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Thread: Sauna Building

  1. #1
    bladelle Guest

    Default Sauna Building

    I want to build a Sauna aprox 190*240.
    Does any body have some advise or drawings on construction for my project.

    Advise on which timber to use on the inside and the outside please.

    I have purchased treated pine for the frame and I am concerned that it may give off some sought of poisonous gas, any thought on this please.


    regards,

    Brent

    [email protected]

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Turramurra, NSW
    Posts
    2,267

    Default

    Bladdy, you don't need plans for a suana, its basically a box.

    I'd lose the pine, traditionally they are made of cedar in the interior. The pine will warp and may well poison someone.
    Bodgy
    "Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Here are a few websites to help you out:

    http://www.saunasite.com/index-en/q_and_a.htm

    Kalle Hoffman's FAQ's:

    http://www.kalle.com/sauna_faq.html


    Lots of info there, and should get you started. There are several different species of wood you can use for inside the sauna, but Western Red Cedar in North America is most popular (not to be confused with the cedar marketed for closets). I used WRC for the interior on my sauna; make sure it is at least 1/2 inch T&G or it will buckle. Do not treat it.

    Do not use an Infrared heater if you want a traditional sauna which requires a large rock magazine for throwing water on. Infrared heaters work like the sun, and shadows will be colder. Tylo makes great heaters.

    Most important is that you have proper ventilation, with a vent under the heater and an adjustable one on the opposite wall about 12 inches from the ceiling. Heater should be on same wall as door. Floor can be any material, I chose to lay 16" tile.

    You must also have a vapor barrier that can withstand the heat; aluminum foil is the popular choice. I used 6 mil polyeurothane plastic and put aluminum foil over it. Then, you must use firring strips before you put up the interior WRC T&G so that there is a 3/4" ventilation gap behind the walls (air circulation protects against mold). Must also have a 1/2" gap between wall and ceiling so the air can circulate and get out. The walls should also begin about 3 inches off the floor and there should be at least a 1/2" gap between baseboard and wall for air to get in. I used tile for the baseboard.

    Good luck!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    ...
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    If I remember correctly there was an article on how to build one in the Australian Woodworker. It was in the early years of the magazine. They may be able to sell you a back copy.


    Peter.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    51
    Posts
    135

    Default

    It's going to be 40 degrees in the shade here today - who needs a sauna?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,639

    Default Nails

    You'll need to use silicon bronze boat nails on your cedar boards to prevent black stains. I built a sauna at a local resort. A sauna specialist came up from Sydney and he supplied the sauna unit and all the cedar. It was basically a box, framed in standard pine studs, tile floor and cedar board secret nailed with boat nails. Stud wall sat on a concrete nib wall to keep its feet dry, seating sat on stainless coach screws set into the end of the legs to keep them off the floor. There was a fire sprinkler set into the ceiling which would be something to consider.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Hellsinkin', Finland
    Posts
    49

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by journeyman Mick
    You'll need to use silicon bronze boat nails on your cedar boards to prevent black stains.
    You'll also want to make sure that there are no nail heads that could come in contact with skin.

    Proper ventilation, as someone else already said, is crucial. Here's an article with diagrams.

    http://www.finn-tastic.com/buildinga...entilation.php

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