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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,745

    Default How to Stabilise Spalted Wood?

    Hi All,

    I have a partially spalted mallet that I made out of some unknown wood from the timber pile.

    Having been done on my panel saw as an experiment, it is very rough and needs re-turning on a lathe.

    However, it has split all the way through and needs some sort of stabilising prior to re-turning. Being my first quasi mallet, it has some sentimental value and I would like to persevere with it - I know that I can't/shouldn't use it for hard work for fear of it breaking apart.

    Matt Cremona @ the 1.57m mark refers to CPS to stabilise his spalted wood.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zqIpylUMR8

    Do we have similar here in Australia or would a West System work just as well?

    Thanks All.

    George

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    If your mallet has split in two pieces and fits tightly together glue back together with white or yellow carpenters glue, let dry 48 hours, wrap a couple of turns of masking tape around the ends, put on the lathe and turn the center part to your liking and apply finish. Let sit overnight and put tape around the center part and remove tape from ends and turn and finish.

    The above is to keep from getting a mouth full of mallet parts.

    Part off from the drive and tail centers, hand sand and finish, install handle if a two part mallet.

    Do not use as a mallet as the spalted parts are mushy and will chip or get damaged.

    If you want to use as a mallet, you might could find polyester or epoxy resin at a boat builder or boat repair place. You would then glue together with resin, then soak mallet with thin or diluted resin, then turn and finish. You will be working with a hard plastic.

    You could also glue together with CA, cyanoacrylate glue, super glue, crazy glue. If the split does not come together, glue the part that fits best, let dry and then pack the crack with sawdust, or coffee grounds and CA. Dribble CA in the crack, sift in filler, dribble in more CA, pack tightly, repeat until full. Then soak spalted parts with CA, keep applying to an area until it pools so you get it soaked as deep as possible.

    After all of this I still would not use it as a mallet.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    There are thermosetting resins like "Cactus Juice". Vacuum perfusion and baking will work and it is expensive.
    Spalted wood is fungus-rotted wood and the structural strength isn't there any more.
    Not for work in service.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,745

    Default

    Found an alternative to CPS today, Hempel Sealer @ $36 for a two pack tin combination.

    It was recommended by a ships chandler who also sells the West Systems products.

    Seems quite runny, and was just getting sticky after circa 4 hours - so plenty of open time. Hopefully it will do the trick for me.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    Another product that my Partner uses is Earls Wood Hardner, she uses it for her paper beads. Works on a similar principle to CA glue.
    Our local Mitre 10 store carries it so I presume the green shed will have it also.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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