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Thread: Wood Lathe restoration
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26th December 2014, 04:17 PM #1Senior Member
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Wood Lathe restoration
Hi guys, i picked this lathe up a few weeks ago. It has been sitting in an old Fullas shed for years slowly rusting away, thankfully it's only surface rust and it's quite solid underneath. Apart from starting to buff it up with a wire brush attachment on my power drill and a sander I haven't accomplished a whole lot.
I'm not 100% sure on how far I should go, do I need to completely dismantle it in order to paint it properly? Can I just use a rust primer? What top coat paint do I use?
There also seems to be a few bit's missing, can anyone tell me whats missing and the best way of replacing them? Thanks very much for any input.
All the locking Mechanism is missing, do I need proper Asmac parts or can I improvise?
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26th December 2014 04:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th December 2014, 04:33 PM #2
The Lathe.
Hi Kiwi75,
I woodn't have much faith in the wire brush, but, what I wood use is, say 150 Grit Paper, & some Kerosene, should the trick, & of course a lot of Elbow Grease.
Know nothing about Painting, although the Lathe looks a bit like an Older Woodfast.
Measure inside the bed, between the Rails, Work out the Thread on the Spindle, & that will give you a start.
Have Fun.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
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26th December 2014, 07:33 PM #3
How far you go depends on how thorough you want to be.
As to paint you could use a undercoat, if so get one with rust inhibitor in it. I would probably just go for top coat with the rust inhibitor. As Issatree mentioned you probably need to get more of the rust off before the top coat. Depending on where you live in NZ you might have an on going issue with rust due to the salt in the air . if your on the coast I would give it 2-3 coats and let them dry thoroughly before applying the next coat.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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26th December 2014, 08:04 PM #4Senior Member
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Cheers Bro, I'm in Kerikeri so yip, pretty humid rust growing weather up here. I think I'll ask about a top coat with a rust inhibitor at my local paint supplier. thanks mate.
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26th December 2014, 08:06 PM #5Senior Member
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Lathe
I had an identical looking lathe until last year, sold under the Axminster PowerTools label (uk), bought it about mid nineties. The castings had been made abroad (Taiwan,china?) and it was outfitted in the uk, there will be many identical looking lathes around from that era.
the spindle thread on mine was 1"x12 and mt2 in headstock and tail stock.
Cam
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27th December 2014, 07:45 AM #6Senior Member
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Cool thanks for the info. So what's the procedure with the 150grit and Kerosene? Just sand it then rub it down with the kerosene and a rag?
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27th December 2014, 08:37 AM #7
The Kero.
Hi Again,
Sorry, as I did not explain myself.
The 150 & Kero are for the Bed of The Lathe, but making sure you do underneath The Bed as well, & I suppose in some places it could be used as well.
Bottoms of the Banjo & the Tailstock, Tool Rests, Turning Tools etc. then wipe down with a rag.
When I bought My " Tough " Lathe, every night I wood lather it with a 3 of kero & 1 of e/oil, & it was all gone next day, & I did this for quite a long time.
So being Cast Iron it just soaked it up. I think it made for a better Lathe, but that is only my opinion.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
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27th December 2014, 09:10 AM #8Member
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If you have an angle grinder try a medium duty cup brush (aobut $5). The stiffness of the cup bristles and the speed of the grinder will polish it up like a new dime in short order.
You should have a "rust converter" available at any automotive store (here Pepboys, AutoZone, Napa, etc). It is used for auto restoration and almost all carry it under various names (RustMort, Osphos, etc). It chemically changes rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate and most do not require removal (other than 0000 steel wool) prior to painting/priming. It will get down into any pits or hidden areas and convert/kill the rust. About $14 a pint here but that would be enough for a half dozen projects the size of the lathe.
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27th December 2014, 09:46 AM #9
damp
Kerikeri, definitely three coats and will most likely be battling surface rust on all the unpainted areas as a matter of course, you might want to try a rust preventative in between uses if you dont get to use the lathe often. Mr Dad used to use a solvent based [ any solvent will do ie meths, petrol etc ] recipe with 10% lanolin but probably you can get away with WD40 or similar.
Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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29th December 2014, 10:19 AM #10
The lathe I restored I pretty much took the whole thing apart. I tried quite a few things to remove the rust and what worked the best for me was an item called Strip it disk(post 57) that attaches to an angle grinder.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...=134509&page=4
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29th December 2014, 05:15 PM #11Senior Member
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Thanks for the cool thread to read Cristos, very informative. I bought a bottle of Rust converter and some etching primer today, so I'll have a few pics to share by the end of the week hopefully.
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30th December 2014, 05:22 AM #12Senior Member
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If you are brave enough to do a full strip down nothing (for me) beats 8 parts water 1 part stock feed molasses for de rusting. It's cheap and very effective, if a bit messy. it takes up to a week to cure heavily rusted parts but much less for light rust.
Ive used it fre everything from small hardware to engine blocks and once did a ute chassis in the stuff in a tank made of timber and plastic sheet.
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30th December 2014, 09:12 AM #13
Im in for the ride here to follow your progress. I have a few lathes to restore myself.
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
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30th December 2014, 05:58 PM #14
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31st December 2014, 09:54 AM #15
As soon as ì start working on even just one of them
Have one of the twins for next 12 months. Will be an interesting year
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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