Thread: Staunton Chess Set

All,

It's been about 6 or so years since I've posted a WIP, so with a little shed time coming up I thought that i would shoot a few photos along the way.
I've teaching the tin-lids (8 & 5 years old) chess, and the eldest is really getting into it .
But our current "travel sized" set is woeful, and whilst I bored out the base of the pieces and added weight, they are still, well, rubbish!

So I thought to my self, if I had a chuck I'd have a crack at a set. So i posted on the forums in the marketplace for a scroll chuck and John replied with a few days and "wig-wam-bam" I've a new to me scroll chuck.

Enough jibber-jabber, here we go!

This is the stimulus photograph ripped off Google, search term "staunton chess set"

Chess Set (34).jpg

A little optimistic? Sure, but why not.
So i looked through the timber store (read that as "pile on the floor") for something suitable.
I found enough Walnut for the blacks but nothing for the white yet...

I spent a night enlarging the above picture and scaling some measurements with what size I wanted.
Chess Set (7).jpg Chess Set (11).jpg

Have a look at the knight! I'm dreading that one.

Once i had all the measurements, i rough turned all the stock to a little over the largest base diameter which was 47mm for the King, which meant a close shave from 50mm stock.

Here is a photo of my set up. Sorry for the mess

Chess Set (5).jpg
During the day this south facing window is a great source of soft light, but at night I can't get enough light! What do you guys use as a light source for turning at night?

Once everything is in order i sized my calipers to suit and labeled them... this makes my work MUCH faster. Also the template taped onto some card for longevity.
Chess Set (6).jpg
Also in the photo are the tools that I'm using. All P&N 25mm skew, 6mm parting tool and spindle gouge.

Here's the action shots!

Blank mounted
1. Bore 3mm hole 40mm deep. This will accept a screw for re-mounting once the base is turned.
Chess Set (8).jpg

2. Bore a 13mm hole 12mm deep. This is for a weight (hunk of metal bar) that'll be glued in at the end for ballast, and "feel"
Chess Set (9).jpg

3. True up the base, as the base will be un-seen i just part it with the parting tool and I've made them slightly concave for good bard contact.
Chess Set (10).JPG

4. caliper the diameter of the base. Mark location of where the depth is required.
Chess Set (12).jpgChess Set (13).jpg

5. Start shaping the base.
Chess Set (14).jpg

6. Next diameter. I use the calipers in on hand reaching over the back and the parting tool in my other hand, at the same time.
repeat at various locations according to template.
Chess Set (15).jpgChess Set (16).jpgChess Set (17).jpg

7. Using the spindle gouge, really trying hard to match the curve by eye.
Chess Set (18).jpgChess Set (19).jpg

8. More caliper work and some tiny tiny beads! I need a 3mm parting tool!
Chess Set (20).jpgChess Set (21).jpg

9. This is as far as I'll go mounted this way, so I give it a good sanding at this stage as when i remount the piece the other way around, it is never perfectly true.
Chess Set (22).jpgChess Set (23).jpg


10. This is my "screw chuck" custom made for this task, I turned an off cut so that it forms a tenon that will match with the mortise that i bored in step 2. It's a tight fit and the screw that is located in the center and tightens to pull the piece down tight, secure and true.
Chess Set (24).jpgChess Set (25).jpg

11. Once turned around and mounted on the screw chuck I gently tighten the scroll chuck and locate the live center at the tail stock end to ensure that the piece is mounted as true as i can. Once the live center is in place i tighten the scroll chuck. remove the tail stock and saw off the waste.
Chess Set (26).jpgChess Set (27).jpg

12. Time for one of the best bits! Now i'm not sure if the original was an actual sphere or not (it looks kind of squashed), but i'm not that good anyways, so a really fat bead will do for the top

(wow, look at the state of my beloved skew. time for a hone. )
Chess Set (28).jpgChess Set (29).jpg

13. A really good sand, using 320 grit, don't have to use less (rougher) as the finish off the tool is pretty good. Apply finish.
This is organ-oil mixed with walnut stain. just to take out some of the variance in the colour between the pieces.
Chess Set (30).jpgChess Set (31).jpg

14. Finished. Needs the weight glued in and felt on the base. I'll do this once all the pieces are complete... about this time next year!
Chess Set (32).jpg

I've completed 5 pawns thus far and I think that i'm going to have to turn about 3 sets worth to find some that look the same! Similar is easy, same... well not yet.
The first one took about 90 minutes, number 4 took 55 minutes. Yes i timed it.
Figuring about 1 hour per piece, plus knight and other carving time... 60+ hours I figure, then the board to match.


Chess Set (33).jpg Chess Set (3).jpg


I'll update this thread as I make some progress on each of the pieces. perhaps not in such detail, unless you guys would like me to, then I'm happy to oblige. )

Happy turning.

Steve

PS. Here is our current set next to my new pawn.

Chess Set (2).jpg