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  1. #1
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    Default Sanding technique

    I don't seem to have any trouble when sanding hardwoods such as Blackwood, redgum, burls even banksia, but when it comes to the softer woods i.e. Cedar, Blue Spruce etc I seem to get a ton of fine scratches.
    I'm currently working on a bowl which I think could be Oregon (confirmation would be appreciated) and it's driving me nuts trying to get rid of sanding marks. I've tried hand held, rotary (powered and unpowered), I throw the paper away the minute it becomes the slightest bit clogged. I blow the piece down with compressed air to get rid of dust, I alternate direction between grits and I've tried sanding sealer between grits. I don't want to oversand because ridges will develop due to the difference in hardness between growth rings. I've bugger all hair as it is and I don't to tear any more out stressing over these damn scratches.
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    What grit are you starting with, then what order of grits are you going up in?
    Cheers

    DJ


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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ's Timber View Post
    What grit are you starting with, then what order of grits are you going up in?
    100, 120, 180, 240 I haven't gone past 240 yet. I go back 2 grits then start again. I blow down with compressed air between grits and also change lathe direction.

    Note: Going off the watch the footy now, be back at 1/4 time
    Last edited by Grumpy John; 4th April 2009 at 03:00 PM. Reason: note added
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  5. #4
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    Default

    I reckon you need to add another grit in between 120 and 180, it's too big a jump for softwood IMO
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

  6. #5
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    Default

    O.K. I'll try a 150 grit. thanks DJ.
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Default

    I also have 150 in that gap but I now try to use a very fine shear scrape so I can start at 180 or 240.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  8. #7
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    Dec 2008
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    Gold Coast
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    Default

    I had the same difficulties with a piece of Coachwood earlier in the week. No matter what i tried I could not get rid of very fine scratches that were visible in some lights. I ended up hand sanding from 240 through to 600 with the grain - the scratches are still there but can't be seen now.

    The guys at the wood turning club gave me a few reasons for this occurring:
    - Softer wood
    - Paper getting too hot during sanding
    - Pressing too hard

    I hope this helps.

  9. #8
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    Jan 2008
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    sydney
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    Default

    John
    I found that a good coat of nitro cellulose sealer was a big help on softer woods
    Regards
    Bowl-Basher
    I can turn large lumps of wood into very small bowls

  10. #9
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    Jul 2005
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    Oberon, NSW
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    Default

    If there are minor, but obvious scratches that go against both the grain direction & the sanding/rotation direction, I'll stop the lathe and hand-sand along the grain. Usually, when I start the lathe and resume normal sanding with the same grit, that removes the scratch without needing to drop back a grit.

    It's just a case of catching them when they first appear, not a grit or two later.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    I also have 150 in that gap but I now try to use a very fine shear scrape so I can start at 180 or 240.
    I don't think I've ever started under 180!

    Sometimes, in case of really, really pernicious tear-out that I can't turn out I'll drop down to a gravel rash combo, but that's only as a "tear-out free chisel," not for finish sanding.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    ... I don't think I've ever started under 180! ....
    I'll have to send you a piece of raintree.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  12. #11
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    Default

    I very rarely start below 60
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    I very rarely start below 60
    Only 'cos it is hard to find 36 in velcro backed.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  14. #13
    Join Date
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    Default One for Skew

    Skew,

    I'll save you a small piece of redgum fiddle back and will see whether you can start on 180 grit! It tears out with even the sharpest of scrapers.

    Jeff

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    I'll have to send you a piece of raintree.
    Yes please!
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  16. #15
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    Sep 2007
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    Adelaide rural - South Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bowl-basher View Post
    John
    I found that a good coat of nitro cellulose sealer was a big help on softer woods
    Regards
    Bowl-Basher
    Yeah...! I like to use that stuff also for the same reasons.

    I have also found sometimes steel wool solves the problem!

    Cheers
    RBTCO

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