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  1. #1
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    Jun 2003
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    Default Sheer scraping - big or little bowl gouge?

    Hi folks,

    After a couple of days struggling with tearout on some soft, curly new guinea rosewood, I am thinking I'm going to embark on trying to embark on a project to improve my sheer scraping technique.

    The first thing will be practice, but I'm also willing to throw some money at the problem - thinking about it, it seems like a big bowl gouge would make this easier... Is that accurate?

    Cheers,

    Danny

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  3. #2
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    Apr 2005
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    Nerang Queensland
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    Default

    I find it easier, but mainly because it has a bigger wing to use, thus I get more sharp edge by rotating slightly. You can do with any though provided they are sharp.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    San Francisco, California
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    Default

    I use a thin card scraper and it does a really good job.

  5. #4
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    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    Default

    Do you mount it on a handle or anything handyrn? Seems like it'd be a bit scary to just have the card in bare fingers next to spinning wood!

  6. #5
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    Feb 2008
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    Nth of Newcastle
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    I often use a curved cabinet scraper on the bottom of bowls, down hill, with the grain, STATIONARY !

  7. #6
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    Ah! Sure, stationary I can see it. Particularly if you are already well practiced with card scrapers!

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rtyuiop View Post
    - thinking about it, it seems like a big bowl gouge would make this easier... Is that accurate?
    I have big gouges (as in 1") all the way down to small gouges (as in 1/4"), but tend to just use whatever sized gouge I have been using or is sharp.

    You can use any straight or fluted tool for shear scraping on the outside. In my experience, a good well swept back bowl gouge works well on the inside. The sweet spot is where the edge is at 45deg or higher angle (ie closer to the tip). A light touch and wispy shavings are what you are after.

    Although unorthodox, I find that you can also cut against the grain if your shear scraping cut is light enough.


    Stay sharp!

    Neil
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
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    Default

    I use a half round thick scraper inside and a slightly curved thick scraper outside of bowls. They are sharpened upside down at about an 80 degree angle to raise a nice burr. They are used slanting down, very, very light cut, taking off tissue paper thin curls.

    Good for one or two passes, then a quick swipe on the grinder.

    If there is room to slant the scraper down, I see no point of a negative rake scraper. Going to the bottom of a tall narrow vessel, yes.

    With some timbers with hard and soft mixed, nothing will do but sand, sand, sand.

    I have a couple of curved stainless steel blades from a scrapped food processor sharpened as above for hand scraping.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  10. #9
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    Jun 2005
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    Townsville. Tropical Nth Qld.
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    Danny, do a utube search on Negative Rake Scrapers. I watched Retired use one at the Prossie Turnout last year and I was sold on their versatility. I had a billet of McJings HSS flat bar, so I knocked one up to try it. I use a lot of Qld Maple, one of the worst furry timbers around and the NRS was so easy to use.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  11. #10
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    Jul 2014
    Location
    Gold Coast Australia
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    I have seen NRS where the grind angle is the same on top andbottom and then others where the bottom angle is the standard grind but the tophas a much smaller grind, just enough to take out a small bevel almost. Isthere a difference in operation between the two or is one better than theother?


  12. #11
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    Yeah, I am a fan of negative rake scrapers - my go to for finishing cuts is a big hefty round hamlet scraper, sharpened with a small bevel on top.

    It's absolutely brilliant for hard timbers (and acrylic pens), but isn't as good on the soft stuff, like the NGR I have been playing with this week!

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtyuiop View Post
    Yeah, I am a fan of negative rake scrapers - my go to for finishing cuts is a big hefty round hamlet scraper, sharpened with a small bevel on top.

    It's absolutely brilliant for hard timbers (and acrylic pens), but isn't as good on the soft stuff, like the NGR I have been playing with this week!
    NGR???
    Crocy.

  14. #13
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    Jun 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Croc View Post
    NGR???
    Crocy.
    Sorry - new guinea rosewood (not a real rosewood in case anyone is confused).

  15. #14
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    Today I took some photos of the bowls which provoked this question, and decided to share!





    Cheers,

    Danny

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtyuiop View Post
    Today I took some photos of the bowls which provoked this question, and decided to share!

    Cheers,

    Danny
    I take it the area on the right side near the bottom of the top left bowl in the group shot is what gave you the trouble.

    Hand scraping with a curved cabinet scraper in the problem area and blending into the surrounding area, along with hand sanding the area with the lathe stopped is one solution.

    There are many ways to get to the same place. I think we have to figure out what works best for us and keep refining and practicing.

    The bowls are beautiful. Nice simple shape that shows off the figure.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

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