Thread: What to use for sealing the ends of logs.

I just use old plastic house paint, get it from garage sales. I have used Mobicer M, but as it stays sticky forever, it gets on everything. BTW, what state are you in Richard?

Use a wax emulsion product that generally are made up of 50% wax...50% water
This product is designed for sealing log ends...it is indeed a timber sealer!
'Caltex' sell a product here in OZ, in 20L container...you should easily find someone who sells similar in your neck of the woods...MM

Anchorseal is a usual product in the States; an emulsion of 50% wax and 50% water, water cleanup.

Surplus latex paint takes many applications over time, also water cleanup; cheapest option though.

I've also used canning wax directly.

For all these, you can coat both ends of the log endwise up in a single session, by placing the log on a cluster of spiky gum balls, flipping the log for the second surface. The spikes leave a minimal footprint of the supports.

Cheers,
Joe

Originally Posted by joe greiner

by placing the log on a cluster of spiky gum balls, flipping the log for the second surface. The spikes leave a minimal footprint of the supports.

Never heard of 'Spiky Gum Balls'. Where do you get them from?

Originally Posted by cava

Never heard of 'Spiky Gum Balls'. Where do you get them from?

From trees )

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquidambar_styraciflua

I've used old, thickened paint in the past, and I've also just used PVA wood glue. Both seem to have worked pretty well. No major problems yet.

For the tens of millions of board feet of lumber that come out of our mills, green or blue spray paint is used.
I use left over interior house paint. The sole objective is to slow down the rate of water loss from the cut ends of the log.
Acrylic interior house paint might be best as it will bind with the wet wood surface. Hydrophobic oily stuff should just sit on top.

Most of my wood carvings are western red cedar. Nothing was done to prevent cracking.
Little cracks all over. Ignore them and carve right through them. New totem poles and story poles are done the same.
Chip off 1-2cm sap wood (goes rotten/punky) and start carving, wet or dry.

Another trick is to cut out 1/4 of the log, right to the center.
Most totem poles are like this, only carved over 2/3 of the surface.

Log end sealed with wax emulsion (Australian Blackwood)
Note that the grain orientation has not been obscured...an imperative for the sawmiller!
Understand also,that a lot of paints are indeed toxic,particularly the older variety
Wax n water is a much 'cleaner' choice IMO...MM

I use the cheapest pva glue money can buy. Very impressed so far!

I use a wide variety of whatever I have to hand. Plastic ceiling paint, watered down PVA around 50/50, remnants of varnish in old spray cans, old wipe on poly that is going off mixed with some thinners, even BLO at a pinch, turpentine and styrofoam. There is always something lying around.

Originally Posted by MAPLEMAN

Log end sealed with wax emulsion (Australian Blackwood)
Note that the grain orientation has not been obscured...an imperative for the sawmiller!
Understand also,that a lot of paints are indeed toxic,particularly the older variety
Wax n water is a much 'cleaner' choice IMO...MM

Are you talking about lead paint???? If anyone has a tin of that still I'd be amazed!
I guess we could argue that whatever we use could leach deep into the wood.
Wax is good but just about anything that can create a barrier is just as good.
Don't waste time and money just use whats easily available, cheap and easy to apply!

You won't ever find much paint of any kind or glue to "leach" into the wood since the wood is fresh and full-wet with sap water.
Just clog up the cut end to slow down the rate of water loss. That's about all you can do to reduce the amount of splitting/checking.

I do like the idea of using something fairly grain transparent as an aid for the miller. Old glue?
I don't care as any log pieces I get are quite straight and symmetrical cylinders with predictable grain.

Originally Posted by brainstrust

Are you talking about lead paint???? If anyone has a tin of that still I'd be amazed!
I guess we could argue that whatever we use could leach deep into the wood.
Wax is good but just about anything that can create a barrier is just as good.
Don't waste time and money just use whats easily available, cheap and easy to apply!

Indeed i am talking about paint...and glue or other inorganic compounds.The log gets sliced right...and the due process does produce particulate that not doubt coats the environment and surrounds.I prefer my work area is 'free' of such contaminants hence i think about what products i use...however,each to their own...MM

Originally Posted by Robson Valley

I don't care as any log pieces I get are quite straight and symmetrical cylinders with predictable grain.

I do care because i have often milled logs that have hearts well off centre with somewhat unpredictable grain...and when chasing quarter sawn material that is heart free, it is imperative that i have relatively clear view of the grain orientation...MM