Thread: No more sharpening chisels :-)

Got a nice little package in the mail a couple of days ago. Thanks very much.
Now just have to make a better handle than the bodgy job I used to give the tips a test run.

Well wont you know it a good deal and here i am in the U S of A so to far but the Ci1 tool sells fore about 199.00 us dollars over here and it has the specks that you all are talking about. i seen the videos on the tool and i want one real bad but also i can not afford the store bought one so if my boys do not buy the inserts and the screw from Easy Wood Tools here in the U.S. i will buy them myself and make a tool like that.

Oooley dooley $199USD thats expensive, darned expensive. Defintely build your own ar that rate, or find somebody else to do it....... I think know some body who could...........

OOPPPss. I hit the wrong button it is $119.00 still expensive. sorry about that i got in a hurry as i type one fingered and i have to look at the keys to be able to type. I am a hunt and peck typer with one finger at a time. kind of slow but it gets it done.

OOPPPss. I hit the wrong button it is $119.00 still expensive. s

me too! Hunt and Peck School of Fine Typing.

But as you say still dear for what it is, no doubt some knock offs will surface at budget prices.

yea. the copy caters will be out there soon. if not already so you need to try one of the real thing first then try the other one then you know which one is best.when you heat the insert to weld it on to the metal bar you will lose some of the temper and it might not stay sharp as long. i personally would not heat the insert. use a bench grinder on the bar stock to get it flat. The bar stock does not have to be hard steel the regular soft steel will do. the tip or insert will take all the abuse and it should be able to take it.

Look what the cat brought in! A 2 year old thread preceding our current debate, which confirms that the issue whether carbide cutters made for steel work well for timber or not has been going on for a while. I am starting to believe that once we are agreed that their purpose is roughing ("rough" being the operative word) and the "money cut" must always be made with more refined tools, it does not matter much. As somebody else said, if you can get them dirt cheap and resharpen them, there is no real advantage in buying special ones made for timber, given that there is little need for sharpening anyway. So, the real point here is that, as hobbyists, the fun is in the trying, the finer points of relative effectiveness are rather moot.

Originally Posted by ralphtaff

. The bar stock does not have to be hard steel the regular soft steel will do. the tip or insert will take all the abuse and it should be able to take it.

Does not have to be HSS but needs to be hardened steel, the downward force on the bar is rather strong. Mild steel could bend too much.

Shafts square or round can be made most things. But if you want some sort of quality, it would be best to go to high tensile or some variety of carbon steel.

I see the C1 Rougher uses stainless and most likely its 316 or similar as this grade. this very stiff and the rust proof aspect perhaps has a suggestion of quality about it.

But there are superior steels available such as high tensile 4140, price wise probably a bit dearer. Then there are a large range of heat treatable carbon steels just as good if not better.


As to TCT etc. Its amazing that this technology has been around in engineering for 30-40 years. In the wood industry probably a similar time, but in wood turning its relatively new.

All the C1 inventor has done has capitalize on exisiting technology and good luck to him.But many will instantly recognise many parrallels from there related industries and away we go with the copies. Then given the number of exotic cutting tips and materials out there we will see that the C1 is just scratching at the surface.

But none of these exotics will come cheap, it will be a balance of durability over cost. I guess for most hobbyists it will be too dear. But for wood turning industry in general we aint seen nothing yet.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Does not have to be HSS but needs to be hardened steel, the downward force on the bar is rather strong. Mild steel could bend too much.

Nope the 10.mm. round or square is fine as I have been using for some weeks now and not a quiver to it . The McJing one appears to standard not super according to the colour of the sparks and the ease of cutting and drilling . some folks are using stainless but that is expensive overkill also cheers WW Wally

Originally Posted by woodwork wally

Nope the 10.mm. round or square is fine as I have been using for some weeks now and not a quiver to it . The McJing one appears to standard not super according to the colour of the sparks and the ease of cutting and drilling . some folks are using stainless but that is expensive overkill also cheers WW Wally

Not everybody is as skilled as you are, WWW. I managed to shatter a spotted gum handle trying the insert on a ss bar, mild steel would have bent. Of course, how soft or hard is a bit like the proverbial piece of string if we do not know the specific grade.
I agree with Hughie that ss is more for show than actual effectiveness, though.