Thread: Wooden Coffee Travel Mug

2012-10-20 20.35.26.jpgShelf 2.jpg You could use a 2 part resin called Megapoxy 132 which I have used successfully on my kitchen benchtop and a shelf for a microwave oven.

I am thinking a bead of silicon on the bottom and lower side.

Not sure how it would hold with the extreme change of temperature.

I was thinking along those lines of silicone too. At least it has some give in it.

Having said that, super glue has lasted over 12 months, with many cups of coffee in it.

If it breaks, Unless someone comes up with a better idea, I think I will try that.

Thanks for your help.

Perhaps a hole in the bottom of the wood part will let out any pressure due to heat and moisture.
It does look better than the plastic ones.
Regards
John

That is a great idea - I will try that one first I think.

Originally Posted by Quinny01

Below is something I made probably 12 months ago, and has had daily use ever since.

I turned it from Mango, and finished inside and out with wipe on poly. I then glued in with super glue, an aluminium insert from a purchased travel mug.

Now only recently, the insert seems to be moving up, possibly about to come out.

Now I know moisture, heat and wood don't really go together great, but is there any ideas on what glue to use if I need to re-glue it?

Thanks in advance.

IMG_0790.JPG

I've had good results using Gorilla Polyurethane Glue. Clean the metal part that is going to be glued with aceton or metho. Wear plastic gloves to avoid contaminating the clean metal surface with finger prints etc. I spread a thin layer of glue on the metal part of the coffee mug, and mist a little water inside the wood component. Join the two parts, and apply a light clamping pressure to ensure that the two parts stay together. Polyurethane glues foam and expand when curing, hence the need to apply clamping pressure. The glue is waterproof when set and if you have good glue coverage it will prevent any water from getting into the glue joint.

Don't try to wipe or clean off any wet glue foam squeeze-out if/when it bubbles out of the joint. Wait till the glue has cured, then remove any squeeze-out. I put a band of masking tape on either side of the joint to catch the squeeze-out.

I haven't had one come apart in three years. Don't drill holes in the bottom of the wood part - it will let as much water in as out, and you'll end up with a failed glue joint.

Regards,

RoyG

CA melts with heat, so no good. I use silicon to enable some movement

Thanks to everyone for their help, all ideas are much appreciated.

I have some great ideas for the next one now, or when this breaks.