Thread: yorkshire grit and ultra shine

If you are talking EEE ultra shine I have been using it for years

Yep, me to, great stuff.

I pcked up a 5kg tin a fews years back and spilt it with afew other woodies we are still using it. Its almost a daily for me

My tub of ultra shine just turned up, looking forward to using it.

Just a question for you users! It says it's only suitable for use under a traditional wax finish. Is this correct or do people use a variety of finishes over the top?

Originally Posted by brainstrust

Just a question for you users! It says it's only suitable for use under a traditional wax finish. Is this correct or do people use a variety of finishes over the top?

? Not sure exactly what you mean .But I use EEE as a sanding finish on just about everything I do and as for final coat of whatever. I used W.O.P, Antique oil, DO, Lacquer, polyurethane varnish all with no dramas. Its just a final prep on the wood before applying your top coat/s. Actually I dont have any traditional wax that I know of.

OK you need to sand down to around 400-600 if you are doing it by hand. The finer the sanding finish the better EEE will work for you, as long as you remember its a polishing compound and not a sanding compound you 'll be fine. It capable of leaving a gloss finsh especially on hardwood.

This piece of River Cooba was polished with EEE at this stage, this is before any other finish or coating has been applied

very nice indeed
the instructions on the back of it say: "It is not suitable for use under any other finishes except for a traditional wax finish." I'm confused, mind you that doesn't take much

Originally Posted by brainstrust

very nice indeed
the instructions on the back of it say: "It is not suitable for use under any other finishes except for a traditional wax finish." I'm confused, mind you that doesn't take much

OK have a look at this for further info
EEE-Ultra Shine (cut 'n' polish paste wax)

Its designed to go with other Ubeaut products, hence the comment probably. But if you're not using these products and or having some issues, try wiping the job down with Meths to remove the residual wax from EEE and let it thoroughly dry for a few hours. Then apply whatever finish you require

Or just use Tripoli (EEE) powder (rotten stone ) if you want to get away from the wax !

I use EEE quite often. I get best effect after sanding to 1200#. It will produce a sheen on the wood, especially on harder woods, this is not from a "coating" but from the very fine abrasive effect on the timber. EEE or "Ultra shine", as has been mentioned, is compatible with other Ubeaut products, but may not be suitable under products from other manufacturers. It is also very important to use it sparingly.

I use mostly lacquer over a sanding sealer on my exhibition pieces. After the final coat, I will use OOOO steel wool to cut the surface and restore the sheen by using EEE as a final "cutting" compound, much like a panel beater will use a cutting compound to finish off a paint job on a car.

Hope that helps.

Jim

Originally Posted by pommyphil

Or just use Tripoli (EEE) powder (rotten stone ) if you want to get away from the wax !

I make my own brew nowadays. A mix of tripoli, bees wax, carnauba wax, and pine oil turps. Apply and immediately polish of in one go. Job done!

The Tripoli is cheap and you need very little of it. Just don't sniff the pine oil too much... :+ ))

I don't bother going above #400 on the sanding, the tripoli will take it from there to a finish I'm happy with.

The finish is not quite as soft as DO, but it sells. I love the DO finish, but I just don't have the patience for it anymore.

As Phil suggests, make your own brew without wax if you want an oil, or other base, finish. I have experimented with a tripoli and livos kunos oil mix, which worked OK when I was after a more water resistant finish.



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Been "playing" around with my EEEEEEEEEEE Ultra Shine. I've found I get a much nicer finish by applying the shine straight onto the wood rather then after an oil or something. Is that what most find?

BT, sand, EEE then Oil.

On a lathe, spin as fast as safe to do and keep up the pressure and rotate the white cloth until you are not removing wax (tan colour).

On flat work, keep working the entire side until no colour appears on the white cloth. A new, broken in, swansdown mop on a hand drill helps speed up the process.

You may have picked up the "WHITE" cloth, as coloured cloths may leach onto the work piece and paper towel fails DAHIKT.