Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 91 to 96 of 96
Thread: Threading Wooden Faceplates
-
20th May 2014, 09:30 PM #91
30 mm Tap and Drill
G'day Pat....did you get the tap you were looking for...I have one surplus and need a 1' x 10 TPI folloowing change in circumstances...send PM...Regards...Geiorge
-
20th May 2014 09:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
22nd May 2014, 03:32 PM #92GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- shoalhaven n.s.w
- Posts
- 1,240
Regarding seals we used the white packaging foam with a vacuum pump on a jig on the table Saw, so it could well work on the faceplates?!
Just a thought!
-
22nd May 2014, 04:11 PM #93
That's a good idea Charlie. I've got some laying around somewhere. Definitely cheaper than buying neoprene.
For now, though, I've got a nice big chunk of 2mm closed-cell neoprene to put on the first couple of cups. I'm still not sure that 2mm is quite thick enough, but I'll see how it goes when I get to that stage.
Meantime, I just gave my boring and tapping jig it's trial run. Works really well, and no risk of breaking my scroll chuck Tommy bars now.
I made this jig for two reasons - first I wanted to thread blocks larger than 50mm sq/dia, but only have a 50mm scroll chuck and am too lazy to mess about with a glue block or tenon on these. The jig allows me to bore any block from 50mm to 100mm sq.
Secondly, this alleviates my concern about running either the Forstner bit or tap into the bottom of my scroll chuck.
a. Jig top.JPG b. Jig bottom.JPG
In use, first the block is placed in the middle and the two arms are swung in against the sides and locked in place. With this design, the arms always stay parallel regardless of the size of the block.
Next the headstock is brought up, the block is slid to the centre and the live centre wound in against it.
Finally the 4 Allen head grub screws are snicked in to clamp the block firmly in place. They each have a point and slope slightly downwards, so they tend to grab the block and pull it down against the faceplate. Also, for the grub screws, there are tapped holes in the arms to suit the various block sizes from 2" to 4".
I bored a 6mm x 50mm hole in the side of the faceplate to take a screwdriver which locks the faceplate to the bed while tapping. (Just visible at the bottom of the thread tapping pic.)
This is a 95mm sq block.
Boring the hole, (lathe on slowest speed):
c. Boring hole.JPG
Tapping the thread:
d. Tapping thread.jpg
Finit:
e. Finished 2.JPG
It turned out surprisingly well balanced and doesn't jump around at all while boring, even at my slowest speed of 600rpm. I'm glad I put in the effort. Another useful little jig to add to my growing collection.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
22nd May 2014, 08:46 PM #94
looks very impressive
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
-
23rd May 2014, 07:55 PM #95
-
23rd May 2014, 08:07 PM #96
Thanks Steve, appreciated. I have a few little tapping things I want to do soon
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
Similar Threads
-
Screws for Attaching Faceplates
By Scott in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 13Last Post: 16th August 2012, 04:57 AM -
Faceplates
By sjm in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 8th August 2011, 09:48 AM -
Free Faceplates.........
By Stu in Tokyo in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 13Last Post: 21st November 2007, 04:51 PM -
Faceplates
By Tristan Croll in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 26th June 2000, 11:23 AM