Thread: I'm stuck (haven't even started).

in a year the redgum will go grey.

Paint seems to be the only solution but maybe the online brains trust can come up with something

I used treated pine sleepers for my garden make over. which is nearly finished. ( Hooray smilie.)

They are easier to cut, nail or drill and when painted blend in to the background rather then stand out.

I painted mine with the same fence paint from Bunnings as I painted the fence. Two coats are needed to get the same coverage as the fence.

BTW treated pine sleepers will last a lot longer then 10 years.


Peter.

Just a suggestion, if you have the space, rather then build a wall 0.5 m high which will require a fair bit of work and possibly fencing build it as a terraced wall of three levels each a sleeper high and plant out with ground cover plants.

Much easier and nicer to look at.


Peter.

Another thread with some very good advice re: TP retaining walls from Eastie....

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=38495

Originally Posted by Sturdee

Just a suggestion, if you have the space, rather then build a wall 0.5 m high which will require a fair bit of work and possibly fencing build it as a terraced wall of three levels each a sleeper high and plant out with ground cover plants.

Much easier and nicer to look at.

Peter.

Interesting idea, but.. no space. This is a unit, L shape backyard and part of 'L' is close to the house, 2.3 meters from the fence to the wall of the dwelling.
This retaining wall is holdig up that fence. But appr. 6 meters of this wall are visible from the main backyard entrance, so has to look nice.

Originally Posted by JDub

Another good thread with some very good advice re: TP retaining walls from Eastie....

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=38495

And why do you think I am considering pine sleepers again and started this thread? I saw your posts in that forum. Looks great. In your project.
Won't be as nice in mine - the wall IS in a way kind of a feature wall - small backyard. That's why I really want to make them look different.

Treated Pine ...Reasons to be cheerful
1. Can get them 75mm thick so your circular saw will cut through them in one go instead of having to do 2 cuts.
2. Have you picked up a 200 x 100 HW sleeper by yourself?
3. They are guaranteed 40 years... new HW you may get 5 if your lucky.
4. No need to predrill your spikes
5. You can stain them to look like anything you want.

You said you were considering pine or HW but it seems that you already have made up your mind. Why come here and ask for suggestions only to belittle someone who has gone to the trouble of responding.

Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

You said you were considering pine or HW but it seems that you already have made up your mind.

I haven't! And JDub's pics made me think that pine sleepers can be installed nicely and look great!

Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Why come here and ask for suggestions only to belittle someone who has gone to the trouble of responding.

I am sorry I came across this way. Never attempted to belittle anyone here. Sorry.

In fact, this lunch break I went to 2 timber shops. Got 2 quotes for 11x3 = 33 meters of slepers plus galvinezed H and C columns. $490 in one place and $560 other.
And it's 75mm one. @$7 per l/m. Is this right price.
The posts are $35 meter.

Did I apologize?

Likewise Sorry LeoAu, I have obviously misread your response.
My apologies.

My Calcs
Assuming a straight wall no steps using 75 x 150 sleepers, av. retail cost
11m / 2.4 = 5 sleepers long
0.5m / .150 = 4 ie 3 upright + 1 capping =20 sleepers @ $16 = $320.00
If you go 500 in ground you need 6 posts of 1m posts @$35 = $210
6 bags of concrete mix = $70

Total $590 or $107/sq.m Plus labour, deliver, GST.

PS Steel uprights on such a low wall is pobably an overkill using sleepers would save $160 bringing the cost of the wall to $78/sq.m

Steel uprights is an overkill? But I liked them so much in JDub's pics.

Capping - what do you mean? How? I mean provided I am using steel posts, how will the capping be attached to the wall?

If i understood correctly - it'll be like a bench, right? Couple of screws into the wall sleeper?
Thanks for your input!

Originally Posted by LeoAU

Steel uprights is an overkill? But I liked them so much in JDub's pics.

Capping - what do you mean? How? I mean provided I am using steel posts, how will the capping be attached to the wall?

If i understood correctly - it'll be like a bench, right? Couple of screws into the wall sleeper?
Thanks for your input!

If you can afford the steel don't let me hold you back.
Yeh the top course is layed flat with an overhang at the front - screw them with bugle heads or just use deck spikes or 150mm gal nails.

Originally Posted by LeoAU

Steel uprights is an overkill? But I liked them so much in JDub's pics.

!

Eh? I didnt use steel uprights at all, I used the same timber for the posts as I did for the wales (200x75 H4 TP), 500mm in ground, 400 out..... I will post some new pics soon from a different angel so you get a better idea.

Mine doesnt have capping at all as it is only for around the shed....

Also I have since painted them with solaguard to protect the wall and match/blend in with the new shed........

Joel

Originally Posted by JDub

Eh? I didnt use steel uprights at all, I used the same timber for the posts as I did for the wales (200x75 H4 TP), 500mm in ground, 400 out..... I will post some new pics soon from a different angel so you get a better idea.

Mine doesnt have capping at all as it is only for around the shed....

Also I have since painted them with solaguard to protect the wall and match/blend in with the new shed........

Joel

Pictures, pictures, pictures please!!

Here's one I prepared earlier.... (the one with steel posts)

The edge capping is 140x25mm recovered ironbark flooring (not finished as yet - will finish with some cabots exterior clear or the like). It makes a nice seat or rest. I simply used bugle head screws and went one screw centre of board / centre of sleeper / centre of bay. So long as your top row of sleepers is cut to fit tight (if using steel) or otherwise well secured this method is solid, neat and works well. If you don;t want a screw head showing you could use a battern along the rear of the wall and secure from below, but it's more work, more material.

To get neat joins on the edge capping I use a straight halving joint, that way if one adjoining board sits higher it can be pulled down by the mating board (not real clear in the pic's, but very simple). I might put some wax on the screw heads and then cover in black tinted builders bog one day, but they look ok as is for now.

A few other comments on construction are linked in one of the posts above. I originally had the plan of covering the bottom wall in mini-orb (top will evenually be obscured by vines, herbs, chillies and other plants), but have since come to my senses and realised it's only a wall.....