Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default Restoring dovetail jaws

    These need a crisp edge and flat face for best holding.

    Terry Martin wrote about how to do this some time ago in Aus. Wood Review.

    I was wary but had to bring into play a very worn 50mm set on a SN2 chuck. It was kindly supplied by a forum member as I'd bought a bare chuck.

    I'd already learned (once!) that HSS beats medium tensile steel.

    So today I had a go at facing off the worn Dovetail clean up.jpgset and it was easy peasy. Just used a HSS scraper as you would on wood. Light touch, medium speed in this case.

    This will do the job I need but I imagine the outside of the dovetail could be treated in the same way providing you put some packing in to ensure true circumference and reduce the chance of a disastrous catch.
    Cheers, Ern

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Nowra, NSW, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,003

    Default

    Very interesting. Filed away for future reference.
    Thanks for sharing.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Emerald, QLD
    Posts
    4,488

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    ..............This will do the job I need but I imagine the outside of the dovetail could be treated in the same way providing you put some packing in to ensure true circumference and reduce the chance of a disastrous catch.
    Good advice Ern! Not sure about the SN stuff but closing the centre of the jaws on to an 8mm diameter rod will bring Vicmark jaws to a proper circle - the butt of an 8mm drill bit suffices with the nasty end poked into the headstock
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Pluto
    Posts
    72

    Default

    I use a metal bit installed in a handle which also holds ½” scrapers, bedans, etc. The bits come in a wide variety of shapes and are usually about $3. I modified slightly a set of Nova 35mm spigot jaws.
    The bits are only about 4” long but that is long enough. Your turning tools will work but the carbide bits also make quick work of brass or copper ferrules or other items.

    According to Nova, the kerf made when the billet is split for jaws is 2mm. For myself I would cut some 2mm thick hardwood strips and place them between the jaws. I haven’t tried it but it should work. You may still get a slight bump but it shouldn’t grab with light cuts.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    Thanks for the packing tips folks.

    My only prior encounter of this sort was an accidental meeting of bowl gouge and the outside of edge of shark jaws. The gouge sliced small fillets off the high points!
    Cheers, Ern

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mareeba Far Nth Qld
    Age
    83
    Posts
    3,070

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TTIT View Post
    Good advice Ern! Not sure about the SN stuff but closing the centre of the jaws on to an 8mm diameter rod will bring Vicmark jaws to a proper circle - the butt of an 8mm drill bit suffices with the nasty end poked into the headstock
    Good tip and just in time to.. DAMHIK..
    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    If you do this just do a very thorough clean-up of the bed afterwards.
    Cheers, Ern

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Eugene, OR USA
    Posts
    322

    Default

    After seeing 's clips on chuck maintenance, I was going to ask him about this. I do remember some thing about putting small shims in between the jaws for cleaning up the dove tail angles. I have several tool marks in my chuck jaws. Mostly from my McNaughton.

    robo hippy

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bristol, UK
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,540

    Default

    I've never tried to 'scrape' jaws.

    My preferred method is a Mill File (for levelling saw teeth) while running at a low speed.
    Dragonfly
    No-one suspects the dragonfly!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
    Posts
    4,330

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dr4g0nfly View Post
    I've never tried to 'scrape' jaws.

    My preferred method is a Mill File (for levelling saw teeth) while running at a low speed.
    Good topic, Ern.

    I've done it both ways;

    The CT tip is quicker, but have gotten a few edge chips off the tip, and the surface is so-so when done by me.

    The file tends to follow the ups and downs, so I made up a jig to steady it, and is slower, but leaves a nicer finish.

    I found a combination works well; tip followed by file.

    But then, I'm not much of a metal worker.

    Either way I use a face mask.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



Similar Threads

  1. Looking for Pin jaws
    By benupton in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10th August 2011, 05:11 PM
  2. New Vic Jaws
    By NeilS in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 18th April 2010, 07:56 PM
  3. Genuine 75mm dovetail bowl jaws?
    By NeilS in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 14th February 2009, 01:21 PM
  4. Is a Glued Dovetail Joint Stronger Than An Unglued Dovetail
    By echnidna in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 29th July 2006, 10:03 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •