Method of controlling moisture through brick wall

**Ben_82** · 7th April 2007, 08:43 AM

G'day, had a drafty round the other day to get some plans done. I have a single brick garage I wanna turn into a rumpus/4th bedroom. He said I will need some method of controlling any moisture comming through the external single brick wall, as I want to install a stud/gyprock wall.

He proposed a method (see attached pic) of leaving a 50mm cavity between the brick wall and new gyprock wall, and concrete a wedge/rill/angle/slope (unsure of correct term). Then every so often drill weep holes at the base of the wedge so any water that comes through the brick wall from the outside, will then run down the inside of the brick wall, and out the weep holes at the bottom.

Sounds like a good idea, although I doubt it is really necessary anyway. But, I don't like the idea of drilling holes through the external brick wall. Would be an entry point for anything small enough to get through (termites, spiders etc)

What are your opinions on this method, and is there any other way to go about it?

Cheers

Ben

**ozwinner** · 7th April 2007, 09:54 AM

The way you intend doing it is standard brick veneer construction practice.

You could always fill the weep holes with stainless steel fly wire if bugs are a concern.

Al

**ausdesign** · 7th April 2007, 10:57 AM

We often come across this situation with clients.
The biggest stumbling block is usually the lack of a membrane under the concrete slab [which is more commonly encountered with infill slabs]
- no membrane, no permit.

**autogenous** · 29th February 2008, 08:39 PM

The finished floor level (FFL) is the same inside and out?

You may have to silicon down some Alcor to the floor and up the stud frame 250mm
You will need 100mm of Alcor under the stud frame too to stop rot..

Its still not going to stop ingress from under the slab through capillary action though.

**autogenous** · 29th February 2008, 08:47 PM

You could always fill the weep holes with stainless steel fly wire if bugs are a concern.

Its used to be the first year apprentice joke, "Grab me a bag of weep holes will you"

Now you can buy them. Plastic with stainless screen. That buggered a perfectly good first day app joke.

Given termites can chew a couple of inches of concrete "supposably" theres more ways than that to get in.

To termite proof properly you will need the termite mesh in the outside wall.

Back to the flashing. Cut the second bed joint out 25mm deep with a diamond blade grinder. Silicon in Alcor. Nail to stud upwards 250mm across cavity. Termites don't like bitumen coated aluminum either.

**Ben_82** · 11th March 2008, 07:16 AM

Sorry for the late reply

Decided to go ahead with the reno's.

The finished floor level is 200mm higher inside than out. Do I still need this 'Alcor'?

Would council approve keeping just the single brick, and using some sort of spray on sealer?

**ausdesign** · 11th March 2008, 08:43 AM

There's no reason why you can't use a single skin - as long as it is treated to prevent water penetration.
Single skin construction is common in northern areas.

**journeyman Mick** · 11th March 2008, 02:28 PM

Originally Posted by ausdesign

There's no reason why you can't use a single skin - as long as it is treated to prevent water penetration.
Single skin construction is common in northern areas.

If you're referring to North Queensland, it's usually a single skin of concrete masonry blocks, sealed with a sealer and paint system.

Mick

**thebuildingsurv** · 11th March 2008, 03:38 PM

Single skin wont comply with insulation requirements.

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