Thread: Tassie Oak Burl Platter

Looking good so far

Interesting Cliff, keep the pics and commentary coming.

I ordered my tool and tips today, so I will be following your progress.

First impressions.... positive but reserved at this stage.

I could live without it but, now that I have it, I could find a use for it.

Not good at low speed.

Cuts best at higher speed & forms profiles best by moving it sideways across the piece... IE, plunge it in flat & square & then scan/pan it.
Drag or push it so it cuts on a corner on the very tip of one of the side faces with the front face following the cut profile like rubbing the bevel on a gouge.

I could not have cut such an even profile in picture 5 above with just my gouge alone but, I still needed to clean up the torn grain.

I used the square cutter mounted on the rounded side of the tool holder so the flat was square on the tool rest.
The next step will be to try one of the doomed cutters mounted on the flat side of the tool holder with the round side on the tool rest so it can be rolled over to do a shear scrape.

are the square cutters carbide or just hss ,i have been chasind carbide to replace my hss ones that came with the jet multi head scraper i just bought ,it came with a round ,square and teardrop tip ,but they are very soft for hss.......................bob
ps if they are carbide , where did you get tham?, thanks cliff

Yup, follow the link in my first post.

See also, this thread.

sheee i,m dumb, thanks cliff...........bob

Watching with interest, Cliff. A hard old piece of Tassie Oak will certainly be a challenge for most tools - especially a burled piece.

Also interesting that you started with "the big jaws" and then mounted it in a more conventional chuck. I've little experience at this stage, but I thought the process usually went the other way?

It would seem that the Square Tip would be very prone to dig-ins judging by the amount it protrudes from the holder base - especially the corners?

Wayne

Thanks Wayne.

The blank was already roughly round but it had no chuck mount on it.
I could have drilled a hole in it & stuck it on a screw but the start I still hadn't decided which would be top & which would be bottom so I cleaned up the 2 faces & had a look at what the grain, cracks, bark, features were doing before I decided.

Does the tip not require a register? I would have thought with even the smallest amount of vibration that it would work loose and revolve about the screw.

It's looks like it will be a nice bowl.

It hasn't come loose yet.

Cliff, I'd use the r4 tip, not the square tip for this work.

Is the bar that you are using, round on the bottom, the part that meets the tool rest? If it is, it might be more difficult to use........?

I find the square bar helps keep everything lined up and square to the ways and cutting smoothy.

Did you see this video of the "Finishing Cut" that Craig put up?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KrWHEvx4KI&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KrWHEvx4KI[/ame]

Still, this is a "Roughing" tool, and is not designed to replace all the tools in your tool rack!

Cheers!

Looking good Cliff!

Thanks for the reminder on the finishing cut Stu.

Cliff,
Given your using a burl it does not surprise me about the tear out. Burl grain [for me] best responds to a very sharp gouge with light cuts for finishing.

I have a home made silver steel gouge that I like to use at this point.


Stu's point about the R4 tip is well taken, look forward to further pics.

So far so good.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

The blank was already roughly round but it had no chuck mount on it.
I could have drilled a hole in it & stuck it on a screw but at the start I still hadn't decided which would be top & which would be bottom so I cleaned up the 2 faces & had a look at what the grain, cracks, bark, features were doing before I decided.

Hmmm... Makes perfect sense to me now. I wish I had thought of that with the few solid pieces I've turned. I have always seemed to turn away the best parts. Next time....