Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 28 of 28
-
31st October 2014, 08:44 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Location
- Gippsland Victoria
- Posts
- 706
Frugal Woodturner
There is a book called "The Frugal Woodturner" by Ernie Conover that you would find available in your local library system via an interlibrary loan.
He discusses ways of making your own tools its quite interesting.
BillLast edited by steamingbill; 31st October 2014 at 08:44 PM. Reason: added n to erNie
-
31st October 2014 08:44 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
31st October 2014, 10:29 PM #17
No idea where you are Viking code, but you also have Steelmark Eagle & Globe in Westall 95492666. It looks like you can get yourself some lengths from oldgreybeard now anyhow.
Attaching your cutting tip using a screw would be the best way as you can then easily rotate it when blunt or replace it. This way, no heat is involved that would change the tensile strength.
The main problem with mild steel is that it will vibrate due to its lack of tensile strength. I guess this could lead to fatigue failure over a long period of time, if you persisted with it that long.
-
1st November 2014, 12:14 AM #18Novice
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Canada
- Posts
- 18
I made a couple of the larger carbide cutters last year using 1/2" square bar I found at the local hardware store (not stainless steel just regular cold rolled steel). It's plenty strong enough for turning and easy to work with (grinding the end and tapping some threads for the cutter). Made the handles from some hard maple and they are really solid. I can post pictures later if you are interested.
-
1st November 2014, 10:26 AM #19
If you do a search I have several articles on making your own hollowing tools. Plus one on a brief description of the type of tungsten carbide tips that are generally around.
With the recent new format for the forum, I 'm hopeless at finding anything.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
-
1st November 2014, 10:33 AM #20
It kinda depends on the over hang, I tend to go up a size 13mm or 14,16 if its available.
But if look around for old linear bearing shafts they are either flame or induction hardened. Then ground and some are hard chromed to boot. These make excellent hollowing bars, the hardness is not a problem as you can localize the hardness by applying heat to area you want to cut or drill. Generally if you get it to a deep blue your on your way if not then cherry red and let it cool down.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
-
1st November 2014, 01:44 PM #21
-
1st November 2014, 04:54 PM #22
-
3rd November 2014, 10:52 AM #23GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
- Posts
- 2,327
The Frugal Woodturner is still being sold:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1565234340/...l_6ayztyski7_b
I looked up the safety of the ebookee site, read comments below and make your own choice:
https://www.mywot.com/en/scorecard/ebookee.org#page-1
I think it is better to get the book from the library or buy a new or used copy.
Ernie is still teaching: http://www.conoverworkshops.com/wwprivate.shtml
Those of us who are trying to make our fortune turning, need all the help we can get.
BUY THE BOOK!!Last edited by dai sensei; 3rd November 2014 at 08:06 PM. Reason: Hughie's post was deleted by request, so reference also deleted
So much timber, so little time.
Paul
-
8th November 2014, 03:06 PM #24
Cutters
For cutters, rather than buying original 'Easy' or 'Sorby' etc, this guys prices are hard to beat:
http://azcarbide.com/
To use them on a Sorby Turnmaster, the tool head needs to be modified slightly, but they fit the other brands without mods. I have a round one on an Easy Finisher, and it cuts as well as the original cutter.
A touch-up with a diamond hone after each use is well worthwhile, too, regardless of brand. Makes a huge difference. A properly sharpened cutter leaves a surprisingly clean surface.
Originally Posted by VikingCode
(The head unscrews and is indexed to tilt 45 degrees in either direction for shear scraping.)
Personally, I'd much prefer flat-bottomed shafts. One less thing to keep an eye on.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
8th November 2014, 05:04 PM #25Novice
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- n.s.w.
- Age
- 70
- Posts
- 16
you can also buy stainless steel for make a keyway form bolt suppliers in either metric or imperial in all different sizes and is in 300mm lengths
regards
penguin
-
9th November 2014, 10:44 PM #26
For what it is worth, I have made numerous turning tools, mostly scraper type, from mild steel. These have had pieces of machine hack saw blade silver soldered to the top for the cutting edge. The size of the mild steel varied from 35mm x 10mm to 12mm x 12mm. I have not had any evidence if fatigue or fracturing over a period of 20 years.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
-
11th November 2014, 07:18 AM #27Derpaderpa
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 80
Hi guys, illness in the family has prevented me from pursuing this further in the last week. Yay chemo and such. And then unrelated, I lost my voice a bit over a week ago and it still hasn't returned in force so it sounds like I'm gargling marbles when I'm on the phone! If only the suppliers I'd found could answer emails
Yeah, okay, I guess that'd be ok Thats bigger than anything we've tackled so far, so I think that'd "just" do the trick.
There are a couple in the local area that have mild steel, one that has stainless, but the vast majority are all in Dandenong/right near Bohlers (which is too far for me to get to). Argh!
(and from here is where I start complaining about the weird quote features that won't actually generate the 'quote' for the posts I want until I submit this reply)
I'll see if I can find a copy of the book Hughie/Paul39, it looks like a good one to have around.
@Hermit, AZCarbide looks good - much cheaper than EWT cutters locally, and in all the shapes. I've seen a few people order from Carbide Depot, but AZCarbide prices are a bit better and come with the screw. Global Tooling is cheaper again (for square), but no detailer/diamond shape - not sure if the geometry is any different on the rest though.
I've found Williamstown Metal also have an ebay store which *gasp* lets me see prices on the internet. And (decent) delivery rates. Who would have thought that could be a thing in this day and age!? While they're stainless length is 300mm, I'll shoot through an email to see if they've got anything longer (and 316).
-
11th November 2014, 08:33 AM #28SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Location
- Mt Waverley Vic 3149
- Age
- 81
- Posts
- 679
I received the 4140 x 400mm lenghts yesterday thru Bolhers via Springvale Steel - steel, cutting and pickup of 6m lenght from Bohler in Dandenong ended up at $3.00 (incl GST) per lenght. (I had been a customer of Springvale Steel spending in excess of $10,000 per month when I had my business in Springvale and still receive "mates rates" for my occassional purchases)
There are 8 lenghts available at $3.00 ea pick up Mt Waverley 3149. PM with postcode for delivery cost.
Bob
Similar Threads
-
What steel for brazed carbide tooling?
By Ben Dono in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 35Last Post: 2nd February 2014, 02:01 PM -
Carbide tip Turning Tools
By Mulgabill in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 4Last Post: 17th December 2011, 04:29 PM -
anybody got carbide blanks?/scraper making
By Sazman in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 9Last Post: 28th January 2011, 06:46 PM -
Newby, HSS, or carbide + tools
By lather in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 112Last Post: 28th August 2010, 03:26 PM -
Carbide insert tools
By Frank&Earnest in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 52Last Post: 7th October 2009, 12:52 PM