Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Window

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Tasmaniac
    Posts
    1,470

    Default Window

    Got another window to make, this one 800 dia and will have stained glass in it.
    A change to the local building regulations which insists that sisalation now must have a gap between it and the outside cladding is a nasty surprise. Up shot of that is that the thickness or reveal of the window has gone from 140mm to 170mm.
    Turning the inside dia used to be a bit of a stretch at 140 so it will be interesting to see how trickier 30mm extra will make it.
    Another negative is I had to buy 50mm thick boards of WRC to make up the extra thickness. $245 of timber to do the job.
    Anyway built the frame up today. The top surface that you can see with the plugs in it will eventually be the side of the window that faces towards the inside of the house.
    DSCF6980.jpg
    Pinch dog indents are just filled with a wood filler.
    DSCF6981.jpg
    Have allowed a 4mm turning allowance on the inside and outside diameters. Which you might be able to see on the segment template. As I had made an 800 dia one some time ago I still had the template.(In fact have a fair collection of templates).
    DSCF6978.jpg
    Now to wait till the glue dries and try to turn it, tomorrow.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,770

    Default

    So glue up today and turn tomorrow? A bit brave?
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Tasmaniac
    Posts
    1,470

    Default

    Glue should be well set by tomorrow, so no bravery there. Segments also have 2 screws in each holding them to the ones underneath.
    Biggest concern is turning a flat internal diameter 180mm deep.
    Will post pics of the progress tomorrow.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Tasmaniac
    Posts
    1,470

    Default Continuing on,

    Window mounted on to lathe. I prefer to skim off the outside face first.
    DSCF6982.jpg
    Then go for the outside dia.
    DSCF6990.jpg

    Turning the O.D is reasonably straight forward. Due to the diameter of the work you must move the chisels along the tool rest at a slower than usual speed. Also you can see the right hand end of the tool rest is very close to the faceplate meaning chisels are being supported right near the end of the tool rest, so extra care is a good thing when turning there.
    A straight edge can be used to see how flat you are going on the O.D.
    DSCF6988.jpg
    The joint line between the bottom 2 rows of segments wept few tiny drips of not quite set glue due to the centrifugal force.(Endfeild Guy).
    Next it's the inside dia.
    DSCF6993.jpg
    I find turning the inside dia a much more precarious job that the O.D. Just thinking about what could happen if you had a dig in working on the end of the tool rest makes the spine tingle. There are a few reasons why it is more dangerous. Here is one, When turning the out side dia if you were to have some sort of dig in or incident you can jump away from the action with relative ease. On the inside dia however you have to watch the other side of the spinning window as well (between about 9 and 12 o'clock) because it is spinning very close to ones head,ear, or neck! depeding on the dia of the work; and as you know fast moving corners of wood cut you with ease. Anyway extra extra care here is a good idea.
    Using a straight edge for reference again on the inside.
    DSCF6995.jpg
    Then a rebate is turned in to fit the stained glass window.
    I got a hold of a piece of the stuff they use when making stained windows, so that I knew how far to turn the rebate in. Have allowed for a 3mm gap around the O.D of the glass window. Allowing for possible future movement in the frame.
    DSCF6997.jpg
    An angled outside sill is a must so that any water from outside weather will run off the frame and not pool up. On the last picture you can see 2 pencil maked diameters(pointed out by the arrows). Turning a straight line between them will give plenty of water "run off" slope.
    DSCF6998.jpg

    That's it for the turning. Will give the whole thing a light sand, take off face plate and plug the 4 holes from the screws that were holding job to f/plate.
    Will also manually sand a small radius on the corners of the face, just enough to get the sharp edges off.
    DSCF6999.jpg
    And that is job done.
    DSCF7000.jpg
    Last edited by artful bodger; 3rd October 2018 at 05:44 PM. Reason: .

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    Artful,

    You are a true craftsman and artist. Beautiful!
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,770

    Default

    Spectacular work. Hacks like me enjoy watching the work of craftsmen.

    thanka for sharing..
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,470

    Default

    Amazing! Thanks for the journeybrava

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Tasmaniac
    Posts
    1,470

    Default

    Aw!, Shuks you guys. Thanks for the compliments.
    Nice to be able to post about the windows where folk who are interested can read about it.

Similar Threads

  1. The Window from which we look
    By rwbuild in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 25th February 2015, 10:57 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •