Thread: New turning tool

Hi artme.

To the best of my knowledge:

#1 - all of them, with different degrees of effectiveness of course. Isn't there a French guy that does everything with a bedan? The square tool can do everything a bedan does and more, if the access angle is a problem the pointy one does the rest. I have done 14" bowls and 1/16" finials with them.

#2 - fine beads easy, fine coves slightly more difficult. Access is wherever a 1/2" square bar can go. Pot pourry bowls not a problem because the entry is about 2" wide, so you can cut at a very wide angle under the lip (say 120 - 150 degrees).
The photo attached should give you an idea.

#3 - Diamond files should work ok if you do it constantly. If you can jig it correctly, the Tormek should also work, but I have not tried yet.

I have tried the green grinder wheel (cheap, only $20) to give the insert a quick lick on the side of the wheel. It seems to work ok, but in normal circumstances I still think the best bet is to use an insert for a long time, turn it 180 degrees to double its use then discard it. So far the only problem I have had is chipping them by hitting the chuck. Not really the tool problem, is it?

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Pot pourry bowls not a problem because the entry is about 2" wide, so you can cut at a very wide angle under the lip (say 120 - 150 degrees).
The photo attached should give you an idea.

Frank - beats me how you can undercut like that with that tool, but then your the man when it comes to these insert tools

Nice profile on the bowl, BTW.

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Thanks F&E. I agree with NeilS on the line of the bowl.

When you look at the plethora of tools on the market, and all the claims made about them, no wonder people get confused.

I think that the KISS principal is a good one and you seem to be well on the way to almost total simplicity in tool design and numbers. Of course this is bound to make the "purists" and "traditionalists" growl in their kennels, but so what!

Another point springs to mind here. That of sharpening. Look at all the expensive doodads available for sharpening. The less it costs to sharpen the better.

I have tried the green grinder wheel (cheap, only $20) to give the insert a quick lick on the side of the wheel. It seems to work ok, but in normal circumstances I still think the best bet is to use an insert for a long time, turn it 180 degrees to double its use then discard it. So far the only problem I have had is chipping them by hitting the chuck. Not really the tool problem, is it?

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Green wheels, cheap or dear will pretty well produce the same results. As you probably have seen its a reasonable result but nothing to flash. For the really good finish a diamond hone wheel is required and they are pricey to say the least.

For metal turning the green wheel is ok, but a bit rough for wood cutting. If you have a indexable tip with good edges. Then as you say, wearing em out and discarding probably is the way to go.

I see McJings now have some turning tools with silver soldered tungsten tips on them. Small only, a 1/2" skew and what looked like a 3/8 spindle gouge, short length, no handle.

Originally Posted by NeilS

Frank - beats me how you can undercut like that with that tool, but then your the man when it comes to these insert tools

Nice profile on the bowl, BTW.

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Thanks Neil. The limiting factor is really the size of the opening, not the tool. On a narrow vase neck a straight tool could not do it, whatever the cutting tip, but with a wide pot-pourri bowl opening the angle determined by the thickness of the wall and the diametre of the opening, say 5mm and 50mm, produces a gradient of one in ten, not very steep. Here is a photo that might help with the explanation.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Thanks Neil. The limiting factor is really the size of the opening, not the tool. On a narrow vase neck a straight tool could not do it, whatever the cutting tip, but with a wide pot-pourri bowl opening the angle determined by the thickness of the wall and the diametre of the opening, say 5mm and 50mm, produces a gradient of one in ten, not very steep. Here is a photo that might help with the explanation.

Perhaps the next variation will be a goosneck tool?....

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Frank and Neil,

I think the Easy Wood tool people have one already out there.....

Originally Posted by NeilS

Perhaps the next variation will be a goosneck tool?....

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I thought those were already available, with round cutters... I would not mind trying round cutters, but the vermec TC ones are too small (10 mm) for my rough metalworking skills, and the 25mm ones are still HSS, therefore defeating the idea of doing away with sharpening.

Philosophically, I do not appreciate much those hollow forms with minuscule openings that have no practical purpose and show off the technical skill of the turner but are rather limited aesthetically (IMHO, of course). Given the large variety of forms with relatively small openings obtainable with a straight tool, I doubt that I would bother with a gooseneck.

Frank and Co,

just back on line for a short time. still here and the lathe is finally off.

I want a goose-neck Ci0 for one main reason - under-cutting the top of a box that I can't fit my Ci0 into. And I want it smooth as I can get.

Sorry for the short reply.

Head still spinning - afterall, has been here giving me free lessons and great tips since last Tuesday.

I'll sleep for a week solid after Julie drags him home.

More on what the Axeman has been up to later....