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  1. #1
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    Default New Tool plan - Thin parting tool

    I am at it again, first was the carbide tipped lathe tools, now am making a thin bladed parting tool. 3mm x 40mm 316 grade Stainless. Hopefully it will hold an edge, might go 304 if this doesn't work, then maybe HSS if I can get hold of a small piece of flat bar.
    Idea is to drill out handle with 10mm drill, then cu slot at ferrule end (25mm), see pic. Handle not turned yet, but will test of fake handle before, epoxying into real thing. I had thought of making a knife handle with rivets, but i like the feel a turned handle.
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  3. #2
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    I have been using power hacksaw blades 1.2mm thick for years as thin bladed parting tools and never broke one in use. Holds edge very well.

  4. #3
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    3mm is not that thin, I would call a standard hacksaw blade "thin"
    SS is usually quite soft so my guess is as even if it can form a decent edge to start with, it probably will not hold that edge, and theres a chance that it will bend.
    Have you ever notice how crap SS knives are at holding an edge in the kitchen where they're not usually even cutting wood.
    If you can't find a piece of power hack saw its best to go straight to HSS.

  5. #4
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    I have been using a thin parting tool for years, made from a power hack saw blade. It holds an edge very well.

    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fumbler View Post
    I am at it again, first was the carbide tipped lathe tools, now am making a thin bladed parting tool. 3mm x 40mm 316 grade Stainless. Hopefully it will hold an edge, might go 304 if this doesn't work, then maybe HSS if I can get hold of a small piece of flat bar.
    Idea is to drill out handle with 10mm drill, then cu slot at ferrule end (25mm), see pic. Handle not turned yet, but will test of fake handle before, epoxying into real thing. I had thought of making a knife handle with rivets, but i like the feel a turned handle.
    316 stainless is food grade , 304 is softer or rather stiffer neither can be heat treated so they will remain soft. Go with HSS at least it will keep the edge as opposed to stainless. If you must use stainless try and get some 440 is a knife steel ,
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marten...tainless_steel
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  7. #6
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    Cheers, I have taken all on Board and will look into the different options. Think I might go the Power Hacksaw blade, or find some HSS.

    By the way, here's the handle.
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  8. #7
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    If you make it like the one in your first post I would not cut out where the handle is just sandwich it between two pieces of wood which I feel would give a stronger handle to tool Like the crown ones. See the one on the left

  9. #8
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    Fumbler,

    Beautiful handle. I agree with not cutting down the end of the parting tool to fit into a drilled hole. Going deep with a thin tool put a lot of stress on the tool which will be concentrated at the right angle cut. If you must, make the back a long ramp to the thin part.

    I have used a $1.00 bread knife for years as a thin parting tool. I ground off the sharp cutting edge and grind the tip at about 80 degrees. I use it fat side up to provide clearance. The tip is shown on the right in the attached photo.

    A parting tool is usually not used for long periods of time, as a bowl gouge hollowing, so carbon steel resharpened before parting works for me.

    You could use a knife blade with your own handle.
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    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by hughie View Post
    316 stainless is food grade , 304 is softer or rather stiffer neither can be heat treated so they will remain soft. Go with HSS at least it will keep the edge as opposed to stainless. If you must use stainless try and get some 440 is a knife steel ,
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marten...tainless_steel
    316 is Marine grade, not food grade and is essentially Marine grade ie. rust resistant. but agreed the 316/304 are the same hardness. HSS here I come

  11. #10
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    oops, I guess i'll keep the handle for another tool and just sandwich using knife rivets.

    Thanks for all the advice/tips

  12. #11
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    Don't forget to round over the bottom edges so that you don't dig into your tool rests.

    Stay sharp!

    Neil
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilS View Post
    Don't forget to round over the bottom edges so that you don't dig into your tool rests.

    Stay sharp!

    Neil
    Thanks for the heads up. and will definitely round off

  14. #13
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    Aug 2012
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    +1 for the power hacksaw blade

    Also check aliexpress as they sell 200mm lengths (various widths) of 2 and 3mm HSS

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuarkVI View Post
    +1 for the power hacksaw blade

    Also check aliexpress as they sell 200mm lengths (various widths) of 2 and 3mm HSS
    Bingo, I forgot about my mate at Alibaba. I have managed to pick up quite a bit of small quantity stuff from them, thanks for the reminder.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuarkVI View Post
    +1 for the power hacksaw blade

    Also check aliexpress as they sell 200mm lengths (various widths) of 2 and 3mm HSS
    Sorted. 1 piece 200x40x2 HSS coming up. US$4.54 (might justhave to wait for delivery, zzzzzzzz).......mmmm, damn expensive, not. cheaper than a Powersaw blade. Although I may drop round some machine shop to see if anyone has an old spent one for nix.

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