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Thread: Threading Wooden Faceplates
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29th April 2014, 11:04 PM #1
Threading Wooden Faceplates
I finally scored a 1" x 10tpi (BSF) tap today at a reasonable price, so I can make some wooden faceplates and thread up some vacuum chuck cups for my little lathe.
Unfortunately, though, I only have a 1/2" Jacobs chuck to mount in the tailstock, so can't fit the tap in it.
Probably a silly question, but any tips on how to get the tap to go in perfectly square?
I've never cut a thread in wood before. I was thinking I'd possibly mount the wooden faceplate in my scroll chuck using a waste block, bore a 7/8" hole with a Forstner bit, then remove the faceplate from the lathe and bore a 1" hole in a thick block which I could clamp to the new faceplate to guide the tap, but I thought I'd ask first in case someone has a better method of getting it perfectly square so it doesn't tear out the first threads as it squares up when I'm getting started. (My drill press only has a 1/2" chuck too, so it's no good for this.)
Thanks in advance.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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29th April 2014, 11:11 PM #2Senior Member
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I used this method
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SE-OtSzoneU (Part 1)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3PoLaJUjow (Part 2)
Once the thread was cut, reinforce with CA glue and go over once more with the tap to clean up threads
Image00003.jpg
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29th April 2014, 11:40 PM #3
Excellent. Thank you for that nalmo. Just what the doctor ordered.
I'm having one of those 'wish I'd thought of that' moments.
I thought it might have been a silly question, but I'm really glad I asked now. Sure beats my idea.
I have to wait a day or two for the tap to arrive from Sydney. Second-hand, but in excellent condition according to the eBay listing. The pic in the listing for the tap doesn't show the back of the tap, so I have my fingers crossed that it has a centred dimple for my live centre's point.
The CA is a good tip too, (not mentioned in the videos).
Edit: I just thought I'd add - if anyone else is looking for a 1" 10tpi tap and having trouble finding one, I got mine here: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051...TQ%3AAU%3A1123
$33 delivered. There are still 3 left, and you can specify either a 'bottoming' or 'intermediate' tap.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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30th April 2014, 06:47 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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my mate has a shroud that fits around the tap snugly, he machined out of metal, you could make one out of timber! then taps it by hand.
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30th April 2014, 09:56 AM #5
Steve, I'd get the matching Die to keep the spindle clean. I still have my 1x10 set from the old Teknatool. I am still looking for a M30x3.5 LH at reasonable cost for the Yellow Peril. I haven't been looking too hard, over the last 4 years
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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30th April 2014, 11:07 AM #6
Sounds interesting, Charlie, but I can't quite picture what you mean. (I'm a bit slow sometimes.)
Just got a pleasant surprise - my new replacement router table arrived, along with the vacuum pump for the vac chuck setup.
H&F only told me yesterday afternoon that they were sending the router table. Very quick service/delivery. (The motor in the old one seized a couple of weeks ago.)
That's not a bad idea, Pat. Thanks, I might just do that. I just had a look and can get one on eBay for a similar price as the tap. (Thought they were dearer.)... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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30th April 2014, 12:42 PM #7
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30th April 2014, 12:53 PM #8
Thanks for putting in the time to do the search, Pat. Much appreciated. And the eBay one is even cheaper than the one I spotted this morning. It was about $30 delivered, about what the McJing die would cost with deliv.
I've already blown the budget for this fortnight, buying the vac pump, filter, tap etc, but will grab the one from McJings next payday. (The eBay listing for the P&N expires in 5 days. I'll keep an eye on it in case it's relisted though.)
My spindle thread is a little bit rough and could do with a cleanup.
Thanks again.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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30th April 2014, 02:18 PM #9
Steve, if you are up wollongong way, sometime, you could borrow my die, to save getting one for a at best yearly exercise.
As I mentioned before, I am running M30 now, so the 1x10 gear is surplus. We could always work out a mutually agreeable swap, no play money involved.Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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30th April 2014, 02:36 PM #10
Pat, that's a very kind offer, and one I might take up at some point. I hadn't noticed that you were semi-local. I don't drive any more, just ride an electric pushbike, but I do pass through Wollongong a couple of times a year by train on the way to visit my mate/adopted father in Sydney. Might be going up there pretty soon - he's giving me all of the vacuum hoses and fittings for my vac chuck setup. He's a retired CIG engineer, an expert on pressure and vacuum stuff. I'll pop you a PM if I do.
I'll keep a good eye out for an M30 x 3.5 LH die in my travels, too. That would be the perfect swap. Are you also after a tap in the same thread?
I assume that's 3.5 threads per centimetre and not per inch? And LH? That bit surprises me. So you need to lock the chuck in place for normal turning, or do you use your lathe from the other side and spin it backwards?... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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30th April 2014, 03:36 PM #11
Hello Steve, the LH thread is for the Outboard side of my Woodfast M910, aka The Yellow Peril.
If the heavens coincide, you are more than welcome to break your journey to the big smoke. I am only 5 minutes walk to the station.
It is always good to meet up with formites.Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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30th April 2014, 03:45 PM #12
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30th April 2014, 04:06 PM #13
Steve, the Yellow Peril is my third lathe after learning and deciding that turning is fun. I have used most Vicmarcs, Teknatool/Nova, a Stubby and various other makes and models and found that the Yellow Peril gives me the best compromise lathe. Bowl turning is my first love, but Spindle turning teaches more about tool use and control, which helps in bowl turning. I am only a competent intermediate. I know what I know and am not afraid to ask for help on the stuff I don't know. I don't think I'll get another lathe to replace the Peril, unless lady luck smiles on me and showers me with green notes
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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30th April 2014, 05:59 PM #14
You haven't got a LH 1 x 10 have you Pat? Tap that is.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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30th April 2014, 06:05 PM #15GOLD MEMBER
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Steve
I use a mcjing tap with no problems.In my case M30x3.5.After boring the hole,I just hold the tap in position using the live centre in the recess in the end of the tap.Then hold the tap with a spanner and rotate the driveshaft say half a turn then tighten the tailstock and keep repeating this untill the hole is tapped.Flood with CA glue and retap.
Ted
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