Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 13 of 13
Thread: Tantung Scrapers
-
24th September 2015, 12:05 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Nth of Newcastle
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 811
Tantung Scrapers
A couple of years ago I got some tipped scrapers in a job lot, and they hold an edge much better than HSS, much, much better.
I assumed they were tipped with Stellite or Tantung. See first pic.IMG_20150924_103453.jpgIMG_20150924_100306.jpg
So I looked around, the only supplier in AU I could find wanted $100 for a 150mm piece but I found used metal cutoff blades in USA stamped
VR/Wesson Tantung "G" I thought I'd make a couple of bigger scrapers from one piece and sell the other two in the Market Place here.
I'm assuming I just silversolder bits on the end of big chunks of mild steel. Any advice, has anyone done this ? Cheers Phil
-
24th September 2015 12:05 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
24th September 2015, 01:31 PM #2
Wouldn't a decent screw do the job ?? I'm thinking with solder, when you go to put a edge back onto the pieces, that little heat would weaken the joint somewhat ? Just a thought.
-
24th September 2015, 02:01 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Nth of Newcastle
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 811
I am certain that a decent screw will fix many problems... but the old scrapers I have show no signs of de laminating. I think solder would be easier than trying to drill this stuff. Robohippy talks of glueing with 2 pac epoxy !
-
24th September 2015, 02:21 PM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- Melbourne Australia
- Posts
- 230
You will most likely have issues trying to drill the hole in it also.
-
24th September 2015, 08:58 PM #5
I have been making scraping tools for more than 20 years, from conventional mild steel bars with pieces of heavy machine hack saw blade, silver soldered on top. They hold a good edge and hot wheel grinding does not affect the edge holding qualities of the hack saw blade, which is high speed steel. I really do not think that hot wheel grinding would get any where near the heat required for de-lamination.
In fact for some of the smaller tools, I have used pieces of a hand held hack saw blade for the cutting edge.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
-
24th September 2015, 10:22 PM #6
-
24th September 2015, 10:57 PM #7Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Location
- Bargara Queensland
- Posts
- 82
Pommyphil, about 15 years ago, the region of the Sydney Woodturners Guild that I attended had a "scraper day" where we did in great numbers what you are talking about. The HSS we used came (free) from one of our members who worked at the time for a company (Kimberley Clark) that makes disposable nappies and the like. The HSS came from the blades of their guillotines, which, once the edge was lost, was discarded and replaced. We did what your photo shows, and the tips were laid onto mild steel and silver soldered on. Grinding has had no bad effects after 15 years. I don't use scrapers a lot, but still have the scrapers I made back then, and they hold a lovely burr after grinding, and cut fine curly shavings on most timbers. I still have a couple of pieces of the HSS bars, which look very much like the pieces in your second photo. My pieces have no identifiers on them, but are 25mm wide and 3mm thick. I am in the Penrith area, and if you are in the area, can call and have a look. Probably a free bit here you might like to take home, but don't tell anybody. Doug.
-
25th September 2015, 02:27 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Nth of Newcastle
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 811
Thanks Doug, that's a very kind offer but I have the Tantung now and from what I've read it should hold a fine edge much longer than HSS. I'll scrounge around for some steel bar and silversolder them on.
I suppose that to cut it I must nick it with the grinder then snap it ? I should get 3or4 scrapers from one of the short bits and sell the other two 150mm $30 and 120mm $25 plus postage. Thanks everyone Phil
-
25th September 2015, 03:11 PM #9
I think you will find the same process is often used for metal lathe tooling.
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
-
25th September 2015, 06:03 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Nth of Newcastle
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 811
These are actually metal lathe tools, Parting tools ? 22mm high and tapering from 5mm to 3.5mm IMG_20150924_103453.jpgIMG_20150924_103453.jpg
-
28th September 2015, 06:17 PM #11Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Location
- Anna Bay, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 98
Phil,
I think these were the ones you mentioned to me the other day. Give me a yell when ready as I might be interested in the 150 mm one
Steve
-
29th September 2015, 07:27 AM #12SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Nth of Newcastle
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 811
Yes, be good to make a heavy scraper to finish the bottom of your bowls. I'm off to Laos next week but I'll give you a call when I get back. Cheers Phil.
-
29th September 2015, 11:24 AM #13
You will need to use 45% silver solder as a minimum but 40 with 3% nickel is the best this is used for saw blades and metal turning tools
Regards
Bowl Basher
Similar Threads
-
Tantung up date
By hughie in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 3Last Post: 24th September 2012, 11:57 AM -
tantung quote has arrived
By hughie in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 14Last Post: 27th August 2012, 07:55 AM -
TANTUNG origin site
By hughie in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 1Last Post: 16th August 2012, 07:03 PM -
Tantung steel
By robo hippy in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 28Last Post: 29th May 2012, 08:10 PM -
Tantung G cutting tools.
By Gary S in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 4Last Post: 28th February 2012, 11:02 PM