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  1. #1
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    Jan 2002
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    Default Making cement pavers

    Making a few pavers (about 10, as stepping stones) using a plastic tub about 30cm x 20cm as a mould. First one failed using 1:4 cement/aggregate mix, but that was probably because I couldn't resist testing it before it was completely dry. It was about 5cm thick. If anyone has made their own pavers, any advice on mix ratios, reinforcing required (?) or any other tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
    Rusty

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  3. #2
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    Aug 2003
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    Conder, ACT
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    Default

    Leave the thing alone for a week before touching it. Keep damp.

  4. #3
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    Sunshine Coast, Qld
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    Default

    Thanks mate.
    Rusty

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Aust
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    Default

    aggregate mix
    What did that consist of?

    Maybe make some washed aggregate steptoes?
    c2=a2+b2;
    When buildings made with lime are subjected to small movements thay are more likely to develop many fine cracks than the individual large cracks which occur in stiffer cement-bound buildings. Water penetration can dissolve the 'free' lime and transport it. As the water evaporates, this lime is deposited and begins to heal the cracks. This process is called autogenous healing.

  6. #5
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    Jan 2002
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    Default

    Aggregate was sand and small stones. What's washed aggregate?
    Rusty

  7. #6
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Aust
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    See topic polished concrete
    c2=a2+b2;
    When buildings made with lime are subjected to small movements thay are more likely to develop many fine cracks than the individual large cracks which occur in stiffer cement-bound buildings. Water penetration can dissolve the 'free' lime and transport it. As the water evaporates, this lime is deposited and begins to heal the cracks. This process is called autogenous healing.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Tallahassee FL USA
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    Default

    Better off without reo in pieces of those dimensions, to avoid possible corrosion and cracking therefrom. Use packed bedding sand for firm support, also to avoid cracking. Use as little mix water as possible - only enough to wet the cement particles, but keep damp topside while curing as said.

    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Tolga, Qld
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    54

    Default

    Hi JB.
    Have made a lot of pavers for walkways. Used 65 x 50 angle iron to make up frames so the pavers are 65 thick. I use GP cement and pre-mix which works out at 1:2:3 (coment, sand aggregate). As Joe says, make the mix as dry as possible while still workable to get right in the corners. I lift the frames off after 24 hours and leave pavers to cure for at least a week keeping damp under a tarp. Then stack them until used. Have had no problems with cracking or breaking once I got the amount of water right. In order to get the frames off easily I made the frames 10 mm oversize and line them with plastic garden edging very lightly oiled with el-cheapo engine oil and they are a doddle to lift straight off.

    Bill

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Sunshine Coast, Qld
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    david, auto, joe, feral, thanks. No reo, dry mix, keep damp, leave a week; should be right now.
    Rusty

  11. #10
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    Jan 2007
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    Melbourne
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    This is very interesting, would this be a lot cheaper than buying them?. I guess you can also paint them to your required taste.

  12. #11
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    Aug 2003
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    Pambula
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    I've been making them whenever I have half a barrow or so left over. The pre-mix I use is $80 per metre and a bag of cement is what, $6? So, yeah, I reckon it would be heaps cheaper than buying them.

    I use these round cardboard lids as the mould - only one paver per mould and then they're no good. I've got heaps of them off drums that my old man gets chlorine tablets in.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  13. #12
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    Re. painting them. I don't think I'd paint them but there are some options for colouring. There is oxide that you can add to off-white cement. Or you can get the colouring that is used for stenciling - comes in a lot of colours. Mine are concrete colour
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentC View Post
    Re. painting them. I don't think I'd paint them but there are some options for colouring. There is oxide that you can add to off-white cement. Or you can get the colouring that is used for stenciling - comes in a lot of colours. Mine are concrete colour
    Yeah that's the terminology i was thinking of not actual paint, paint, sorry i'm still learning the terms. Is it possible for anyone to post a pic, least that way i know how they can look as i'm tipping my 1st ones will look like a sloppy cake .

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Tallahassee FL USA
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    Like silent says, they're a great use for leftover mix, in contrast to wasting it. That brings the cost down close to zero.

    If you want to get fancy, cast them face-down on a damp sand bed, with pebbles, seashells, pieces of tile etc., partially embedded in the sand. Brush off the sand after de-molding next day, then keep damp as said. Such work can cost a king's ransom at the artsy-crafty shops.

    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Perth, W.A
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    144

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by want2learn View Post
    This is very interesting, would this be a lot cheaper than buying them?. I guess you can also paint them to your required taste.
    I'm not sure about cost but the satisfaction of making them to your own design would be a benefit. Also I guess if you had limited access to a backyard it would be beneficial to make them onsite.

    I told someone once I was gonna make some and they laughed. I'm happy to see people actually do "roll their own" so to speak.


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