844.jpg

    However, after beginning to cut the tenon, it decided to grow wings. It’s now ready for me to re-assess.

    Luckily, it stayed in one piece so I’ll need to re-assess.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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