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  1. #16
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    Apr 2001
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    Bob, that is a nice idea. I tried to keep the rod close to the edge ... mindful that reducing the width of the rail more might reduce its stiffness. It's a trade off. I will use it - hopefully this weekend - and determine if modifications are necessary.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #17
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    Jun 2014
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    Tucson, Arizona, USA
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    Someone mentioned the glue might separate from the wood/metal and cause the bar to come loose. To solve that, use a pocket hole type drill bit, and use self tapping screws to hold the bar onto the wood. ............. Jerry (in Tucson)

  4. #18
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubsnstubs View Post
    Someone mentioned the glue might separate from the wood/metal and cause the bar to come loose. To solve that, use a pocket hole type drill bit, and use self tapping screws to hold the bar onto the wood. ............. Jerry (in Tucson)
    Self tapping screws can be difficult to screw into a solid steel bar but would suit a tube.
    Tapping a thread into a solid bar and using machine screws would be stronger.
    If a solid bar of sufficient diameter is used then a wooden support might not even be needed for spindle work.

  5. #19
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    Perth
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    If a solid bar of sufficient diameter is used then a wooden support might not even be needed for spindle work.
    Bob, I tried that a few years ago, using a 1" tube on steel legs. It vibrated too much in the centre. This is one of the reasons for using Jarrah - to absorb vibration.

    Regards frim Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #20
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Bob, I tried that a few years ago, using a 1" tube on steel legs. It vibrated too much in the centre. This is one of the reasons for using Jarrah - to absorb vibration.
    Tube, I would agree could be problematic and the Jarrah would be good at soaking up vibe,

    A solid bar should be different as it will have much more inertia.
    A 600 mm long, 1 mm wall, 1" diameter tube weighs ~325 g
    A 600 mm long, 3 mm wall, 1" diameter tube weighs ~965 g
    A 600 mm long solid 1" diameter steel bar weighs ~ 2.4 kg

  7. #21
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    May 2006
    Location
    Gosford
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    Very nice solution utilising materials at hand, Derek. Excellent photography too.
    Don't Just Do It.... Do It HardenFast!!

    Regards - Wayne

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    3,198

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    Nicely done Derek

    I have the same lathe, and have been meaning to hunt down the extension bed for some time now. It'll have to be a new one, or a used one close enough to pick up - postage would be a killer.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Like Derek I needed a longer tool rest, but in my case the rest will be used mainly to turn single piece rolling pins.

    My longest rest is one I made about 10 years ago and has seen quite a bit of work but @ 350 mm in length is an annoying 50 mm too short.
    It's made from 2 x 1/2" mild steel bar with a ground radiused top edge.
    It does not have an undercut and the supporting rod is just a tad too long so it gets in the way of the chisel supporting finger right in the middle of the rest.

    I hadn't check how well it was lining up with the lathe bed for some years but it still seems to be holding up just fine.
    (The DAF is first zeroed on lathe bed and then transferred to the top of the tool rest where it should also read zero.)
    IMG_2811.jpg

    This is the tool rest that came with the lathe.
    Still good after a lot of work.
    IMG_2812.jpg

    The new one show below is 450 mm long, and "sans decor".
    Its made from 1/2 x 1/2" square mild steel rod welded to a long edge of a 50 x 5 mm cross section mild steel bar.
    The supporting rod that goes into the banjo is 5/8" MS rod and is inserted into a 5/8" hole that goes right through a 25 x 265 x 50 mm MS block and then welded the rod in place at the top of the hole. I call this a T-piece.

    It's a lighter mass rest per unit length than the other 2 rests but I'm not intending to use this one for anything larger than a rolling pins or small spindle work and may even still rough down the pins using the stronger 350 mm rest.

    IMG_2810.jpg

    Getting this one to be parallel to the lathe bed proved trickier than I thought.
    I started by putting the T-piece into the banjo and then lightly clamped the long bar with attached square rod onto the T-piece.
    The DAF is zeroed on the bed, then transferred to the top of the rest, and by light tapping the rest up and down set the angle to zero - clamped hard, checked again with the DAF - spot welded and checked and the finally welded.
    The first time I did this it was 0.5º out, something must have moved or the heat generated by the weld sis something.
    So I cut off the T-piece, ground it all back and re-did it - thats why the welding of the T-piece looks a bit untidy.

    Despite using a stitch TIG weld, as expected the welding process still put a significant bow in the long dimension of the square rod and flat bar.
    I got most of the bow out with a hammer and anvil and then I ground the radius topped edge on a large belt sander that surface it is reasonably straight.

    The radius top looks like this. The bright spot is the top of the spot weld that held the top in place while welded along the long edge
    I will sand that area flat before adding a lick of paint.
    IMG_2818.jpg

    The top of a twin poster like Derek's should be easier to set up parallel to the lathe bed because there would be enough play up and down in the banjos to adjust it as needed.
    I have the materials to make a longer one but will make this one a two poster and may use use the existing banjo and just make up a second one .

  10. #24
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    May 2006
    Location
    Gosford
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    Nice detail in your methodology, Bob. Thanks.
    Don't Just Do It.... Do It HardenFast!!

    Regards - Wayne

  11. #25
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Hi Bob

    I like what you did.

    If I had welding equipment - and could weld (I went on a course many years ago, and sucked!) - I would have build the rest section as you have. I would still have stuck with twin banjos. I think it is better to err on the side of caution, and plan in adjustability.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #26
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    If I had welding equipment - and could weld (I went on a course many years ago, and sucked!) - I would have build the rest section as you have. I would still have stuck with twin banjos. I think it is better to err on the side of caution, and plan in adjustability.
    Dual banjos definitely on the next one.

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