I'm wondering how you guys sign the bases of your work. Do you use a hand-held engraver, or a pen? texter? etc?

Please post your ideas. I should have posted this earlier, as I am taking all my work into FORM tommorow, and I havent signed any of my work. See how many ideas I can get tonight. Some bases are flat, but most are curved with beads etc:

Thanks,

Joash

Use the Razortip woodburning pen with the smallest ball tip pen,

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Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. http://www.cws.au.com Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut
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quick..quick
great idea...now where can I find one of them:confused:

http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/..._id=1107144911

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thanks for that

any other ideas.....

G'Day Joash

Try some ideas in http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...read.php?t=338

Cheers Bernie

I use a super fine point Sharpie. Before the final coat I Initial and date the piece.

I have seen where fellows scribe their name , species of wood and exact date, etc. But I feel it clouds the issue and perhaps boosts an ego better than finish the piece. I have been looking for a trademark to use instead of Initials. (As are most clay & china pieces)

I have seen where you can print (in reverse) with your inkjet printer, a Signature or Logo and then transfer that image to the work using a hot iron similar to a wood burner with a fat flat tip.
This one is from www.Rockler.com

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...GFHCDADADADBDB

I'm not connected to Rockler, aside from drooling in their store, and think this is a cool way to sign a piece once I secure a trademark.

I use a mix of things,

- a "branding iron" with my initials that I use for small things. It's quite hard to use as it sometimes burns in more on one side than the other. I also have a Japanese branding iron made for cakes that brands a small maple leap - cute, but also hard to use.

- a set of letter/number punches but they are not easy to see on some types of timber.

- have also used a Dremel with an engraver type tip.

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ok, thanks, put some photos on later

thanks again

Joash

Joash, I use a cheap crafter's woodburner that I bought at Wal-Mart for about 20USD. I sharpened the point and then smoothed the tip so it would sort of glide over the wood. Works okay on all types of wood... except it really ain't too cool on endgrain.

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Al
Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.

Joash, I started out using a roller-ball ink pen. Then I used a wood burning kit (rather like a soldering pencil), but it did not have the wattage (heat) to burn in the words/numbers unless I moved in very slow motion. Jim Carroll's suggestion about the Razortip pyrography instrument, and the small ball tip is a good one. I use the Burnmaster Eagle, and a Detail Master #6A hardwired pen for signing my pieces, and find it to be of excellent quality, and performance. It is a 130-watt, variable output controller, and will burn a fine line as fast as I can write.

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-- Wood Listener--

Joash,

What I am looking at is a small stamp made from brass that I can heat up and sign it that way. It will have dual aspect of signature and logo as well

http://www.jackiechankids.com/files/Chop.htm

I 'll fit it to a soldering iron.. I gotta a couple of spares lying around


It works out simpler and quicker than actual writting, plus the machine work/engraving is not that expensive

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hughie

Dont worry about life cos' your not gonna get out of it alive!

engraving or burning is the go in your case. I also engrave on different metals, which I then shape and fasten to my items.

I have also used a punch set directly on the timber or metal plate.

If all else fails, a texta might be your immediate option.


cheers,
conwood

What's a texta?
signed,
Clueless
)

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Al
Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.

one of those things that has a lot of ink, and that little kids love to get a hold of